turboguzzi
Just got it firing!
Hello Everyone
Been quiet as my SP simply runs perfect.
But there was a fly in the ointment in the shape of some metallic clatter at idle and certain revs.
Not surprising, cam chain slack, OEM tensioner was not controlling the chain anymore... so went with the Valtek/Stucchi like i had in my LM III
Doing it up now, the question i have iS regarding the stupid gu95028025 lock washer..... #5 in the first pic... in which at the right torque you never have the tongue in place to bend
Looking at the newer models, it still the same crank nut thread (M25 x 1.5) BUT, low and behold, NO LOCK WASHER, just the recommendation in the manual to tighten to 200 nm / 147 lbft) and no loctite.... #4 in second pic....
So has the world changed and bent tab lock-rings not really critical anymore? Or do you just follow your model manual and obediently buy a new lock-ring to tab bend?
just to make sure we understand each other, thinking of omitting the part in last pic and jsut go with torque.
objections?
im all ears
Been quiet as my SP simply runs perfect.
But there was a fly in the ointment in the shape of some metallic clatter at idle and certain revs.
Not surprising, cam chain slack, OEM tensioner was not controlling the chain anymore... so went with the Valtek/Stucchi like i had in my LM III
Doing it up now, the question i have iS regarding the stupid gu95028025 lock washer..... #5 in the first pic... in which at the right torque you never have the tongue in place to bend

Looking at the newer models, it still the same crank nut thread (M25 x 1.5) BUT, low and behold, NO LOCK WASHER, just the recommendation in the manual to tighten to 200 nm / 147 lbft) and no loctite.... #4 in second pic....
So has the world changed and bent tab lock-rings not really critical anymore? Or do you just follow your model manual and obediently buy a new lock-ring to tab bend?
just to make sure we understand each other, thinking of omitting the part in last pic and jsut go with torque.
objections?
im all ears