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Alternator belt replacement

scottmastrocinque said:
You do understand that the factory replacement interval is specified as required at 50k km, right?

To go further than this is to invite sudden belt failure which is never a pretty thing.

Your logic is as flawed as saying “I changed the oil 15k miles ago and it’s still between the min and max marks on the dipstick…” :eek:

Maintenance by crisis, is that your grand plan?

You are flirting with disaster.
Click to expand...
First off there is no reason to be rude. Perhaps it was a poor choice to put "Yet..." but I thought it was funny. Just because I have not pulled my engine in accordance with the shop manual to replace a belt, that I have looked at with a bore scope does not mean I don't change my oil. Maintenance by crisis is not my plan. Neither is replacing a belt with no sign of needing it. Yes I have a bore scope and have looked at the belt several times. There is more to doing maintenance on a machine than blindly following a check list. Learn how it works (Maybe even go to a school for it, like I have) inspect it, use your experience to decide if something needs to be done. This winter I will be changing both tires, and doing the 80K maintenance. Now that I am back in Maine where the winter is longer I will most likely replace the belt during this round of maintenance, Since I have to put the bike up on my lift anyway, and I will be wanting to spend time with my bike even though I cant ride it due to snow levels. By the way I have been a mechanic, and doing my own maintenance since about 1980. No disasters yet.
 
I am sorry you interpreted my post the way you did however I was not trying to be rude. I was just being direct and to the point. Again, I’m sorry. I wasn’t trying to hurt your feelings or be mean to you.

It’s written in my signature:

“Lifelong Moto Guzzi and European motorcycle and scooter addict. Very direct and to the point individual. Non-personal non-verbal internet communication bewilders me. Never trying to be mean or insulting. Genuinely love helping people here on GuzziTech and I believe in this place. Far from perfect. Professional motorcycle mechanic. Will do my very best to help you on things that I know. “

That being said…

What you were implying as normal, was in fact unwise, dangerous and very risky and has no valid basis in reality and I did not garner any humor in your writing.

I also saw no intention or indication on your part to replace the belt at any point because you say it looks fine. (I could only assume that you would run it until failure.). Appearances can be deceiving.

This isn’t a social media forum of bad information and opinions not based in reality, and it certainly is not the place for anecdotal nonchalant answers which somebody who might be relying on for valid information, reads your post.

It is never intelligent or wise or anything other than foolish to exceed a component specified service life. It never turns out well in the long run.

A ruptured alternator belt isn’t a pretty or simple thing to repair and it’s most definitely not a side of the road repair.

Why one would want to risk such an ugly event simply because one decided it wasn’t important to change the belt on schedule solely based upon that they looked at the belt and it looks fine?

In other Moto Guzzi motorcycle belt situations, like on a 4V belt driven V10 Centauro or Daytona RS, allowing the belt to exceed its service life, greatly increases risk of failure, and that will destroy the engine if it breaks while running. I’ve seen it several times firsthand.

The oil reference was not an accusation but rather an analogy; a similarity between like features of two things, on which a comparison may be based.

It was intended to drive home the absurdity of what you were implying and that it was not an ok thing to do, even if the belt “looked fine”.

I’m sorry, but it is not good practice or intelligent maintenance protocol.

Service life specifications on a Moto Guzzi motorcycle are very few, but the ones that exist, should be strictly followed to prevent major or even catastrophic failures.

As a mechanic, (as you say you are) you above all people, should know this.

In my very busy commercial motorcycle workshop, I take it very seriously to give my customers solid, valid, information and Todd (GTM) does the same thing here and in his workshop.

Accuracy of information, matters.

Again, this is not about what you have done out of the ordinary on your own and managed to dodge a bullet. It’s about compiling and dissemination good, solid, reliable information to Guzzisti who come here looking for real answers and help.

What you wrote, met none of those standards.

That is why I wrote what I did. Granted, it was not candy coated because it was intentionally written and intended to shoot down what you wrote so that others who do not know better, would not be pulled into thinking that it was a good idea.

Visual inspection has its time and place, but stipulated service life intervals on critical components, need to be heeded and respected if long trouble-free life of your motorcycle is to be expected.

All I can say is that I am glad that my aircraft mechanic doesn’t think like you…

“TBO, humph… - What’s a few hundred more hours on it…Propeller looks fine…”

I have no desire to experience that failure either.
 
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Moto-Uno said:
I love the expression "maintenance by crisis" , ( you mean like fixing something that broke) . Peter
Click to expand...

