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Clutch Doesn't Disengage When Hot

Eric LA said:
I actually took mine to Todd from Guzzitech and I believe he replaced the clutch rod for me. I know he replaced the throw out bearing. After that it was good for a couple of months but then it all started again.
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I've replaced handful of the parts below on V7s, all showed high-heat/load and deformation. You can see this on the bearing, bearing shim washers, heat of the push rod cup, and flattening of the actual push-rod.

Not to Eric: All were '13-15 models. I will also add that I had several over those years in my rental fleet/duty, that had zero issues. I really think it comes down to poor dealer set up, use/abuse, and mis-adjustment. Like any bike, clutch cables will stretch and need adjustment, and more so with Guzzi as it's a dry clutch, but we also have documented big mile small blocks over the last ~40 years. The '16-17's seem to be better, as is the clutch cable routing and ease to see/check the clutch arm on the gearbox side. Frequent washing and outdoor bikes have shown to corrode the clutch cables and metal elbow off the lever, so it really comes down to owner knowledge and care.

V7-Cltch-Parts.webp
 
Well that is good to know that I'm not crazy and that it's not just the cable stretching all the time. And my bike was fine for a while until recently when the clutch starting acting up.

Thanks for the info, Todd. You do good work and I have your 2 into 1 exhaust still on my bike. Everyone loves the sound. I wish you were on the East Coast because then I could just bring it into your shop. As it is right now, I think I'm going to do the work myself because I really don't trust my dealer anymore. They've missed things and not fulfilled some of my requests too many times. And not to mention they are ridiculously expensive.

One more thing, Todd. You think this will be a permanent fix as long as I don't abuse the thing and get the clutch adjusted properly at both ends?
 
drawnverybadly said:
I have the same issue as you when the bike gets stuck in rush hour traffic, the theory a few of us came up with was that the heat generated during slow city riding combined with the cable being under constant tension from city maneuvering, causes heat to bleeds into the clutch cable causing it to expand and stretch ever so slightly to the point that it won't fully disengage. What I do when this happens to me is I'll tighten up the clutch adjustment knob while at a red light and loosen it back up when I'm done with the bike.

Do you get this issue while highway riding?
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I just discovered the same issue on my V
 
Eric LA said:
Hey everybody,

I have a 2013 V7 Racer, and I've had issues with the clutch ever since I bought it new. I've had repairs done, I've installed a new clutch cable, I've re-routed the cable, etc. At this point my most recent clutch issue is this: When I start the bike up in the morning the clutch is normal, still more sloppy than any other clutch of any other vehicle I've ever had, but functional in all its clunkiness. After about 20-25 minutes of city riding (stop and go) I have to pull the clutch lever in further and it becomes progressively more difficult to get the bike into neutral or first gear. By the time I get home, after about a 40 minute ride, It won't go into neutral at all. But the next morning when everything is cool, it's normal again. Has anyone experienced this? I feel like my options are replacing the clutch entirely or attacking the bike with a baseball bat, which I've wanted to do pretty much the entire time I've owned it. I appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks!
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I just discovered the same issue on my V7 II special. It is clear the clutch cable expands with heat from the motor after and it affects the clutch engagement. Checking the routing of the cable it runs right by the extremely hot motor head. I wonder if it can be better insulated.
 
Eric LA said:
Thanks very much. I ordered some foam pipe insulation to cover the cable. If that makes a difference I'll know that the cable is the issue. I'll post my findings after I test it out. Have a good weekend!
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Hi, did it work for you? I think I have the same issue and I was considering the same solution
 
Hi all , I have a 2013 racer . I had this same issue, though not as bad as some of you mentioned. I solved mine by adjusting the little nut at the back of the engine, were the cable is attached. Just a little turn to the flat screw and it really made a difference. I had to do a home made tool to adjust it. The bike still does not like traffic, but its nothing drastic. Hope this helps a little.
 
dabrucru said:
Hi all , I have a 2013 racer . I had this same issue, though not as bad as some of you mentioned. I solved mine by adjusting the little nut at the back of the engine, were the cable is attached. Just a little turn to the flat screw and it really made a difference. I had to do a home made tool to adjust it. The bike still does not like traffic, but its nothing drastic. Hope this helps a little.
Click to expand...

Do you still have the 2mm free play at the handlebar? If less you are courting trouble.
 
joejacobi said:
I as well have had the same issue, for a short period it seemed eratic and only once in a while - I switched oils and now happens all the time after heating up. I'll check my oils in my garage tomorrow and let you know what to avoid. Any ideas on why/if the oil change makes the difference?
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Hi @joejacobi ,

I've tried everything see thread, except looking at oil as I thought the v7s had a dry clutch.

Are you talking about having this issue when changing engine oil or the gearbox oil. As I might try and see if it makes any difference. I've simply run out of ideas. Struggle to get parts following Brexit (even had them shipped to the UK from NZ).

For anyone else interested or reading with simialr issue see thread with my exhaust list of other things I've tried to fix the issue here.
... https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-stone-2014-clutch-issues.23463/

Jimmy
 
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