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dashboard interference

Robert,

This is a right royal pain in the ar%$ to isolate. Do not earth each wire out - at risk of blowing up a partially working item...

Wiring diagram on this site will give you an indication of which wire should be to earth. Measure each of these pins (assuming you can get to them) with respect to you -ve terminal on the battery, or the main earth point on/near the gearbox mount. If any pin, that should be earthed/grounded show any voltage higher than a few millivolts, that is probably one of the causes. Pins 17, 18, 19, 20 & 29 should all be earthed, looking at the circuit diagram. These would be a good place to start...

I had a problem early on with my dash - the blinkers would work and then they wouldn't, then they would, then they didn't. Traced it to the multipin connectors going to the dash, where one of the pins was not seated in the connector properly. By this I mean, each of the pins/connectors on the plug in side (not the dash side) have a little metal tang that pops into place when the pin is inserted in the plastic. This stops them from coming out when the plug is removed and replaced. I simply pushed mine in with a jewellers screwdriver until it latched and haven't had a problem since - well not with that anyway - I still have the occasional problem of when I give the "Hurry Handle" a decent twist, the left blinker comes on - just mildly annoying and the solution is probably in the blinker switch part of the control gear on the handlebar. My eyes are not what they should be even with glasses, so I will leave it alone and deal with the blinker when I get back to an "acceptable" speed.

If you want clarification, give me a ring on 0450 536 807 and we can talk it through.

Enjoy the pizza tonight!
 
thanks Tony.

number noted, you can edit it out of the internet now if you wish. I'll have a look and see what I find.

ps I got my first pair of glasses last week, tough getting use to them.

cheers

Robert
 
I may have a spare metric dash for the 1200 Sport. The turn signal started acting up so I got my original dash fixed at Carmo and haven't had a problem since. The dash all works well except that one of the signals blinks quickly and you get the indication of a bad bulb.

I had been using a bicycle speedometer mounted on the handlebar to get my speed if I didn't want to do the math so that is always an option.

I have a hard time letting parts go, considering on trading out the 1200 Sport and if I do then I won't need the spare dash(es). I'm thinking shipping costs only would do it but I have to make up my mind on the bike first.
 
OK folks,

I'm still playing around with this. The max speed reading on the LCD is accurate and matches the speed I should be doing according to the revs, so it's just the analogue speedo that is faulty.

What I've done so far:
1. after spending some time taking instructions (thanks for talking me though it Tony) I've checked all the earths on the dash and they appear OK
2. I've removed the speed sensor from the front wheel and cleaned the whole area up
3. I've removed the needle again and tried pushing it further in for a better seating

What I've found is:
1. that there is a more consistent reading in that I no longer do 240kph in 3rd gear
2. at speeds up to about 70kph the reading is very accurate and stays that way
3. once I get to approx 100kph the reading starts to creep up to around 130 which appears accurate for 100 so if I'm doing 140, I'm actually doing 110. The speed differential of 30kph remains consistent through the range (I hope this isn't confusing)
4. when I turn the ignition off the needle stops at 30kph
5. ignition on and off a few times and it settles back to zero. But if I don't reset it this way it's stays high.

Now I'm thinking the speedo mechanism on the circuit board is faulty. Does anyone know if there is any thing I can play with here. Also are the speed reading for both analogue and LCD are supplied by the same source?

Any other thought would be appreciated. This is no longer a repair job but a challenge. I'm resigned to sending it back to Carmo next winter but fiddling becomes obsessive.

If you guys are getting bored with this, that's cool, no need to respond, I can't let go. Now to get that bone off my dog.

cheers

Robert
 
With you all the way Robert, shame we can't offer something solid for you to try. Looks like Carmo might be your best option, this one is a real black box. Bisbonian might have a spare dash, some cajoling perhaps?
 
Yeah, I think Carmo is the way ahead. I don't want to replace the dash, it's ridable as is, so I will ride through the summer and send the dash off for the winter. In the meantime, I'll keep trying things and jiggling wires to see if something turns up. The tacho was the same, and that self righted, so I'll keep playing - and posting if things change.

edit: Tony, I've struggled though the wiring diagram, and I think I follow it. Any idea what item "60" is "instrument panel diag" and where it is on the bike?

cheers

Robert
 
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Guzzi has used a white connector located near the ECU diagnostic connector for their proprietary equipment to connect to the dash. It takes Axone or similar dealer equipment to make the connection, if at all.
 
