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Battery life new V100?

scottmastrocinque said:
Thank you very much.

I sure hope so! I want to fall madly back in love with this drop dead gorgeous motorcycle!
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I wish you a happy V100 life after this 😉
And I still think the new V100 generation holds up well in general.
Regarding the TFT display, which is shared within Piaggiogroup with late generations of Aprilias etc, there seems to be a bad batch of displays.
My few cents on that is that it could be a component shortage issue, late in the period of Covid and a ship stuck in the Suez channel.
The pcb’s might suffer from bad second grade components which the factory was unlucky to source in desperation.
Other than that, the V100 niggles generally rounds up to coolant hose clamps which could be tightened or replaced, and some screws and bolts that needs to be tightened.
 
Oh believe me, mine has had EVERY repair, recall, campaign, everything.

In 1100 total miles since brand new, she has been in the service department 8 times. 😩

Nothing else better go wrong with this motorcycle. Enough has already! 🤯
 
Just riding her to breakfast again, this motorcycle just impresses the hell out of me.

I want so much to trust it. Time will tell.

Also, I've been waiting for her to straighten out and fly right, so I can make the videos of the installation of every accessory I have for this bike.

She hasn't been very cooperative but she says she'll behave from now on! 😆🤞🙏
 
Tebax said:
Yeah, disasppoinning with modern tech.
Crap tech in this respect.
Last winter the battery on my previous bike (Triumph Sprint RS) died as well.
But it was a lithium battery, and I did charge it twice during winter with the C-TEK charger, although not constantly charged as I alternated with a second old bike.
That’s ~ 5 months period before the real bike season starts again.
But I guess the bike stood without charge two or three months.
Lithium batteries don’t come cheap…and that battery wasn’t more than a year old.
Sold the Triumph to a buddy when I got the V100, but supplied him with a brand new lithium battery for the good sake.

Lesson for my buddy and I is to use correct charger, or disconnect the battery.
My buddy reported that he disconnected the battery a short while ago.
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I just invested in a decent Noco Genius 5 charger.
Both powerful enough for recharging deep drained batteries and capable for AGM and Lithium Ion.
Still hadn’t disposed the old Lithium battery from last spring.
The one that was almost at 0V…!
Still 0V actually.
Just as an experiment I connected it to the Noco charger with the Lithium mode.
Look and behold, no refusal from the charger, no fault light lid.
It seemed that it actually started charging, and the measured voltage after 15 minutes or so said 12…something Volt.
Plus the built in battery tester (three diodes, low/medium/full) said it was useably charged again.
Checking this morning it was at around 13,9V, and was obviously charged so I disconnected the charger.
And this evening I checked the voltage again as a follow up, and the reading is now 13,5V.

I would never expect it to be recharged again!
Wonder if is really reliable to use again, a bit skeptical tbh.

Well, tomorrow an old drained std battery will be the next experiment for the Noco charger.
Wonder if it can work magic here too?

IMG_1079.webp
 
Second update:

I gave the lithium battery 3 top up more.
Voltage shortly afterwards read 14,3V, but have now settled to 14,1V.
So I would say this battery is at least reasonably recovered. 🙂

Regarding the old std lead battery, it has got several charging cycles over the last days.
It both seemed to regain decent health and not, but I’m still not convinced about if all battery poles have been recovered to a decent health.
But for every charging attempt it seem to be a little bit better.
I mean, it can be charged to 13,4V directly after a charging attempt, but falls back to close right under 12V.
But for every attempt it seems to improve.
Now after a few hours after the latest charging the voltage read 12,6V, which is actually OK.
The capacity of the battery is another story though, I have no possibility to load test it.
But it has never been a goal to save it for use again, it is already replaced anyway.
Mind the battery has sat drained with 0V for three years!!! 👍
This has been a test of the Noco charger, and I’ll say it works great for both standard battery as well as for lithium!
Not just worked great, rather exceeded all expectations!
 
Our friend Mike B here sent me a note that he had a struggle charging his battery. One of the battery terminal leads had broken, and has been replaced under warranty. His bike has had an engine replacement, so hard to say if caused by the swap, but worthy of a post here.
 
I measured parasitic losses at the battery today, just out of curiosity.

OFF, NO KEY 33 milliamps

OFF, KEY IN 65 milliamps, removed clamp after about 4 mins

KEY ON, 6.81 amps

Then KEY OFF ~45 milliamps, for a while

So, at 33 ma x 24 hrs x 7 days =5.54 amp-hours, almost half of battery rated amp hours.

I encourage other riders here to submit anything they have measured in milliamps at the battery.

So use a battery maintainer!
 
