• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2021 V7 850 Valve adjustment TDC issue

WillyPete

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 17, 2023
Messages
3
Location
Pensacola, FL
Hey y'all,

I haven't found anyone with the same issue but I'm having trouble moving my pistons to TDC. I've taken out the spark plugs and put it in high gear. I rotate the wheel as I've seen others do but my pistons don't seem to budge at all

I'd greatly appreciate any insight anybody has

Thanks,

Will
 
So are you saying the wheel turns but the engine doesn't, you are rotating the rear wheel?, sorry couldn't resist. Are you in a false neutral. On my Breva there is a bolt at the front of the engine which makes it easy to turn the engine over, I'm not sure on the makeup of the V7 engine. FYI even in a high gear it requires a bit of muscle to turn the engine and make sure you turn the wheel in the correct direction.
 
Just saw your other post. It appears you don't have a center stand to lift the rear wheel. How are you getting the wheel off the ground?
 
Hey all, thanks for the replies.

Long story short, I was able to get the pistons moving and the valves adjusted.

To answer some of the comments, I had the bike jacked up, I had the bike in gear.

When I would try rotating the wheel it would travel about 3-4 inches and then stop, making a clunking sound but no movement in the pistons.

I decided to keep cycling between 5th and 6th gear a few times while rotating the tire, as V700Steve and John had mentioned, and it started to turn how it should. Definitely a user error and not the bike.

Thanks everyone for the help

-Will
 
Related with this topic , it is recommended to turn back wheel till any object inserted from plug hole reaches its highest position, you have to catch the point just before it starts descending, not a sensitive way of doing the job for unexperienced newbies( well,l know dealers are for it). Searched and found no info, is there a tool that properly fits plug hole and objectively shows the TDC for my 2022 V7 850 ?
 
Use a straw to get TDC, it has to be on the compression stroke. If you go too far you can always go back and then repeat the operation. You'll soon get the feel of it. I made a tool to get TDC from an old spark plug after removing the ceramic insulator, the bike in question had a plug right over the top of the piston. I think the V7 is in the side so it wouldn't work in this case.
 
I have a timing rod that was in the toolkit of a Jawa 350 twin I bought years ago. It works well on vertical plug heads but less so on those with an angle. On my Guzzi I use one of those small green dowel rods that support young plants as they grow. Less likely to bend than a straw, strong enough not to break if one is hamfisted. I prefer having a timing bung like the big blocks where you can line up the timing marks for each cylinder but rotating the rear wheel with the bike in gear works well enough. You do need to be sure that you are working on the right stroke (firing), not the exhaust stroke. If the bike runs fine before starting you’ll know if you have the right stroke because both valves will have clearance. The job is a bit fiddly but it just needs patience.
 
Sorry -correction - adjust at tdc at the end of compression stroke/ beginning of firing stroke, not at tdc at the end of exhaust/beginning of induction.
 
Yes, that’s how the workshop manual says to do it and is what I do on my V7 850. TBH I have always found valve clearance adjustment straight forward. It’s probably a matter of confidence more than anything, though have my been on forums for many years some apparently still try to set clearances on the wrong stroke….
 
There is a very simple way to confirm you are on the compression stroke.

As Steve says above, you can watch the intake valve open as the piston drops and close as the piston rises to TDC.

HOWEVER, you can confirm this is the situation by wiggling each valve rocker arm. At TDC, both valves will be fully closed and there will be a gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem. You should be able to move the rocker arm a tiny bit on both the intake and the exhaust valves.

If you find one side to loose with wiggle and the other tight as can be, you are not on TDC Compression stroke.
 
Back
Top