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Clutch Lever Replacement - What's the deal?

G

GR1

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
30
Location
Los Angeles
Ciao Guzzisti

Reaching out to those of you that have swapped a clutch lever on a V7. I've got a V7ii Stone... and while trying to remove the old lever it seems the cable just will not come out. Has anyone else had a similar experience? On other bikes I've always found it pretty easy to just turn the handle and feed it properly out. However, the sheath protection at the end of the cable (where it connects to the pin) is too wide for it to just slip out.

Anyone else noticed this on a V7? Any tips for getting it out (I've tried greasing it up, trying to wedge the channel open larger)?

Thanks!
 
I think when I did mine I just turned the adjusters to create slack and it was enough to remove the lever. I can't recall if I did anything at the clutch arm end. Bottom line for me it was relatively easy swap which is why I guess I don't recall any specific steps I had to take to remove.
 
tonUPRacer said:
I think when I did mine I just turned the adjusters to create slack and it was enough to remove the lever. I can't recall if I did anything at the clutch arm end. Bottom line for me it was relatively easy swap which is why I guess I don't recall any specific steps I had to take to remove.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response. Yeah I expected it to just easily pop off (the old one), and even watched other videos to confirm I wasn't crazy, but figured I'd ask here to see if maybe it was a guzzi specific thing that they were notoriously tough to disengage
 
I replaced the clutch lever with a Pazzo, and don't recall any issues. There might be a burr on the barrel or in the lever area itself. I ended up putting the stock one back on because it created more free play than the adjuster could adjust out without leaving only 1 or 2 threads. Thought about having a Barnett cable made with an extra adjuster added inline.
 
JACoH said:
I replaced the clutch lever with a Pazzo, and don't recall any issues. There might be a burr on the barrel or in the lever area itself. I ended up putting the stock one back on because it created more free play than the adjuster could adjust out without leaving only 1 or 2 threads. Thought about having a Barnett cable made with an extra adjuster added inline.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got the Pazzo and regretting it. Adjusted all the way out at the lever and still don’t think the clutch is full disengaging.

I’ve read some posts saying do NOT adjust at the transmission end. Anyone have opinions on this? Is it a bad idea?

I wrecked my lever finally getting it off for the Pazzo, and now this... very disappointed.
 
According to part numbers, the levers are a tad different for the III series, and it looks like (at least on AF1 site) you can get the whole lever assembly cheaper than the lever only. I'd be surprised if Pazzo retailers would take their lever back. They probably did not check for differences for the 2017 models.
 
looks like you got your lever out...the bad way...

be extremely careful with Pazzo or any aftermarket levers. Double check the knob holder hole is the same location comparing to your original lever.

If the knob holder on the lever is slight off, it has the potential to change the travel of the line.

My line was rubbing at the end of the barrel when I changed the lever to aftermarket. Now I changed it back and just learn to work with the factory lever.
 
TimmyTheHog said:
looks like you got your lever out...the bad way...

be extremely careful with Pazzo or any aftermarket levers. Double check the knob holder hole is the same location comparing to your original lever.

If the knob holder on the lever is slight off, it has the potential to change the travel of the line.

My line was rubbing at the end of the barrel when I changed the lever to aftermarket. Now I changed it back and just learn to work with the factory lever.
Click to expand...
Which after market lever was that Timmy?? I don't want to make the same mistake. :shake:

Paul
 
TimmyTheHog said:
looks like you got your lever out...the bad way...

be extremely careful with Pazzo or any aftermarket levers. Double check the knob holder hole is the same location comparing to your original lever.

If the knob holder on the lever is slight off, it has the potential to change the travel of the line.

My line was rubbing at the end of the barrel when I changed the lever to aftermarket. Now I changed it back and just learn to work with the factory lever.
Click to expand...

Yeah, wish I had figured this out before. Thankfully, there's an OEM lever on it's way to my place (I wrecked the original lever getting it off...) and the Pazzo will sit in a cupboard until the day I need a new clutch line (so, probably will forever rest there)

Thanks to everyone for hopping in here, appreciate it!
 
roadscum said:
Which after market lever was that Timmy?? I don't want to make the same mistake. :shake:

Paul
Click to expand...
Oops, been busy the whole day and finally got time to reply

Well, i actually bought two.

First, I made a mistake buying some Chinese made “Pazzo” from fleabay...it did work but not until I start to feel more resistance even with cable lube. Then I noticed the end of cable near the knob was ALWAYS shiny...that’s when I realized the cable was getting dragged high and rubbing against the barrel. It was “the rombas style short lever”

I then bought the true pazzo...it wasn’t cheap but it did solve the barrel scraping...HOWEVER, i couldn’t get my clutch to fully disengage when I adjusted the lever closed to my hand I can “grip” better...

So I returned the pazzo within the same week and thank god they allowed the refund after a few e-mails. Now I am using V7ii lever which I bought the whole perch for just the lever because I was too stupid to take care of it when take off and broke off the tip near the notch. Costed me 35 bucks...

Anyway, other people might have success story, but guess I was just SOL
 
Just to clarify, mine was on a 2013 Racer and the aftermarket levers were Mistral. I guess the bigger issue was whatever changes made in the V7ii.
 
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