Like John said, Robert. I wish I had the software to connect to it but I don't. Maybe someone will come up with something... PaulDaytona?
 
Update.

I was getting sick of chasing wires, so I decided to strip out the dash again and swap the tacho and speedo stepper motors over since they are the same part numbers.

YABA DABA DOO!

Speedo works perfectly and the tach just spins round and round. At least the plod won't get me now. Carmo has a stepper but it's too expensive so I'll start looking into alternatives.

When I had the steppers out, I noticed the faulty one had a longer shank. I figure since it pulled out (which is what caused the problem in the first place, I think), it won't go all the way in again. Well I've tapped it with a persuader, it still isn't all the way in but I'll see how it goes. If that doesn't work I'll try super glue, after lubricating things that don't need to stick obviously. Face it, it's busted and ain't ever gonna work again so I can't really damage it.

I'll keep you posted.

Robert
 
Update - again.

Well, as posted above, I decided to gently tap the pin that goes into the stepper motor. Not with a hammer, but with pliers. Tap tap tap. I couldn't get the pin as far as the other one, but I did manage about 1mm.

This appeared to work. It's tight like the others and not loose fitting like before. I started it and it revved normally. I took it for a short 200km squirt, and it's still OK. It reads 2-300 rpm below what I'm used to, but this may be the original needle setting was out (I've got it spot on zero with engine off) I really can't remember what it was like originally. The only problem with it is when the gauges sweep when I turn the key to on, the rev needle only sweeps to about 6000rpm. Everything else appears to work as normal. I can live with the rev counter reading less, I'll just get used to it, but it does work accurately for all other purposes, and yes it will rev to beyond where it sweeps to on initial start up.

It may still fail, but right now I'm celebrating with a glass of home made shiraz.

cheers

Robert
 
As these are "active" gauges, the zero point on the dial when power is applied to the dash, has to be set (When powered off the gauge sits at a mechanical stop, which "looks" like 0 RPM but in fact it isn't). Easy way to get it close is to have the dash powered up when disassembled, wait till the sweep of gauges is done, and while still powered up push the needle onto the spindle at 0 RPM. Obviously, the motor should not be running at this stage.

Afterwards, the indication should be pretty close to reality. Give that a go, Robert. Boy are you the dash "guru" now!

World, call Robert immediately...
 
Guru... I don't think so, more like a ferret not wanting to concede defeat, exploring every avenue and then creating new ones when cornered. And yes, as most people on this forum are, I too am happy to help anyone with these issues as I have been a fair way down the reverse engineering track with this.

Tony, my gauges are set to zero accurately. This is the easy bit. What I didn't explain correctly above is that before the failure, at 100kph the tacho would read 3400-3500 approx.. Now at 100kph the tacho reads 3000. So the either my tacho rested at 3-400 with engine off prior to my problems, or maybe it's a sign of further failure.

So I suppose what I need from B11 owners is what the tacho reads at engine off, and what it reads at 100kph.

I hope this makes sense.

Robert
 
Hi Roblatt. My rev counter needle sits right on zero, I did have a thought, the reason mine only goes up to 6000RPM is because that is what I have set the Rev light to come on at, I have just altered it in settings to come on at 8000RPM and sure enough when the needle does a sweep it now comes up to 8000RPM.
 
Mmm, I might have a look at resetting it higher and see what happens. I've just left it at the default indication until this is all sorted because it's been dash on, dash off, dash on...... etc.

any idea of your revs at 100kpm?

thanks

Robert
 
Robert, just thinking (dangerous I know, and could lead to some quite outlandish statements), the shaft of the stepper motors, one is not as free as the other. Sounds like some mechanical binding within. I wonder if aforementioned condensation may have done something to one of the bearing, or maybe both. Are these able to be disassembled for a look see? I am reluctant to suggest WD40 or the like, but I am suggesting it anyway. Well just a tiny little bit if you can pull the things apart.
 
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