And on to the electrics

[haventaclue]

On this bike, half the loom is missing, I tried with the generic loom, that did not go well, in that I couldn't make head nor tail of it. The colours didn't match, no molex blocks would match except for the new control switches.
So I decided to make up one, incorporating the old loom. New fuse box, relays, flasher unit and a bunch of molex blocks I'm going to give it a go.
I have the loom for the alternator, rectifier and regulator. I have looked, magnified, zoomed in but can't figure where these two wires do or go, one green, one red with bullet connectors. Could someone please enlighten my fried brain and eyes

 

[john zibell]

With and account upgrade, you can get the schematic in the downloads section. Also without seeing the origin of the wires can't tell what they are. See;

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[haventaclue]

Already donated 16th Dec
Those two wires, under the brake pipe connection, thought I had arrowed them, are coming from or going to the alternator . I'm guessing the red is from the battery, having bother with the green, can't see it on the wiring diagram that I have.

 

[Paul Brice]

Although red & green go down to the 'alternator area', they are nothing to do with the alternator, (just run inside same heat shield sleeve) so you won't find them on the wiring diagram near the alternator/rectifier etc. They come from the ignition points (actually connect to the condenser blocks) & go to the coils - shown here where V = green & R = Red.

 

[Paul Brice]

Here is pic of connection at points block (red spade is off but you can see green in place). Note: The 12V supply for this ignition circuit is the White (BI) that comes from the 'infamous' rubbish routing of the ignition feed through the RHS switchgear to the coil common +12V. From the coil common feed, the LT switching is done to earth at the points breaker plate......I've re-routed this (and many other circuits) through new relays to improve reliability.

 

[Adamigo]

Hold on, mate. I got V50III loom, probably mostly complete. This is after 1982 probably, so not sure if this would fit you, but here it is, I got no plans about it. Can make some pics and investigate how complete it is.

 

[haventaclue]

Although red & green go down to the 'alternator area', they are nothing to do with the alternator, (just run inside same heat shield sleeve) so you won't find them on the wiring diagram near the alternator/rectifier etc. They come from the ignition points (actually connect to the condenser blocks) & go to the coils - shown here where V = green & R = Red.
View attachment 39117

Thank you, this is what I needed. You're a scholar and a gentleman.

 

[haventaclue]

Hold on, mate. I got V50III loom, probably mostly complete. This is after 1982 probably, so not sure if this would fit you, but here it is, I got no plans about it. Can make some pics and investigate how complete it is.

I have spent over five hours today building a loom, I'm beginning to hate molex blocks and their fiddly connections, and trying to follow a wiring diagram that I can hardly make out the letters on. I'll run it past my friend, his baby, but we're moving along..........slowly. Not touching it again until next week. What have you on it?

 

[haventaclue]

Here is pic of connection at points block (red spade is off but you can see green in place). Note: The 12V supply for this ignition circuit is the White (BI) that comes from the 'infamous' rubbish routing of the ignition feed through the RHS switchgear to the coil common +12V. From the coil common feed, the LT switching is done to earth at the points breaker plate......I've re-routed this (and many other circuits) through new relays to improve reliability.

View attachment 39118

I think I'll take a leaf out of your book and add another relay for the coils.

 

[john zibell]

I think I'll take a leaf out of your book and add another relay for the coils.

The less you route power through the ignition switch, the better. Guzzi didn't really start using relays well until the development of the CARC bikes. All other models pass too much current through the ignition switch.

 

[haventaclue]

In need of more help.
Aftermarket multi switch cluster, horn, headlights, indicators, nine wire, orange and light blue wires are indicators, grey wire is power from from flasher. Black is grounded to frame, good ground.
Took 12v+ from fuse box to + on flasher unit and live from there to grey wire turn signal, from there to indicators. When switched to left or right, both indicators will make one bright flash and then dim down. No more flashing.
Flasher unit is working as I tested it by taking the 12v+ from the flasher to lights and had both indicators flashing at the same time.
Could someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong. Or possible bad or grounding contact inside the cluster unit?
I have searched the forum and followed the wiring diagram.

 

[Paul Brice]

It would be useful to know what switch you have & what colours the wires from it are (I have lots of Domino & Domino copy diagrams)....plus are you fitting it yourself now, or is it already fitted ??.

Anyway, I've fitted two sets of aftermarket switchgear & in both cases (Chinese Copy & Domino europe) , unlike the OEM switchgear which takes horn live through switch and to earth , they don't support any wire that runs straight to ground/Earth (so you need to change horn circuit layout) - Green wire is common 12V feed into the switch..... I

 

[Paul Brice]

Here's Domino wiring guide that shows GREEN as common 12V foir lights & horn and BLACK/BLUE as 12V live for indicators from repeater unit

 

[Paul Brice]

Here's Chinese copy equivalent...same basic idea

 

[haventaclue]

Thanks for the diagrams but the one I have is different. I have nine wires, yellow, blue and white are the headlight. Orange, grey and light blue are the indicators. Light green = horn, black = ground and a dark green for a led pilot light.

 

[Paul Brice]

Ok....good luck chasing it though !

 

[haventaclue]

This is a long shot . I think it's earthing out somewhere, is it possible that the metal flasher unit cable tied to the frame is leaking current to the frame? Not going to be back at it until next month. Haven't got around to getting the rubber band for it yet

 

[Paul Brice]

Hmmm...but you said it all works fine if you bypass the LHS switchgear - that doesn't suggest it's an earth fault in the flasher unit; more likely a problem in the LHS swithgear (or wiring going in/out to same) ?? Personally I think it's the LED light function in the switchgear that's freaking out the (not LED compliant) flasher unit.....that's first place I'd look & your testing suggests that's the problem.

 

[dbarale]

I don’t know this particular unit but, what is the ground for?
Typically the only thing possibly using a ground would be the horn that receives a constant positive where the ground is controlled by the switch.

EDIT: never mind, I had missed the LED.

 

[dbarale]

So, a couple more questions.
Is the LED for the turn signals, or the hi/lo beams?
Are you using stock incandescent bulbs in the turn signals? Or LED?
When you say both signals are on, do you mean right and left (all four) or both front and rear on either side?