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2007 Norge: Is the ECU or dash the culprit

You can "register" your keys with the new dash, I'm not sure if more than one key is required to do this but since I have 2 keys it was not an issue for me.

In the dash go to menu and then diagnosis, you'll come up to an option for changing keys. The instructions are pretty straightforward from there using the dash prompts. You'll need to enter the code at least once during the process but then the dash will know your keys and you won't need to enter the code every time.
 
Bisbonian said:
You can "register" your keys with the new dash,
Click to expand...

Yes, but to do this, you need to know the existing user code. I'm assuming that 2veloce has tried 00000 and 28315 as possible user codes, as the former is the original default code, and the latter is the service code often adopted as a user code.

I believe the user code can be reset if you have access to the Axone, Navigator or PADS factory diagnostics units. Any Moto Guzzi service shops should have one of these.
 
kiwi dave said:
Bisbonian said:
You can "register" your keys with the new dash,
Click to expand...

Yes, but to do this, you need to know the existing user code. I'm assuming that 2veloce has tried 00000 and 28315 as possible user codes, as the former is the original default code, and the latter is the service code often adopted as a user code.

I believe the user code can be reset if you have access to the Axone, Navigator or PADS factory diagnostics units. Any Moto Guzzi service shops should have one of these.
Click to expand...

He already knows the user code, he says he is entering it upon every start. Since he has that then he should be able to make the dash learn his keys as well.
 
Bisbonian said:
kiwi dave said:
Bisbonian said:
You can "register" your keys with the new dash,
Click to expand...

Yes, but to do this, you need to know the existing user code. I'm assuming that 2veloce has tried 00000 and 28315 as possible user codes, as the former is the original default code, and the latter is the service code often adopted as a user code.

I believe the user code can be reset if you have access to the Axone, Navigator or PADS factory diagnostics units. Any Moto Guzzi service shops should have one of these.
Click to expand...

He already knows the user code, he says he is entering it upon every start. Since he has that then he should be able to make the dash learn his keys as well.
Click to expand...


The reason the Ebay seller sold the dash for only $40 is that something is wrong with the memory circuit and it will not remember the key's transponder signal. Nevertheless, it worked well enough for testing. I now know the original dash is bad and needs repairing. Based on report from Bisbonian. I'll ship the original dash off to CARMO for repair.

In my previous post, I reported that I can now the dash ABS light is 'ON' so this confirms there must be some problem. Just to refresh everyone's memory, my ABS pump will run continuously, even when the ignition key is 'OFF'. The only way to stop the pump is to pull the 40 amp fuse. So here's the next mystery I need to solve: What can possibly cause the ABS pump to run all the time? :?
 
Guz5 said:
Maybe a dicky ABS relay?
Click to expand...

As far as I can determine, there is no accessible relay for the ABS pump. I think the relay is integrated in the ABS unit.
 
2veloce said:
Guz5 said:
Maybe a dicky ABS relay?
Click to expand...

As far as I can determine, there is no accessible relay for the ABS pump. I think the relay is integrated in the ABS unit.
Click to expand...


Dash ABS light is constant 'ON'. Just to refresh everyone's memory, my ABS pump runs continuously even with the ignition key in the 'OFF' position. The only way to stop the pump is to pull the 40 amp fuse for the ABS or disconnect the ground wire leading from the pump to the battery (-).

So here's the next mystery to solve: What can possibly cause the ABS pump to run all the time? Who's the super sleuth out there? Or, is it a no-brainer and I've got a bad pump? Any diagnostic tips will be thoroughly administered and appreciated.
 
2veloce said:
2veloce said:
Guz5 said:
Maybe a dicky ABS relay?
Click to expand...

As far as I can determine, there is no accessible relay for the ABS pump. I think the relay is integrated in the ABS unit.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Looks like the ABS pump is fed from the ignition relay, and appears to be the only item fed from this relay. (See Carl Alison's schematics). If the pump is running when the ignition is off, then this relay may be faulty.

Or perhaps someone has jerked around with the wiring? Just making stabs in the dark.
 
Looks like the ABS pump is fed from the ignition relay, and appears to be the only item fed from this relay. (See Carl Alison's schematics). If the pump is running when the ignition is off, then this relay may be faulty.

Or perhaps someone has jerked around with the wiring? Just making stabs in the dark.[/quote]


Kiwi: I'm no electrical whiz but I don't see where the ignition relay feeds the ABS pump. Did I miss something? Also, when the ignition key is "OFF" everything else is 'off' also so I've got my doubts the issue is the the ignition relay.

Here's an update on the $40 dash: I reported earlier that all dash functions worked. Unfortunately, that statement was based on firing up the bike in the shop.However, I just took the bike out for a 20 mile ride little while ago and immediately noticed I did not have a speedo. How disappointing. The good news is all other functions do work and indeed I have lights, signals, tach, and idiot lights.

