Guzzis aren't very waterproof, and you live close enough to the ocean, covered or not, that it will take some constant attention in time as things start to age. Dave at SCP will take care of you as needed I'm sure.
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Bike won’t start
- Thread starterdududuckling
- Start date
dududuckling
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Good to know! There have been few occassions in the past few weeks when I ride in the rain, or park my bike at the office all day drenched in the rain (but it still starts and rides OK). Hopefully more sunny days coming up.
Are there things I can do to waterproof the bike, other than not riding in the rain?
Everytime I went to Dave to check on things like clutch lever, front brake feels squishy, or too much throttle play, he said "it's pretty normal..."
I guess I just keep on riding.
kiwi dave
GT Reference
Everytime I went to Dave to check on things like clutch lever, front brake feels squishy, or too much throttle play, he said "it's pretty normal..."
Dave's a great guy! I've had work done there in the past. There would be others that would pamper you, fart around, and charge accordingly. Count your blessings!
My VIII wont start either. Different symptoms but maybe same diagnosis, battery?
Battery voltage = 12.4x Volts
Turn key on, everything powers up.
Neutral light on.
Engine cranks just 1/2 second. No other clicking.
Neutral light goes out.
Kickstand up.
Faint click (relay?) but no crank.
Fussing with gear lever to get neutral light back on, mixed results. Neutral light has mind of it's own. But can confirm neutral by rolling bike.
Sometimes leaning the bike back onto side stand will get the light to come on but still no luck starting.
Engine doesn't even try the 1/2 second crank thing again unless I turn the key off and back on.
Attach jump starter battery pack to battery- same results. I can't even jump start it?
Battery voltage = 12.4x Volts
Turn key on, everything powers up.
Neutral light on.
Engine cranks just 1/2 second. No other clicking.
Neutral light goes out.
Kickstand up.
Faint click (relay?) but no crank.
Fussing with gear lever to get neutral light back on, mixed results. Neutral light has mind of it's own. But can confirm neutral by rolling bike.
Sometimes leaning the bike back onto side stand will get the light to come on but still no luck starting.
Engine doesn't even try the 1/2 second crank thing again unless I turn the key off and back on.
Attach jump starter battery pack to battery- same results. I can't even jump start it?
12.4 volts is actually pretty low for a standard 12 volt battery, especially for a 12 volt AGM battery. You should be upwards of 12.8 volts, it is a small difference, but details like that matter.
The system will detect low voltage and abort.
I have seen where a battery was bad and you could not even jump start it with the bad battery connected, it simply ate up all the voltage.
If you hold the clutch in, the neutral light should not matter.
It sounds like your battery is toast. Possibly you can save it by putting it on a charger, but I would replace it with a quality battery.
You can measure the voltage while you are trying to start the bike. But at 12.4 volts I would replace the battery unless it will take and hold a charge (it should show 12.8 volts fully charged, and stay there).
Todd likes Lithium batteries, I like AGMs.
Other than what Mike posted on above, check the battery leads for tightness and grounds for corrosion. That said 12.4 is on the low side. You can certainly try a trickle charger, but that tends to mask a failing battery... then you’ll get stranded when you least expect it. Stock battery life is pretty short these days.
dududuckling
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Just some update... the bike has been great. So what I may have noticed (insisting on the word may and from my own observation):
I roll the bike backward before attempting to hit the start button. Ignition key to ON, engine switch to ON, kickstand UP, squeeze clutch lever, kick the bike backward out of the driveway, come to a complete standstill / semi-rolling backward a bit, hit the start button - this is when it is slow when starting up.
But if I do not roll the bike in the first place, or roll it forward a bit instead of backward, it starts right away.
Again, it could be nothing and I'm probably just imagining things.
Either way, the bike works great except a couple of weak start, which I'm used to - if I ride for a bit, turn off for gas or snacks for 5-10 minutes, start it up - it may start "weak" like its going to stall, but it will start... squeeze the throttle and its all good. Dave said its normal, so its normal lol
I roll the bike backward before attempting to hit the start button. Ignition key to ON, engine switch to ON, kickstand UP, squeeze clutch lever, kick the bike backward out of the driveway, come to a complete standstill / semi-rolling backward a bit, hit the start button - this is when it is slow when starting up.
