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Are you willing to share the details of your setup ?
As you only have one unit to sell, and there are likely more than one of us interested ?
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Adding a tachometer to a V7 III Stone.
- Thread starterGTM®
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- tachometer
Are you willing to share the details of your setup ?
As you only have one unit to sell, and there are likely more than one of us interested ?
Bert Remington I am another punter interested but I am in Spain so shipping issues as a prototyper. I am very willing to chip in a contribution to make the trial though.
Louisv97
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I'll take a leap of faith, see where it goes, and hopefully we have some success
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Nice !
So you're going to pick up the one he has
- if it worked for him it should work for you !Then *we*can start building Kits - I'll be you're Canadian Distributor !
Louisv97
Cruisin' Guzzisti
tried sending you a PM. you're profile is limited.
Apologies for delay responding. I just finished up installing the smart turn system which cancels turn signal operation based on motorcycle motion: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Turn-System-automatic-cancelling/dp/B06XD71KSW. And tomorrow I'm finishing the smart brake module installation which flashes the Amber LEDs (clear center portion) in the combo light: https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/all-products/products/gt-motocycles-v7-iii-tail-tidy-kit.
But enough bragging.
The MG tachometer needs CANbus High and Low; Ground; Fuse D Power (Always-On) and Fuse C Power (Ignition-On).
The Speedhut tachometer needs CANbus High and Low; Ground; Ignition-On Power; and Headlight-On Power.
The MG BlueDash/MGMP connector provides CANbus High and Low; Ground; Fuse B Ignition-On Power; and K-Line Diagnostic Signal.
So four wires from BlueDash connector to Speedhust connector, MG didn't do Day/Night backlighting because motorcycle headlights are always on and neither am I. But you can easily add an SPST I-O -> H-O switch on the Speedhut end to showoff Speedhut's fancy illumination features.
I have a collection of design notes that I will tidy up and post tomorrow. It will include part numbers, pinouts, etc.
Meanwhile Louis97 asked first so please go to the Speedhut website, configure the tachometer of your dreams and send me that configuration. I'll buy it, demonstrate it, and be a hero or a goat.
Assuming I'm a hero, the connectors aren't that expensive and I have the tools (which kinda are). I think I have four connectors left so I have an idea...
Oh yeah, that smart brake system -- yep no MG wires cut but installation ain't for the faint-hearted or fumble-fingered. The smart brake module is much less complicated but you have to remove the rear fender to replace the wiring harness. And when you remove the saddle on my motorcycle to change the air filter, get diagnostics, etc you won't see anything that isn't original. But if you take the side covers off it is busy! But patting myself on the back I think tidy. YMMV.
More tomorrow.
But enough bragging.
The MG tachometer needs CANbus High and Low; Ground; Fuse D Power (Always-On) and Fuse C Power (Ignition-On).
The Speedhut tachometer needs CANbus High and Low; Ground; Ignition-On Power; and Headlight-On Power.
The MG BlueDash/MGMP connector provides CANbus High and Low; Ground; Fuse B Ignition-On Power; and K-Line Diagnostic Signal.
So four wires from BlueDash connector to Speedhust connector, MG didn't do Day/Night backlighting because motorcycle headlights are always on and neither am I. But you can easily add an SPST I-O -> H-O switch on the Speedhut end to showoff Speedhut's fancy illumination features.
I have a collection of design notes that I will tidy up and post tomorrow. It will include part numbers, pinouts, etc.
Meanwhile Louis97 asked first so please go to the Speedhut website, configure the tachometer of your dreams and send me that configuration. I'll buy it, demonstrate it, and be a hero or a goat.
Assuming I'm a hero, the connectors aren't that expensive and I have the tools (which kinda are). I think I have four connectors left so I have an idea...
Oh yeah, that smart brake system -- yep no MG wires cut but installation ain't for the faint-hearted or fumble-fingered. The smart brake module is much less complicated but you have to remove the rear fender to replace the wiring harness. And when you remove the saddle on my motorcycle to change the air filter, get diagnostics, etc you won't see anything that isn't original. But if you take the side covers off it is busy! But patting myself on the back I think tidy. YMMV.
More tomorrow.
Attachments
Vagrant
GT Reference
I thought you were selling the V7?
Louisv97
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Is about to.