After returning, I immediately engaged the dash's diagnostics menu to see what was active. More good news: the only dashboard error is "01" which corresponds to what the Ebay seller told me about the dash not remembering key codes(and he reason he sold the dash for $40).

Still more good news. checking for ECU errors, I only see 56 is active. So maybe, just maybe the ECU is 'OK'.

I've read elsewhere that ECU error 56 refers to the 'speed sensor'. Now here's the questions folks: as reported several times, my ABS pump runs continuously (ever with the key off). 1) It is possible for a bad speed sensor cause the ABS pump to run continuously? 2) does this ECU error 56 refer to the front speed sensor or the rear ? 3) how do you check/determine if indeed the sensor is bad?
 
This all points to a faulty ABS wheel sensor. I thought it used the front wheel one, but cannot prove it. To be certain you would have to find someone with the kit to do diagnostics on the ABS unit.
 
if you look at the wiring diagram you will see both wheel sensor are directly connected to the abs unit, and then there is a input from the abs unit to the dash.....So it could be either sensor...but that is the error 56 and why you have no speedo..

If you follow the wiring diagram from the 40 amp abs fuse to the abs unit we see that it directly wired to the battery...so there has to be some sort of internal relay in t he abs unit that turn the pump on and it stuck in the on position...If the dash or the ecu where sending out a signal to turn on the pump it would stop when u turned the key off...

take it to a shop with the tool to check it,,,,I betting on a faulty abs unit,,,,

since it was jumped started a number of time,sounds makes me wonder if someone hooked up cables backwards and fried a bunch of stuff...

Dan
 
Re: 2007 Norge: the dash is the culprit

Wistrick said:
if you look at the wiring diagram you will see both wheel sensor are directly connected to the abs unit, and then there is a input from the abs unit to the dash.....So it could be either sensor...but that is the error 56 and why you have no speedo..

If you follow the wiring diagram from the 40 amp abs fuse to the abs unit we see that it directly wired to the battery...so there has to be some sort of internal relay in t he abs unit that turn the pump on and it stuck in the on position...If the dash or the ecu where sending out a signal to turn on the pump it would stop when u turned the key off...

take it to a shop with the tool to check it,,,,I betting on a faulty abs unit,,,,

since it was jumped started a number of time,sounds makes me wonder if someone hooked up cables backwards and fried a bunch of stuff...

Dan
Click to expand...

I've thought the ABS was fried for quite a while but privately was hoping some tech-head out there might offer a different answer or fix. And, after talking to Tyler at Module Master it seems ABS module failure is the logical conclusion. The fact the $40 dash worked confirms the ECU is OK and even though the diagnostics indicate an issue with the front speed sensor.

So, let's back up and look at my original question and post: 'To buy or not to buy". This pristine condition 2007 Norge has less than 7000 miles. The seller has offered me the bike to me for $4500 and said he will reimburse me for any money I spend to fix the bike. At this point, I've found the dash can be repaired for less than $450, the ABS can be repaired for less than $200 and I've spent $155 for new battery, brake fluid and some fuses. OK, I might need a front ABS-speed sensor too. So anyway you look at it, I'm back to the $4500 price but I'm also pretty sure he will take $4000. And, based on what I read and learned in the Wildgoose and GuzziTech forums plus what I've experienced riding the bike, I'd say the answer is a definite "YES"...this will be a heck of a good buy!
 
Only you can decide what it is worth to you. At that price you could do better to buy the bike then part it out.
 
Again, did you verify the VIN# against the range that had problematic oil pumps? The price is fair outside of catastrophic engine failure. Norge 2V'ers have problematic stepper motor/idle control, and no start/wiring issues... all resolvable. The Norge is a solid bike otherwise.
 
GT-Rx® said:
Again, did you verify the VIN# against the range that had problematic oil pumps? The price is fair outside of catastrophic engine failure. Norge 2V'ers have problematic stepper motor/idle control, and no start/wiring issues... all resolvable. The Norge is a solid bike otherwise.
Click to expand...

Woops! Being totally new to the land of Guzzi I was not aware of potential oil pump failure. After seeing your post and doing some checking my March '07 manufactured, VIN M113059 could be suspect. My excitement for this bike is waning.
 
Oil pump failure, in the way that the Guzzi one fails does not have to mean total engine replacement.
Just look for the warning signs of the oil light staying on. If it ever does, pull the timing cover off and have a look. You do have to remove the pump to see the problem - the outer rotor can break up.
Replacement cost in the UK was just over 200 GBP.
 
I've got #112994 with 50000 miles and pump ok so far. I know this doesn't nessesarily mean it'll not crap out the next time I start it but If the pump thing bothers you just pre-emptively replace it.

Peter
 
You can check the pump if you feel the need. On my broken one the rotor was quite a loose fit on the shaft, and I am certain that the axial free play in this assembly caused the outer rotor to break up. On the new replacement pump, the rotor was very tight on the shaft.
If your pump has a loose fitting inner rotor then think about replacing it.
 
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