As reported elsewhere on this form (Oil change) I elected to change the oil at 6,000 miles (5,000 miles after the first dealer service @900). My Nav reached 7,500 miles so I completed the remaining service items per the MG service manual (attached), checking every box and documenting with photographs...just in case.
Just thought to share a couple of observations for those intending to undertake their own servicing.
Spark plugs
Removal requires a metric 14mm spark plug socket (in the US they are available at AutoZone $8.99, for a 14 & 18mm socket, 14mm is not sold separately). The OEM spec'd NGK plug middle electrode is iridium tipped. I have used NGK Iridium plugs on all my motorcycles that have plugs under the tank - and never checked them until 18-24K, I just changed them (or had them changed) when pulling the tank for valve checks. They have never been an issue. Nonetheless, I pulled them per the manual. Picture below.
They looked fine, I didn't even brass wire brush them. The gap was between 0.65-0.7mm. The NGK factory spec is 0.7mm. In the MG service manual under removal & check sparks plugs it states 0.7mm, in the aggregated tables of specifications it states 0.8mm. I left them be and re-inserted them. The gap on iridium's shouldn't be adjusted AFAIK, due to the possibility of damaging the tip.
Based on the NGK specs for iridium plug life and my experience of other iridium plugs I will probably not bother with this interim check in future, unless the performance of the motor suggests otherwise. I will simply change them at the valve check interval (15K).
Air filter
Changing an air-filter at 7,500-miles is atypical in my opinion, unless riding in a dusty environment. They are expensive @ $70, but I had one on hand and changed it to preserve the warranty credentials. However, as the photo exhibits below it didn't seem necessary, a couple of flies and tapped out pollen ('tis the season here in VA)...but generally clean. I did insert the new filter.
The air box underneath was oil free. The throttle butterflies are visible (the LHS requires a mirror to view) and were spotless. Once past warranty I will be changing the filter every 15K, which is more typical, unless the performance of the motor suggests otherwise.
To get the airbox cover and the inner frame out, move them slightly forward, then tilt up from the rear. The screws holding these parts in place are very coarse thread self-tappers into the plastic airbox, so snug them down but be careful not to over torque them.
Alternator Belt
An alternator belt should easily outlast the 15k replacement interval, but it is worth checking IMO (even after the warranty lapses). The V100 belt is very short, so it sees the pulleys a lot, and if road debris found its way in there it could damage the belt. It is not easy to see... from the RHS above the three-point engine mounting bracket. I checked in a couple of random spots where the belt stopped after turning over the motor.
Coolant Level
Is easy to see, but not so easy to take a photo for the record, unless well illuminated.
The boundary is also visible with underlighting.
The level was the same as day 1 and is just below the 'minimum' mark. The difference between max and min doesn't appear to be very great and not knowing the brand of coolant used at the factory I am not keen to add fluid from a different manufacturer (even if it is pink OAT), so have left it alone and will continue to check it periodically. Once the brand is known I will maintain it closer to maximum.
I have not had coolant issues others have reported.
All other visual checks OK, photo documented.
Cheers.
T2
Just thought to share a couple of observations for those intending to undertake their own servicing.
Spark plugs
Removal requires a metric 14mm spark plug socket (in the US they are available at AutoZone $8.99, for a 14 & 18mm socket, 14mm is not sold separately). The OEM spec'd NGK plug middle electrode is iridium tipped. I have used NGK Iridium plugs on all my motorcycles that have plugs under the tank - and never checked them until 18-24K, I just changed them (or had them changed) when pulling the tank for valve checks. They have never been an issue. Nonetheless, I pulled them per the manual. Picture below.
They looked fine, I didn't even brass wire brush them. The gap was between 0.65-0.7mm. The NGK factory spec is 0.7mm. In the MG service manual under removal & check sparks plugs it states 0.7mm, in the aggregated tables of specifications it states 0.8mm. I left them be and re-inserted them. The gap on iridium's shouldn't be adjusted AFAIK, due to the possibility of damaging the tip.
Based on the NGK specs for iridium plug life and my experience of other iridium plugs I will probably not bother with this interim check in future, unless the performance of the motor suggests otherwise. I will simply change them at the valve check interval (15K).
Air filter
Changing an air-filter at 7,500-miles is atypical in my opinion, unless riding in a dusty environment. They are expensive @ $70, but I had one on hand and changed it to preserve the warranty credentials. However, as the photo exhibits below it didn't seem necessary, a couple of flies and tapped out pollen ('tis the season here in VA)...but generally clean. I did insert the new filter.
The air box underneath was oil free. The throttle butterflies are visible (the LHS requires a mirror to view) and were spotless. Once past warranty I will be changing the filter every 15K, which is more typical, unless the performance of the motor suggests otherwise.
To get the airbox cover and the inner frame out, move them slightly forward, then tilt up from the rear. The screws holding these parts in place are very coarse thread self-tappers into the plastic airbox, so snug them down but be careful not to over torque them.
Alternator Belt
An alternator belt should easily outlast the 15k replacement interval, but it is worth checking IMO (even after the warranty lapses). The V100 belt is very short, so it sees the pulleys a lot, and if road debris found its way in there it could damage the belt. It is not easy to see... from the RHS above the three-point engine mounting bracket. I checked in a couple of random spots where the belt stopped after turning over the motor.
Coolant Level
Is easy to see, but not so easy to take a photo for the record, unless well illuminated.
The boundary is also visible with underlighting.
The level was the same as day 1 and is just below the 'minimum' mark. The difference between max and min doesn't appear to be very great and not knowing the brand of coolant used at the factory I am not keen to add fluid from a different manufacturer (even if it is pink OAT), so have left it alone and will continue to check it periodically. Once the brand is known I will maintain it closer to maximum.
I have not had coolant issues others have reported.
All other visual checks OK, photo documented.
Cheers.
T2
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