But if I do not roll the bike in the first place, or roll it forward a bit instead of backward, it starts right away.
Again, it could be nothing and I'm probably just imagining things.
Either way, the bike works great except a couple of weak start, which I'm used to - if I ride for a bit, turn off for gas or snacks for 5-10 minutes, start it up - it may start "weak" like its going to stall, but it will start... squeeze the throttle and its all good. Dave said its normal, so its normal lol
With key on, if the headlight is on, you are consuming battery power. Once you turn on the key and the ECU does it check, start the darn thing. Stop playing around.
tikimatic
Tuned and Synch'ed
Hello,
I finally could get my bike out of its winter storage state. The battery is freshly fully charged (via charger at home) and just installed. And I have this :
gear on neutral, I tried once with clutch lever up too, engine emergency switch off (double checked that one).
Basically starter does this nasty sound, dashboard lights flickers and everything seem to reset, engine light goes red.
I would have said maybe battery issue but the battery is pretty new (from last year), was stored inside during winter and regularly charged up during winter.
Any idea what that could be ?
I finally could get my bike out of its winter storage state. The battery is freshly fully charged (via charger at home) and just installed. And I have this :
gear on neutral, I tried once with clutch lever up too, engine emergency switch off (double checked that one).
Basically starter does this nasty sound, dashboard lights flickers and everything seem to reset, engine light goes red.
I would have said maybe battery issue but the battery is pretty new (from last year), was stored inside during winter and regularly charged up during winter.
Any idea what that could be ?
Last edited:
That sounds like the solenoid chattering, usually the symptom of a flat battery, the solenoid pulls in and then the starter tries to spin, it draws a lot of current and there is not enough to hold the solenoid in so it drops out and the cycle starts over again. Of course it could also be bad electrical connections but looking at the way the dials reset I reckon you have a knackered battery
tikimatic
Tuned and Synch'ed
I agree with you, it really feels like flat battery. I just don't get how the battery could be flat as it's pretty new, was stored inside during winter and was (according to the auto charger) fully charged. I'll look into the connections with solenoid if something looks disconnected there and maybe invest in a lithium battery.
But thanks for your input as what you say kinda reassure me that it can possibly be just the battery and not something more expensive.
But thanks for your input as what you say kinda reassure me that it can possibly be just the battery and not something more expensive.
Can you "jumper " a car battery across yours
tikimatic
Tuned and Synch'ed
So I can do the classic jumpstart a car with another car but between a car and the bike ? If so I'll need to ask a friend with a car and jumper cables but that's a good idea to pin down the issue on the battery or connections or eventually something else.
tikimatic
Tuned and Synch'ed
The battery was in charge for a few hours (charger Optimate4 indicated battery OK after the test cycle). With a multi-meter I have 12.56V with battery not connected. And 12.11V with the battery connected to the bike with bike ON.
This is what happens :
This is what happens :
12.56 is still low, but it does seem to be starting. It sounds like it only fires on one cylinder, but it is hard to tell from a video.
By the way, you can jump start a motorcycle from a car, but unlike when jump starting a car from another car when you are trying to jump a motorcycle from a car I recommend NOT starting the car first. Just use the battery power from the car, not the battery power and the charging system from the car.
By the way, you can jump start a motorcycle from a car, but unlike when jump starting a car from another car when you are trying to jump a motorcycle from a car I recommend NOT starting the car first. Just use the battery power from the car, not the battery power and the charging system from the car.
tikimatic
Tuned and Synch'ed
I tested with jump cables. Here is the result :
Notice how the trrrtrrrtrrrtrrr is more powerfull now. But it won't start. Doesn't that show that the battery is not the issue but it's something else (and costly ?
)
Notice how the trrrtrrrtrrrtrrr is more powerfull now. But it won't start. Doesn't that show that the battery is not the issue but it's something else (and costly ?
)
Wisconsin v7 Racer
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I had similar problems with my riding lawnmower last year. Battery showed fully charged and good with battery tender. It had no. Cranking amps and was difficult to jump start with my pickup running. And the battery in my bike when it failed had same symptoms as my lawnmower battery. A new battery solved both my problems. You can have the battery tested at a auto parts store or it could possibly be under warranty where you bought the battery.