Maintenance by crisis occurs when this principle is ignored:

scottmastrocinque said:
Service life specifications on a Moto Guzzi motorcycle are few, but the ones that exist, should be followed to prevent major failures or even catastrophic failures.
Click to expand...
 
Belt changed, job was not bad at all. Didn't need to take the whole thing apart either and did not cut anything. You can get at it in place just need be able to work in tight spaces. The grooved belt was a little worn but was not as bad as a V belt would have been. Again I did not say ignore the maintenance requirement Just that I had not been able to get to getting it done yet. Do I recommend waiting as long as I did F&*K no.
 
All's well that ends well! Congratulations on a successful repair.

Next week I have to practice what I preach as my Piaggio MP3 is 1400 miles past the 10,000 mile drive belt change but in my defense, the parts just arrived after waiting weeks.

Given the ridiculous cost of gas lately, I just couldn't not ride my scooter that gets 80 mpg! :D
 
^^ I'd like to see a video of your handy work . As previously mentioned I had to replace the alternator on my 2018
Eldorado and it was quite the task ( around 10 hrs) . I'm very used to working in tight spaces on motorcycles ( 40+yrs).
So if I ever have to go in there again ( I find it easy to rack up the miles on this bike :) ) , I'd love to see the short cuts
you were able to make to cut the time way down . Peter
 
I did not shoot video while conducting the Maintenance. I may start, my wife said I should start a Vlog on Youtube called "Gettin shit done with Bubba" Before I get into how it is done, I want to be very clear that this procedure is NOT mine. I was instructed on how to do this as I did it by Jim Hamlin, the owner and operator of Hamlin Cycles in Bethel CT. All credit and accolades go to him. I did not find this difficult. and it took about 4 hrs.
  1. Remove the fuel tank, this will require removing the silver tank cover and the plastic body parts including the center piece above the horns.
2. Remove 8mm bolt that holds front brake line bracket to the bracket above the horns

3. Remove "Demand valve" it is where the frame comes together under the ignition switch. Forward of the valves original position in a socket head "Top hat bolt" loosen but do not remove this bolt yet.

4. Remove the zip-ties holding the wires to a plastic piece fitted into the corner of the frame on the right side, and remove the plastic part. It covers the alternator tension adjuster/jam-nut.

5. Remove “Crash Bars” and remove the bolts from the bracket the “Crash Bars” are bolted to.

6. Remove the horns, and oil-cooler (Don't forget the connector that powers the fan)

7. Remove the three socket head cap screws from the “Y” shaped bracket that is bolted to the engine mount just below where the brake lines were bolted to same engine mount.

8. Remove the “Y” bracket

9. Remove three socket head cap screws holding a silver round mount behind the bracket where the “Y” bracket was. They are accessible through holes in the bracket. The silver mount will be removable by moving straight down.

10. Finish removing the “Top Hat bolt” from step 3.

11. Remove the “Dog Bone” mount. This will allow the bracket that was bolted to the engine on both the left and right side (Crash bars were bolted to this) to be shifted up and down and slightly forward. Take a few minutes to wiggle it back and forth and up and down to get the hang of moving it around.

12. Remove the 6 socket head cap screws holding the alternator belt cover on. This will allow the cover to be shifted but not removed giving access to the belt and the pivot bolt with nut.

13. Loosen up the the 13mm (I think) bolt with nut on the back side. On the left side of the of the alternator. This will allow the alternator to pivot.

14. Count the threads exposed on the adjuster/jam nut. Located on the right side of the engine behind where the triangular plastic piece removes in step 4.

15. Back off the jam nut and loosen the tensioner. The alternator may need to be wiggled before it it moves.

16. Look at the front where the adjuster and alternator meets. Remove the bolt and “Collar” from the passage. This will allow the alternator to move another 0.5”.

17. The belt is now loose. Position the bracket and alternator belt cover so the larger gap is at the top. Push the belt forward at the top and turn the belt so that it pops off the lower pulley.

18. Insert the new belt from the side/top and push down on one side as you lift up on the other causing the belt to rotate until it engages the lower pulley properly. Loop belt over alternator pulley.

19. Reinstall the bolt and “Collar” removed in 16. And tighten the tension adjuster until the same number threads are exposed and tighten the Jam nut.

20. Reassemble motorbike, Since the Oil cooler was removed I recommend changing the oil/filter at the same time.

If you have questions please ask.
 
Outstanding contribution to the knowledge base here at GuzziTech!

Well done and thank you!
 
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