BNS12 Dash Repair

[john zibell]

$$$$$

Scott, not enough dollar signs.

 

[Vili]

Finally!!! The dashboard was fixed thanks to NPS!

NPS send me a spare LCD, it finally arrived today, I've replaced it and here's the result.



I really have no words to describe NPSs kindness. Thousand thanks once more!

 

[Lovey]

G'day all,
I have had a half assed attempt at opening up the dash (before reading the linked post), with no luck so far. I've also just noticed a crack in the clear screen and I'll need to replace that while I've got the dash opened. Can anyone tell me what is that cover made of please?
Many thanks,
Steve

 

[Vili]

G'day all,
I have had a half assed attempt at opening up the dash (before reading the linked post), with no luck so far. I've also just noticed a crack in the clear screen and I'll need to replace that while I've got the dash opened. Can anyone tell me what is that cover made of please?
Many thanks,
Steve

It's made from plastic, if you're asking for the clear cover of the dash.

 

[Lovey]

It's made from plastic, if you're asking for the clear cover of the dash.

Thanks Vilim,
Yes that's the part I was talking about. I've since done a bit of searching and apparently its called a bezel. Is anyone able to tell the thickness of this part please?
That's again,
Steve.

 

[Gazdok]

Good post Todd.

When I had my troubles, before re-assembly, I removed all the rubber seals that were in my dash. I found that without the seals, there is plenty of airflow to disperse any condensation, which I would get regularly and now get none.

I also didn't bother cutting the extra drain holes. I thought not doing this would cause the dash to fill on the inside for sure, but no. I've ridden in torrential rain, washed the old girl with the hose on full and not a drop gets in.

I have had it apart for a look since and it all looks good. One thing I did do is spray both sides of the circuit board with a circuit board sealer so no further damage can occur if it is damp.

Just my experience. I'm not saying I'm right.

regards

Robert

Hello Rob,

I have condensation in my clocks which are starting to leave marks on the inside of the glass. I like your idea of removing the seals for better ventilation. DId you remove ALL the seals or put any back in at a later stage?
Do you live in a very dry part of Australia? I.E. not much rain at all. Just wondering how I would fair WITH rain in England.

And how easy is it to get into the clocks?
Which circuit board sealer did you use?

 

[tris]

Hello Rob,

I have condensation in my clocks which are starting to leave marks on the inside of the glass. I like your idea of removing the seals for better ventilation. Didd you remove ALL the seals or put any back in at a later stage?
Do you live in a very dry part of Australia? I.E. not much rain at all. Just wondering how I would fair WITH rain in England.

And how easy is it to get into the clocks?
Which circuit board sealer did you use?

Suck on all the vents that come out the back of the clocks and you're likely to find one blocked, I've saw it on 2 sets of clocks before the B11 got sold

I CAREFULLY stuck a drill through to open the vent up and never had a misting problem again

..... LCD still died so got a spare set to cannibalise, but no misting

 

[Roblatt]

Gazdok,

Once the dash is in pieces, I found there was foam/silicone in the channels around the perimeter of the dash as well as the rubber seal. This blocked all the air vents so I carefully picked it all clean and did away with the rubber seal. This creates a lot of airflow as I found when I re-assembled it with pieces missing (as I was test riding at the time), the clock face with all the markings flapped around inside the dash even at low speed. So it's good air flow.

I have never had an issue since.

There is plenty of info and instructions on here for dismantling the dash. One tip, when removing the gauges, I put thick-ish paper under the dials and used a fork to pull them off (roll the fork in a lever fashion). They come off straight and don't leave a mark on the dash face. On re-assembly you don't need to be too accurate as the stepper motors will ensure the gauges get to the correct positions.

I live in rural Victoria, Australia. A southern state where at the moment it's close to Zero degrees C most nights, and where I am it's a rain belt.

I found the condensation only occurred when I started the bike from cold (cold dash, add heat and it condensates). I get minor misting now but as soon as I move it disappears.

It's a good idea to dismantle the dash as I found some corrosion beginning on the back of the circuit board. I cleaned the whole lot up and sprayed it back and front with a clear coating made specially for circuit boards to stop moisture.

I hope this helps. Just reach out if you need help.

Robert

 

[Gazdok]

I thought I would have a go at cleaning the inside glass and took the dashboard off.... I did not want to be too aggressive and brave and crack anything.

How do I get into the dash in the first place? The divider moves slightly but does not come off. Where can I wedge a trim removal tool in without breaking anything?

Any hints welcome.

 

[Gazdok]

I did find a way in eventually.