• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2016 V7R Lt. and Rt. Horn's Inoperative

Kondour

Kondour

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Rohnert Park, California
Hi Everyone,

Asking for opinion and help with a specific issue on a 16 V7R that has 750 Miles on it since March. I have ran into an issue where the horns wont sound off. I have checked voltage at spade connectors on Lt. horn since this was one that I had removed since performing the 600 mile service myself. I have no voltage at spade terminals at Lt. horn. I've disassembled the handlebar cluster to see if water, debris, broken wire. To no avail everything looks good. Horn checked for resistance, has low resistance, doubt it would be the horn.
Possibilities, Switch, bad ground?

Any thoughts, suggestions would be welcome.

Derek
 
why not try by putting 12 volts directly to the horn, disconnect the terminals and put some patch wires directly from the horn to the battery, you only need to touch them on and you will know one way or the other if the horn itself is faulty
 
Thank you for your reply. I will try that and limit known good components to the bad. Looking through wiring diagram it appears to be a pretty simple setup.
 
I have discovered the horns are indeed functional by attaching 12v to Lt. And Rt. Horns. I'm still not getting 12v to the horns through associated wiring harness/spade connectors at horns.

Does v7II use a relay for the horns? If so where is it? 15A fuse is good.

Any other thoughts suggestions welcome.
 
Mystery solved. Took apart switch cluster to find 16awg white wire solder broken on switch. Soldered wire back to switch and horns operational.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top