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Checking oil level: the finer points of dipping

Hi,

I did an oil change yesterday and put in 1.8L oil after thoroughly removing the existing oil that was in the bike for about 2.5 years. I hadn't used the bike so I changed it and am ready to fire it up with the new battery. When i removed the old oil, i opened up the front and back drain plugs and the oil filter plug to replace the oil filter - so I think I drained everything out, unless the cold oil didn't leave fully because it moves real slow?

However, when i checked the new oil level, it was way above the max mark. I measured it cold, upright bike, and didn't screw in the cap. I know I am supposed to measure it after running the bike, but I don't want to start it without knowing what the right level is.

How should I start the bike now?
1. drain out the excess oil until I go below the max on upright bike?
2. start the bike as is and see what happens?
3. a smarter option ?

Really appreciate the response.

Also, does any one have a link to owners manual ? v7 2012 racer.

Best,
 
Ash Mhta said:
Hi,

I did an oil change yesterday and put in 1.8L oil after thoroughly removing the existing oil that was in the bike for about 2.5 years. I hadn't used the bike so I changed it and am ready to fire it up with the new battery. When i removed the old oil, i opened up the front and back drain plugs and the oil filter plug to replace the oil filter - so I think I drained everything out, unless the cold oil didn't leave fully because it moves real slow?

However, when i checked the new oil level, it was way above the max mark. I measured it cold, upright bike, and didn't screw in the cap. I know I am supposed to measure it after running the bike, but I don't want to start it without knowing what the right level is.

How should I start the bike now?
1. drain out the excess oil until I go below the max on upright bike?
2. start the bike as is and see what happens?
3. a smarter option ?

Really appreciate the response.

Also, does any one have a link to owners manual ? v7 2012 racer.

Best,
Click to expand...
I've found that Todd's recommendation of 1.6L is spot on for my bike: slightly over the min mark. Mine's a 2016 though...
 
I've been trying to wrap my head around the operation of the V85 "partial dry sump". My assumption is that while the bike is running, oil is scavenged from the sump, causing it to basically be "dry", but when the motor is stopped, oil is allowed to drain back into the sump, making it appear "wet" (and allowing the sight glass to actually be able to check the oil. If that were the case, then I would assume that a hot engine would need to sit for some amount of time to allow the oil to drain back to the sump... but, the owner's manual doesn't state that. Anyone familiar enough with the internals of these new motors that can help edify us?

__Jason
 
jwtucker said:
I've been trying to wrap my head around the operation of the V85 "partial dry sump". My assumption is that while the bike is running, oil is scavenged from the sump, causing it to basically be "dry", but when the motor is stopped, oil is allowed to drain back into the sump, making it appear "wet" (and allowing the sight glass to actually be able to check the oil. If that were the case, then I would assume that a hot engine would need to sit for some amount of time to allow the oil to drain back to the sump... but, the owner's manual doesn't state that. Anyone familiar enough with the internals of these new motors that can help edify us?
__Jason
Click to expand...
Yes... the crankshaft and base of the crankcase (oil pan) is completely isolated (separated), unlike the big block motor where it free-floats in the oil an, free to splash up to the crankshaft.
 
Thanks! Yeah, the older big blocks definitely had some issues with oil-handling, hence the desire for lots of folks to add windage plates, or (in my case) the aftermarket deep-V sump. My assumption is that the new design eliminates all that b.s., and could be why they redesigned the oil system in the first place. I've been able to suss out a bit of it based on parts diagrams and some photos of the case that I've found online, but the engineering mind in me would love to see a detailed diagram of the various oilways and galleys... just to satisfy my curiosity. For now, I'll just trust that it works :-)

__Jason
 
Ash Mhta said:
Hi,

I did an oil change yesterday and put in 1.8L oil after thoroughly removing the existing oil that was in the bike for about 2.5 years. I hadn't used the bike so I changed it and am ready to fire it up with the new battery. When i removed the old oil, i opened up the front and back drain plugs and the oil filter plug to replace the oil filter - so I think I drained everything out, unless the cold oil didn't leave fully because it moves real slow?

However, when i checked the new oil level, it was way above the max mark. I measured it cold, upright bike, and didn't screw in the cap. I know I am supposed to measure it after running the bike, but I don't want to start it without knowing what the right level is.

How should I start the bike now?
1. drain out the excess oil until I go below the max on upright bike?
2. start the bike as is and see what happens?
3. a smarter option ?

Really appreciate the response.

Also, does any one have a link to owners manual ? v7 2012 racer.

Best,
Click to expand...
You won't get an accurate read until you start the engine and let the new oil filter fill up.
 