I'm trying to trade my 2019 V7 III Stone in Rosso Rovente 3K miles towards a Can-Am Spyder F3, 2015 or later. Apparently the Can-Am Spyder market is active in SouthWest so no luck so far. I have an H&H handlebar fairing (used for EV) arriving shortly and if I can mount it maybe that's my San Diego -- Valley Center freeway commute solution.
Wilco. BTW I'm Robert Calland who sent you the takeoff brake caliper and valve covers to replace with Carbon Dark Red versions.
Vagrant
GT Reference
My buddies spyder touring version is I think a 2017-18. his brake light is constantly on because of the awkward position. not sure if was 2019 or 20 where they fixed it.
FYI Tucson dealer will burry you if trumped up fees!
FYI Tucson dealer will burry you if trumped up fees!
I still don't have the finished design for everyone's consideration because I'm tired from modifying my V7 and of course it's taking longer than expected (just finished heated vest today along with non-wiring-taps harness for the smart brake module). Maybe I can finish tail section and put the tank back on tomorrow.
But enough about me.
I checked my inventory and I have four BlueDash connectors with pins and seals (BTW not an Amazon item).
I haven't been able to download the SpeedHut install documentation but I'm pretty sure it's five wires. And I think for ease-of-installation, flexibility, etc reasons there should be another connector near the SpeedHut tachometer. MG basically uses two types of connectors: the white ones with exposed terminals and the black and gray ones with sealed terminals. The open connectors are generally used for non-mission-critical 12V- or Ground-switched circuits such as lighting, outside temperature, etc. The sealed connectors are used for mission-critical circuits of a signal nature. This is not a hard rule as MG modernizes its electrical system but close enough for me.
The tachometer is driven from the CANbus and that is mission-critical as demonstrated by MG's used of sealed connectors.
So inserting a second connector in the BlueDash-to-Tachometer circuit requires a sealed connector to ensure the CANbus is protected from moisture, etc.
I often use the black connectors MG uses for the diagnostic connector, USB power, etc because the SCTA roadster requires high currents as well as protection. But the five pins SpeedHut requires makes for a HUGE junction. The gray Deutch-style lower-current connectors are smaller so I'm going to Amazon-order a set. Five terminal connectors aren't available so I will use the six terminal configuration.
The MG CANbus is sensitive to noise (P1607 and other codes), probably because it isn't properly terminated. I couldn't find my ferrite chokes (probably in Valley Center) so am ordering more from Amazon. One will go on the BlueDash end, maybe another on the SpeedHut end.
SpeedHut says their "Freedom" tachometer must be the only device on the CANbus -- so much for multi-device bus freedom. Actually I suspect this means only their tachometer on their branch of the CANbus but just in case I'll be ready to add the CANbus 120 ohm termination resistors (which I know are in Valley Center).
That's it for now.
But enough about me.
I checked my inventory and I have four BlueDash connectors with pins and seals (BTW not an Amazon item).
I haven't been able to download the SpeedHut install documentation but I'm pretty sure it's five wires. And I think for ease-of-installation, flexibility, etc reasons there should be another connector near the SpeedHut tachometer. MG basically uses two types of connectors: the white ones with exposed terminals and the black and gray ones with sealed terminals. The open connectors are generally used for non-mission-critical 12V- or Ground-switched circuits such as lighting, outside temperature, etc. The sealed connectors are used for mission-critical circuits of a signal nature. This is not a hard rule as MG modernizes its electrical system but close enough for me.
The tachometer is driven from the CANbus and that is mission-critical as demonstrated by MG's used of sealed connectors.
So inserting a second connector in the BlueDash-to-Tachometer circuit requires a sealed connector to ensure the CANbus is protected from moisture, etc.
I often use the black connectors MG uses for the diagnostic connector, USB power, etc because the SCTA roadster requires high currents as well as protection. But the five pins SpeedHut requires makes for a HUGE junction. The gray Deutch-style lower-current connectors are smaller so I'm going to Amazon-order a set. Five terminal connectors aren't available so I will use the six terminal configuration.
The MG CANbus is sensitive to noise (P1607 and other codes), probably because it isn't properly terminated. I couldn't find my ferrite chokes (probably in Valley Center) so am ordering more from Amazon. One will go on the BlueDash end, maybe another on the SpeedHut end.
SpeedHut says their "Freedom" tachometer must be the only device on the CANbus -- so much for multi-device bus freedom. Actually I suspect this means only their tachometer on their branch of the CANbus but just in case I'll be ready to add the CANbus 120 ohm termination resistors (which I know are in Valley Center).
That's it for now.
