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'74 850-T rear drive pinion bearings lube

R

rickyD

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 6, 2009
Messages
7
Hello all,

What type lube is best for the rear drive pinion gear bearings on my '74 850-T and how to get it in there. Do they get lubricated separately from the final drive fluid?
Also, does anyone have a source for the front brake rotor bolts and lock washers? I'm guessing those little push-up tabs are discontinued.

thanks
 
The pinion bearing is lubricated by the oil in the rear drive. Have you tried a dealer for the wheel parts? They may still be available. If the tabs are NLA, use schnorr washers.
 
Hey RickyD,

I use Olander for fasteners. They are local (Sunnyvale Ca.) but may have shipping available. I use stainless and am happy with the results. Give em a call.. They usually have it all:

http://www.olander.com/

I use Schnorr washers instead of the lock tabs. I buy the washers 100 at a time. A bag of 6mm, a bag of 8mm, and a bag of 10mm Schnorr's lasts a while and works for most things Guzzi.

https://www.fastenersclearinghouse....BED952614;&Cat2=FL3D97D240254;&Cat5=M8&Cat7=;

When I replace a group of bolts, I typically use socket head bolts as replacements. I don't kno0w why but I like the appearance.

On the disc rotor I also use stainless lock nuts with nylon inserts. Nice and secure, lasts a long time. I buy those 20 at a time. 8mm is used a lot on Guzzi.

I have found that buying in bulk saves time and money in the long run. The bolts for the brake rotors, in stainless, is pricey if I recall correctly. $6 or so a bolt... I don't buy those in bulk... :whistle:


Good luck,

Alex
 
MG did not use washers for the rotor bolts on subsequent models like the SP & G-5. They use an all metal lock nut. It has a flat side, a spherical side and a mildly eliptical opening on the dome side. I think they are one time use. I found these at Maryland Metrics http://mdmetric.com/ I'm sure they are not that hard to find elsewhere. Also MG has not used stainless bolts for the rotors.

Generally, I look at what MG has done with a particular fastener to see if they have used SS. Grade 8.8 is used for the rotor bolts, I suspect, because SS is about 25% weaker. MG Cycle used to have a kit.

Alex, thanks for the CA sources of bolts. I've searched before but did not find these outfits.
 
The lock washers or lock nuts do work well & I use them. If you want or need to stay original the lock tabs are available thru mgcycle.com #14615902 @ $3.44 ea.

If you want to convert the drum to disc let me know. I have a complete T3 & would be open to trading the disc setup for a drum unit. Just so you know: You would have to fabricate/weld a tab to mount the master cylinder & would lose the side tool boxes/covers. I have everything IE: brake & shift pedals, linkage, brake hoses, splitter for front & rear, caliper, disc etc..... Even have an xtra T3 frame if you want to keep riding while you get this one set up.
 
Thank you so much for all the help guys and I hope I can pick your collective brains once more. I was hoping that those pinion bearings were somehow lubricated separately and that I just overlooked it when I had the rear drive off last summer.
You see my problem is the rear drive gets hot after maybe a 1/2 hour or so of riding. Hot enough that I can't keep my hand on it for more than an instant. I first noticed this last summer and can't recall ever having noticed it previously. I've had the bike since '78 and with the exception of about 5 or 10 years of inactivity the bike has been pretty much ridden yearly. Probably over 100K on it.
The rear drive has been drained and refilled yearly with Castrol 80/90 and the specified amount of Moly lube and its never been opened up.
Is a hot box normal or is it time for a rebuild?
Hope someone can help. Thanks
 
Hot box is normal. There is quite a bit of head build up. For various reasons I have stopped using Moly in rear drives. I won't go into my rant again. The box will run cooler with a good synthetic gear oil and don't add moly. My preference is Mobil 1 75W90, but other quality synthetics are out there.
 
I've have used synthetics since the mid 70's in a lot of motorcycle/automotive/industrial applications with excellent results. Next oil change how about using a new or really clean black pan with a magnet in the bottom. Like panning for gold except you're looking for silver & hoping not to strike.
 
Again, much thanks for the help and the suggestions. I'm glad to know I can ride a little easier now. Man, that goose just keeps going and going (knock wood).
 
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