nose2wind
Tuned and Synch'ed
2000 V11-S, 70,000 miles. Light is on. Could someone refresh my memory on checking the regulator output vs the alternator to determine which one is bad?
Thanks
Thanks
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Just covering their arse. AGM and Lithium batteries are very sensitive to overcharging. I also have a 2000 V11 s and due to the way it senses system voltage via the headlight circuit there is a good chance it will be overcharging the battery. If the battery is an AGM like an Odyssey then they are particularly sensitive to overcharging and will leak as mine did. The problem is there is around 1/2 to 1 volt drop in the headlight circuit which the std reg senses from compared to the actual battery voltage when the headlights are switched on. This causes the reg to think the system voltage is low so it starts charging at 15volts or more which kills the battery after a while.Voltage Regulator bad. On that subject: Euro Moto Electrics has a disclaimer that voids warranty and doesn't recommend there regulators for use with Odyssey or Lithium Batteries. Any idea why this would be? I'm going to contact them and report back
Upstream doesn't matter John, when the lights are turned on there is a voltage drop in the circuit due to the inadequate size of the wiring and then the reg thinks the battery voltage is low. Its a known issue.It may be a moot point & I could have it wrong but from what I have seen by a quick glance at the wiring diagram, the voltage sensing is taken from the "headlight relay" but that relay is a misnomer. It is energized the entire time the ignition is on and the starter is not, it supplies power for most of the lights (brakes, tail and headlight)
It would appear that the sensing is taken upstream of the lights and switches so the headlight no matter if on or off should not affect it. However, what Phil states still holds good to a degree, as there will be some loss through the relay which will get worse with age. Running a separate line is definitely a good idea.
I do wonder if I am missing something as I've heard this stated several times about the headlight affecting the sensing, but unless the diagram is different from the reality, I for the life of me cannot see it.
John
Upstream doesn't matter John, when the lights are turned on there is a voltage drop in the circuit due to the inadequate size of the wiring and then the reg thinks the battery voltage is low. Its a known issue.
Ciao
Exactly John, and fit the mini relays (same as the std control ones under the seat) inside the headlight shell as I and others have done.Ok Thanks Phil, thinking about I can see how this might happen, if the wiring is sized too small up to the sensing line take off, then the current pulled would cause a volts drop along the cable up to the sensing point which would cause the effect you describe.
What I would be tempted to do is to use 2 relays which are switched from the Lo and Hi beam bar switch. That's a good deal more work but would relieve the current pull on the "Headlight Relay" and also the current passing through the bar switch.
That way you'd kill 3 birds with one stone
Let the sensing line see a more representative value of the battery voltage
Reduce the current through the bar switch and hence increase its life
Reduce the volts drop to the headlight resulting in brighter beams
John