These are my current wiring plans. I will order the Deutsch connectors and ferrite chokes in a day or two.
MG BlueDash Connector 51 (Gray, 8-terminals, 5 populated)
1 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
2 -- Ground [Blu]
3 -- X4 CAN High Line [Pur]
4 -- X3 CAN Low Line [Gry]
Details:
(1) the SpeedHut side connector is Sumitomo 8-way TS 025 Receptacle Kit Toyota 90980-12519
(2) all wires 24AWG inside PET sleeving sealed with adhesive shrink wrap
(3) the CANbus wires will be twisted pair 2 turns per inch
(4) a ferrite choke will enclose the PET sleeving for EMI reduction
(5) the right-hand side cover and fuel tank must be removed for cable installation
Deutsch Tachometer Connector (Gray, 6 terminals, 6 populated)
1 -- X4 CAN High Line [Pur]
2 -- X3 CAN Low Line [Gry]
3 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
4 -- Ground [Blu]
5 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
6 -- Ground [Blu]
Details:
(1) terminals 5 and 6 provided for add-on Headlight-On (Nightime) switch
(2) on the SpeedHut side, two 3ft wires will be provided for add-on switch
SpeedHut Tachometer Wire Assignments
CAN Cable Red -- CAN High Line
CAN Cable Blk -- CAN Low Line
Lighting Cable Blk -- Ground
Lighting Cable Red -- Ignition-On
Lighting Cable Wht -- Headlight-On (Nightime gauge face)
Details:
(1) all SpeedHut wires will be bundled inside PET sleeving sealed with adhesive shrink wrap
(2) the SpeedHut wires may be extended as appropriate for tidy Deutsch connector location
(3) at the Speedhut side Deutsch connector the Wht wire will be broken out for the add-on switch
(4) depending on what SpeedHut says there may be a 120ohm CANbus termination resistor embedded in the Moto Guzzi side of the Deutsch connector
MG BlueDash Connector 51 (Gray, 8-terminals, 5 populated)
1 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
2 -- Ground [Blu]
3 -- X4 CAN High Line [Pur]
4 -- X3 CAN Low Line [Gry]
Details:
(1) the SpeedHut side connector is Sumitomo 8-way TS 025 Receptacle Kit Toyota 90980-12519
(2) all wires 24AWG inside PET sleeving sealed with adhesive shrink wrap
(3) the CANbus wires will be twisted pair 2 turns per inch
(4) a ferrite choke will enclose the PET sleeving for EMI reduction
(5) the right-hand side cover and fuel tank must be removed for cable installation
Deutsch Tachometer Connector (Gray, 6 terminals, 6 populated)
1 -- X4 CAN High Line [Pur]
2 -- X3 CAN Low Line [Gry]
3 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
4 -- Ground [Blu]
5 -- Ignition-On via 15A Fuse B [Org]
6 -- Ground [Blu]
Details:
(1) terminals 5 and 6 provided for add-on Headlight-On (Nightime) switch
(2) on the SpeedHut side, two 3ft wires will be provided for add-on switch
SpeedHut Tachometer Wire Assignments
CAN Cable Red -- CAN High Line
CAN Cable Blk -- CAN Low Line
Lighting Cable Blk -- Ground
Lighting Cable Red -- Ignition-On
Lighting Cable Wht -- Headlight-On (Nightime gauge face)
Details:
(1) all SpeedHut wires will be bundled inside PET sleeving sealed with adhesive shrink wrap
(2) the SpeedHut wires may be extended as appropriate for tidy Deutsch connector location
(3) at the Speedhut side Deutsch connector the Wht wire will be broken out for the add-on switch
(4) depending on what SpeedHut says there may be a 120ohm CANbus termination resistor embedded in the Moto Guzzi side of the Deutsch connector
Garth Weston
Just got it firing!
Hi
Sorry for the late reply. The v7 has a separate coil for each cylinder so you need a tach for a single cylinder bike, thats why I ordered the 8hz unit instead of the 16hz unit that work on most Japanese or Harley twins where even if you have 2 coils they still fire together.
Louisv97
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I was going to be the guinea pig for this. I haven't heard back from Bert in a couple months. Hope he's doing alright.
Just did this to my 2019 V7 III Stone and it worked great. Purchased a like new used complete tach/KPH speedo dash from Italy for less than buying new parts, swapped out the KPH speedo for my MPH speedo and it looks and works as if stock. If anyone needs a KPH speedo in as new condition, let me know.
Gtista