Tebax said:
Second update:

I gave the lithium battery 3 top up more.
Voltage shortly afterwards read 14,3V, but have now settled to 14,1V.
So I would say this battery is at least reasonably recovered. 🙂

Regarding the old std lead battery, it has got several charging cycles over the last days.
It both seemed to regain decent health and not, but I’m still not convinced about if all battery poles have been recovered to a decent health.
But for every charging attempt it seem to be a little bit better.
I mean, it can be charged to 13,4V directly after a charging attempt, but falls back to close right under 12V.
But for every attempt it seems to improve.
Now after a few hours after the latest charging the voltage read 12,6V, which is actually OK.
The capacity of the battery is another story though, I have no possibility to load test it.
But it has never been a goal to save it for use again, it is already replaced anyway.
Mind the battery has sat drained with 0V for three years!!! 👍
This has been a test of the Noco charger, and I’ll say it works great for both standard battery as well as for lithium!
Not just worked great, rather exceeded all expectations!
Click to expand...
Another happy NOCO user here. I bought the Genius 10 a few years ago in an attempt to revive a very pricey but stone dead battery in my Alfa Romeo The NOCO "repair mode" did the trick when none of my five other chargers helped. Subsequently I've used other excellent NOCO products and installed their NLP 14 battery in my V7 about 2 years back and it's going strong despite infrequent riding.
 
Hi MG Rider, I do stand to be corrected but I think your reading of 5.54 A/hr is calculated wrongly, you've calculated it for Amps/week which is 168hrs. The battery is a 12v, 12A/hr so it should be able to supply 12A for 1 hr, 33mA is nothing to a battery of this size. I do agree with the 6.8 amps with the ign "on". I almost flattened my battery in the beginning whilst setting up the phone, clock, suspension etc.
 
Kevin. Thanks for checking my work. I read your post as amps per hour, what I'm using is amps x hours.
I picked a week as some riders let the bike sit all week. So if I take your 168 hrs x .033 amps I get 5.54 amp hours, almost half of the 12ah stock battery.

Other threads I've seen similar with these electronic dash panels on other bike models.
 
Last edited:
scott_m said:
Well damn me…

My V100 can kill a brand new battery to dead in about 3-5 days. I’ve replaced 2 Yuasas and a Lithium.

I think my dashboard is exhibiting the same symptoms.

There is nothing on my bike (bone stock) and nothing else that could possibly be draining the batteries to dead.

Arrgggg.

Leaving tor a 3 week trip tomorrow so will have to deal with this when I get back.

Yet another long round trip to Cadre Cycle in Cincinnati for yet another annoying irritation with this V100.

I have ridden this thing less than 300 miles and it has been in the shop 2 times now. This will be the 3rd time.

The original owner had it in 3 times himself before he dumped it at BMW Grand Rapids on a new BMW.

I’m not happy Moto Guzzi. Not happy at all.

Way way way too many annoying issues with this darn thing. WTH?!?

If it didn’t require an all day round trip to get anything at the dealer, I wouldn’t mind so much but this is getting ridiculous.

😡🤬🤯
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Hi Scott, when was your V100 originally imported or registered? 22 or early 23 maybe?
Mine was registered in April 23, and I had it parked for 5 weeks on original battery and started perfectly.
Try dash replacement under warranty, there must be something going on in the bike.
 
scott_m said:
Update:

So picked up my V100S yesterday ftom Cadre Cycle.

As you may remember, my motorcycle was draining the batter to 0 volts in about 3-4 days maximum! It killed 2 OEM Yuasa batteries as well as a Lithium one as well.

After diagnosis, it was determined that although the TFT display was going "dark", it wasn't actually shutting down and continued to draw nearly 1 amp constant parasitic drain!

Those digital dashes are way cool but God are they power pigs!

A new dash was sent direct from the factory in Mandello del Lario via DHL. (Moto Guzzi is actually getting fairly responsive lately! 🙏)

Once installed, there was no parasitic draw by the TFT any longer after shutting off.

Yeah!!!

They also tightened the engine cases in the front and eliminated the oil leak.

🙏🙏🙏

Hopefully she will remain problem free from now on!

🤞🤞🤞
Click to expand...

Glad you fixed. V100 is a great bike once you sort out few known issues.
 
MG_Rider said:
I measured parasitic losses at the battery today, just out of curiosity.

OFF, NO KEY 33 milliamps

OFF, KEY IN 65 milliamps, removed clamp after about 4 mins

KEY ON, 6.81 amps

Then KEY OFF ~45 milliamps, for a while

So, at 33 ma x 24 hrs x 7 days =5.54 amp-hours, almost half of battery rated amp hours.

I encourage other riders here to submit anything they have measured in milliamps at the battery.

So use a battery maintainer!
Click to expand...
Thanks for these measurements. Sound like you are saying that we can cut the parasitic drain in half by just taking the key out of the ignition. I am going to try that since I have been lazy and just leave them in place on each of my bikes. It hasn't been a problem on my '71 Ambo. Progress.
 
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