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Cali EV misfire?

I've already changed all the oils, filters, and various rubber bits and once the weather picks up enough for a decent run I'll take it out for the day and run some injector cleaner through it. If it's ok after that I'll probably just balance the injectors and then move onto the cosmetic jobs and there are plenty of them to keep me busy too!
It's always baffled me a bit with some Guzzi prices that some bought in bits can be so expensive, I well remember when I was running my old Spada 1000 the regulator packed up and there was no Guzzi dealer anywhere near where I was so I went down to a car electrical place to try my luck. I took the old regulator with me and just put it on the counter and said "do you have one of these?" The guy there picked it up, looked it over, then said "No mate but I have a much better one if you want it!" It turned out that there was an Audi one that was all transistorised, did exactly the same thing with the same connectors and even fitted the same bolt holes and not only did it perform way better but it was less than a quarter of the price :D
 
My EV exhibited those exact symptoms in the first stages of electric petcock failure. Started with a minor misfire on a 50 mile ride to a Guzzi lunch. Heading home it got worse & bike finally quit about 1/2 mile from home (first time it ever left me on the side of the road).After about an hour of checking everything I could think of sitting in the median w/traffic whizzing by it suddenly started. I was able to limp/sputter it home & into the garage before it died for good. Manual petcock replacement fixed it.
Ron Komoroski
 
motresyklman said:
My EV exhibited those exact symptoms in the first stages of electric petcock failure.
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Thanks Ron, one often overlooked. I replaced all of mine the minute the manual petcock arrived on the floors, on the newer bikes. I recommend everyone running one (especially after all of this time), replace them ASAP. MGCycle.com had them last I checked for a reasonable US$.
 
Actually, the petcock for the 1993 CA III is manual. I used those as replacements for EV electronic taps.
 
Now that's worth knowing :) I must admit I've never liked the idea of the electric tap with no reserve as I've noticed the low fuel light on mine is pretty dim so would be easy to miss especially on a sunny day!
 
essexboydave said:
Now that's worth knowing :) I must admit I've never liked the idea of the electric tap with no reserve as I've noticed the low fuel light on mine is pretty dim so would be easy to miss especially on a sunny day!
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The manual ones still have no reserve. Either it is open or it is closed. Pay close attention to your trip meter. That will also give you an idea of when to re-fuel.
 
john zibell said:
essexboydave said:
Now that's worth knowing :) I must admit I've never liked the idea of the electric tap with no reserve as I've noticed the low fuel light on mine is pretty dim so would be easy to miss especially on a sunny day!
Click to expand...

The manual ones still have no reserve. Either it is open or it is closed. Pay close attention to your trip meter. That will also give you an idea of when to re-fuel.
Click to expand...

That's that idea out then! My trip meter doesn't work either, the reset knob is missing :( It has to be said that my bike was very cheap for a reason!
 
john zibell said:
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=905 So long as there is still some thread to mound it. Remember this item is reverse threaded. Usually they just vibrate off, but I've ground the lip of the stem to mount them to broken odometer reset threads.
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Cheers for that mate :) I can't see if there is any thread left on mine at the moment but I need to replace a bulb in the warning lights so I might as well take the speedo out and have a look while I'm there!
 
So I've been messing still trying to get to the bottom of what's been going on and chatting with a mate we started to wonder if it was a problem with the exhaust as the bike has always done a little bit of popping and banging on over-run, I even went to the extent of changing the pipes but it still didn't seem quite right. I pulled the plugs out to check them again and got the feeling that the left hand one didn't seem to go back in quite as far as the right and I also discovered it's not very easy to tell either! Sure enough though it seems that at some point someone has run the bike for a while with the plug only screwed part of the way down and the thread had got clogged with carbon! All sorted now though, thread cleaned out and everything back together and what a difference-it now runs far more like my old Spada 1000 did with lots more grunt :D
I still need to sort something with the mufflers though as it currently has a set of short reverse cone megas on it and they are just a touch on the loud side :shock: Got some new (and longer) ones ordered though so they should be going on next week :)
 
Glad you found the culprit. I've noticed the EV seems to do best with the stock mufflers and H pipe combination. They do need some back pressure to perform well. Aftermarket mufflers, unless specifically designed for the bike like the LaFranconi red tip, just don't seem to do well.
 
I know I can get stock mufflers for it but they are a bit out of my price range right now but I have tracked down a good pair of Dunstall Megatrons for just over £100, I'm hoping these won't be too bad as they do have baffles in and they are almost as long as stock. I do have a choice of H sections too, either the stock EV one with the long pipes that go right inside the mufflers or a much smarter stainless steel one off a Spada 1000 so I'll just see which one works best :)
Out of interest does anyone know why the EV H section has such long pipes going right into the mufflers?
 
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