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C14 - Stop the moaning whale - Tip/Evap

dennisj said:
I'm not sure why Todd recommends full tip valve removal, he didn't give a reason. I just removed the guts and snapped it back together (a hair dryer was helpful) with great results. Either solution should give the same end result.
Click to expand...

Dennis,

It's logical that as you say "Either solution should give the same end result."

I'm not qualified to guess why Todd, or anybody else, would suggest one fix over another. However; based on personal experience
I'm inclined to go along with Todds advice and suggestions. Mostly because he has so much more hands on day to day experience with all things Guzzi than I.

Considering my ham fisted ability to break anything plastic I try to disassemble, The probability I'd have to replace the valve is quite high. So for me at least, it makes sense to pick up a few barbed fittings, and a variety of clamps at the local hardware store on the way home from work, and tackle the job just once.

The still whole valve is in the large container labeled "Guzzi Parts - Cali-1400" in my garage. If I ever sell the bike the next owner has the option to take the container.
 
dennisj said:
I'm not sure why Todd recommends full tip valve removal, he didn't give a reason. I just removed the guts and snapped it back together (a hair dryer was helpful) with great results. Either solution should give the same end result.
Click to expand...

I did exactly the same thing. And I agree it will give the same result.
 
I've suggested both. Replacing the plastic valve with a metal fitting will eliminate a possible failure point down the road, off the list.
 
Did this and learned that a 1/4" barb is slightly too small (unless you use clamps on both sides to tighten) and a 3/8's is too large ... so I just removed the guts from the valve and put it back in place. I don't know how this can be done without moving the gas tank back . Just tipping it up will not give you enough room. Once I disconnected the vent tube at the filler cap, I could move the tank back.

Secure the tank down though as mine fell over and now I've got a fuel line part to buy ... aargh!! And a few scratches on the tank ... sooo pissed at myself!!!!
 
Guzzi_Lou said:
Did this and learned that a 1/4" barb is slightly too small (unless you use clamps on both sides to tighten) and a 3/8's is too large ... so I just removed the guts from the valve and put it back in place. I don't know how this can be done without moving the gas tank back . Just tipping it up will not give you enough room. Once I disconnected the vent tube at the filler cap, I could move the tank back.

Secure the tank down though as mine fell over and now I've got a fuel line part to buy ... aargh!! And a few scratches on the tank ... sooo pissed at myself!!!!
Click to expand...
I can feel your pain from here man
 
Oh you have no idea Paul :mad: ... gonna try wet sanding the scratches off followed with some polish and buffing. I should've just disconnected the fuel line and fuel pump connector cause ... well I just posted a thread on that.
 
Guzzi_Lou said:
Oh you have no idea Paul :mad: ... gonna try wet sanding the scratches off followed with some polish and buffing. I should've just disconnected the fuel line and fuel pump connector cause ... well I just posted a thread on that.
Click to expand...
Good luck with the sanding, not sure, but I would try polishing it first or is it way beyond that
 
It's pretty well beyond that ... don't want to de-rail the thread but here's a pic. I can catch my fingernail on it which means wet sanding. Could be worse I suppose.
tankscratch.webp
 
SO the bike is back together and after a 1 hr ride, no moaning noises from the bike. The bike sounds "richer" now than it did before and I don't get as much snatchiness when changing gears and then getting back on the throttle as before.
 
After further riding, I'm sure there's more torque than before .... the bike has just gone up a notch in terms of performance ... almost like a mini-tune. Recommend this even if the moaning noise doesn't bother you.

I only did the valve guts removal and plenum hole plug. Did not do the step near the bottom of Todd's instructions.

To me it's as if the fueling has gotten itself fixed a bit (from the plenum air leak being plugged no doubt). I can only imagine what Todd's full fuel solution does!
 
Guzzi_Lou said:
After further riding, I'm sure there's more torque than before .... the bike has just gone up a notch in terms of performance ... almost like a mini-tune. Recommend this even if the moaning noise doesn't bother you.

I only did the valve guts removal and plenum hole plug. Did not do the step near the bottom of Todd's instructions.

To me it's as if the fueling has gotten itself fixed a bit (from the plenum air leak being plugged no doubt). I can only imagine what Todd's full fuel solution does!
Click to expand...
I can vouch for that. I only did the plenum leak and the bike is much better at lower revs, especially with a light throttle. I guess my engine is still getting looser, but it will pull and coast at well below 2000rpm even in the higher gears.
 
2000 rpm huh? I'll have to try next time I'm out but I doubt I can do it on my bike. I do have the open airbox mod with hi-flow filter and exhaust so that may be the reason but damn does the bike rip in 1st and 2nd now if you want to! And it sounds better too doing it.
 
Guzzi_Lou said:
2000 rpm huh? I'll have to try next time I'm out but I doubt I can do it on my bike. I do have the open airbox mod with hi-flow filter and exhaust so that may be the reason but damn does the bike rip in 1st and 2nd now if you want to! And it sounds better too doing it.
Click to expand...

Sounds reasonable. My 2016 Audace has different exhausts, no airbox mod and most likely a different fuel mapping - who knows. Having said that I wouldn't open the throttle in 5th/6th at < 2000rpm, the vibes would be big especially in Veloce mode, but it does pull cleanly and without any hiccups. I can also coast down to about 1500rpm in a high gear without any unpleasantness.
 
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