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Brake bleeding issue

Sorry but pushing the pistons in does do something.
It sends the fluid in the system back to the MC, where it can be extracted using Scotts technique.
I was in no way suggesting that you shouldn't strip and rebuild calipers or replace them if needed.
However, following that, the less air that you need to get out the easier things will be.
With the caliper pistons all the way home the volume of air in the system from the MC to the caliper is reduced
Same principle applies to a simple fluid change
It might not make much difference but why not stack the cards in your favour if you're struggling?
 
The corrosion on the outer edge of your piston is not from contact with “wet” brake fluid. That portion of the piston does not normally contact brake fluid. Only the end side does.

That is surface corrosion caused by road salt in the UK most likely.

The side surfaces are exposed to the atmosphere as the pad wears and the piston must press out further to make the pad contact with the rotor.

You can mitigate this by cleaning your brakes and calipers annually with a soft brass bristle brush and 0-0-0-0 steel wool and some good spray brake cleaner. I use a removal / insertion tool, to grab the piston from the inside and rotate it 180 degrees to clean all around.

IMG_3648.jpeg


Look here:

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Rear brake.

What, if anything can be done to improve the biting power of the rear risk brake on a CARC rear end. I am using HH pads but it seems to me that the rear foot lever is too short and even on a mild down hill park I have to stand on the lever in order to stop the bike rolling. Annoying and the...
www.guzzitech.com www.guzzitech.com
 
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