MG seems to have made checking the oil extra hard by giving conflicting instructions. In the service manual (for the III) on page 46 in boldface it says to check with "filler plug/dipstick fully inserted but not screwed in". Then right below in the bullet point steps it says to "Fit the oil filler plug/ oil dipstick and tighten fully" before checking! I suspect one of these instructions was left from a previous manual, but which? Meanwhile, in the Owner's Manual for the III, it says to screw fully in.

Checking oil on pretty much any motorcycle is somewhat ridiculous because 1) it is supposed to be done after the bike is warmed up and then left to drain a bit, which means you can't check it before taking off as you would naturally want to do, and 2) they all seem to want the bike upright, which with all but one of my bikes, means balancing it precariously off the side stand while crouched down on the floor looking at a sight glass or trying to test with a dipstick.

Here's a minor rant: dealers for all bikes seem to over fill oil. I do my own oil changes, but the 2018 V7 I just bought used and a BMW R1200R I bought used right after dealer service in each case, both were way high, no matter what method you use!
 
My theory is dealers overfill so customers don't bitch that they didn't put in enough. Ok for most brands just not Guzzi.
When you get back from a ride once every 1000 miles, put it on a 2x4 on the side stand, It's close enough to upright. Go in the house, remove safety gear, pour a drink, go out and check the oil. Yes the III needs to be fully screwed in and I suspect the other years would benefit from that too.
 
A solution for those with a dipstick, is to measure it the regular way with the bike upright, then put it on it's sidestand and check again, then mark a notch in the dipstick at the new level. You can then decide if you want it measured with the dipstick screwed in fully, or just resting! :)
 
Hippo-Drones said:
A solution for those with a dipstick, is to measure it the regular way with the bike upright, then put it on it's sidestand and check again, then mark a notch in the dipstick at the new level. You can then decide if you want it measured with the dipstick screwed in fully, or just resting! :)
Click to expand...
Perfetto!
 
It seems that consistency is key. Do it the same way, every time.

For my V7III, cold, on the sidestand, the level comes to the top of the dipstick hatching. If I check the level this way all the time, I have a frame of reference that I can rely on.

But pick a method, any method that you are comfortable with, and stick with it.

doc
 
I am lucky my V85TT has a sight glass and I added the center stand (optional extra) so I just ride into the garage, let it idle while placing it on the center stand, then turn it off and watch the oil drain back. When the engine is fully warmed up it takes less than 30 seconds to drain back so there is no need to wait more than a minute before checking the oil. I just looked at the sight glass and the oil level is in the middle (same as shortly after parking) after the bike has been sitting for several days. Therefore, the oil level does not drop noticeably after it cools off.
 
GerryAZ said:
I am lucky my V85TT has a sight glass and I added the center stand (optional extra) so I just ride into the garage, let it idle while placing it on the center stand, then turn it off and watch the oil drain back. When the engine is fully warmed up it takes less than 30 seconds to drain back so there is no need to wait more than a minute before checking the oil. I just looked at the sight glass and the oil level is in the middle (same as shortly after parking) after the bike has been sitting for several days. Therefore, the oil level does not drop noticeably after it cools off.
Click to expand...
Jealous!

doc
 
GerryAZ said:
I am lucky my V85TT has a sight glass and I added the center stand (optional extra) so I just ride into the garage, let it idle while placing it on the center stand, then turn it off and watch the oil drain back. When the engine is fully warmed up it takes less than 30 seconds to drain back so there is no need to wait more than a minute before checking the oil. I just looked at the sight glass and the oil level is in the middle (same as shortly after parking) after the bike has been sitting for several days. Therefore, the oil level does not drop noticeably after it cools off.
Click to expand...

Just like BMW motorcycles.

Same thing applies here as with dipsticks.

In the round sight-glass, bottom is ADD, top is FULL FULL FULL.

Never fill more than halfway up the sight-glass.
 
Hi all, I have read all posts on corrrect checking of oil level on modern small block motors. In my case Breva 750 ie, i contacted motoguzzi who eventualy past me on to "final inspection" at Motoguzzi factory and this was there reply. On its wheels and upright with dipstic screwed in. That makes the most sence as it is the only way to ensure the dipstic can alwas be held at the correct angle so one always gets the checking rod in the same place and same angle every time. The level should be "towards" the max but below max and never over. The sump is angled so level ground is essential.
 
This thread proves reincarnation is real ... at least on the internet! :rofl:

The only thing I'll add after this latest from @tubz is this pic taken in Erie a few years ago.

It shows what I have found to be the most effective means of keeping my Stornello upright so I can check the oil level. :party:


i-JHTn52V-L.jpg



My wife and m-i-l were sports, so I can't guarantee that you'll have the same results with other "distaff staff. ;)
 
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