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Dead lm2 1981

L

Lemon

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 21, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Manchester uk
Strange problem with my guzzi. Sometimes, after being left standing for a week or so, I turn the ignition key and there is nothing. No lights or anything. However, the flashers still work. Then after a few Trieste the lights will come on and it's perfect. Any ideas?
 
Lemon said:
Strange problem with my guzzi. Sometimes, after being left standing for a week or so, I turn the ignition key and there is nothing. No lights or anything. However, the flashers still work. Then after a few Trieste the lights will come on and it's perfect. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Guzzi runs too much current through the ignitions switches on these older machines. Some have had good luck rebuilding them, but it isn't easy. If you can locate a NOS switch then add some relays into the circuits to carry the loads like modern Guzzis it will take the strain off the switch.
 
Ok thanks. I think it must be the switch although i have yet to confirm that. Do you know how i can easily remove the swich on my lm.2 Can I do it from the top?
 
Lemon said:
Ok thanks. I think it must be the switch although i have yet to confirm that. Do you know how i can easily remove the swich on my lm.2 Can I do it from the top?
Click to expand...
With the fuel tank off it is an easy job. Search for maintenance and parts manuals. Unfortunately those manuals are not in the downloads section.
 
Bit late but anyway...you don't have to remove the tank on the Mk 2.
This is a job I've just had to do myself because of intermittent ignition; the easiest way to get access is removing the fairing and taking the switch out through the front. You'll also need to remove the foam type clock cover to get to the retaining collar; be carful, the threads are plastic.
Make a note of wiring in the back of the switch and disconnect them. The metal sleeve has 3 tangs which you have to straighten out, then you can remove the base plate of the switch. Be careful, there are small parts in there with springs. Check out the base plate which has copper contact surfaces bedded into it and the top part has U shaped copper pieces with springs under them. These parts should have small 'dent's' on their tops which contact the strips on the base plate.
My base plate was in decent condition but the dents on the U pieces had worn. I turned my U pieces around and when I put the switch back together it had cured the problem.
Use a little dielectric grease on the base plate first and press the 2 parts together hard when re assembling, as the springs try to push them apart. You should have absolutely no play between the two when back together.
As mentioned, as standard the ignition switch takes a lot of current and there is a mod which involves using a relay so relieving the switch of much of it's current. If you search for 'Startus Interuptus' on Google you'll get hits which explains it.
Here's a couple of pics of the switch internals.
 

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Thanks for that. For some reason it has been ok for a few weeks. When i fiddle wth th ignition it does not falter. When it goes again i will check with a meter to confirm it is the switch. So does the switch come out through the back and is the screw collar on the front?
 
As you sit on the bike you can see the collar on the switch. The switch mounts on the clock support bracket and is located via tangs to orientate it correctly and stop it rotating. You can only remove it from the front of the bracket with the fairing off. The alternative would be to remove the bracket itself first, but that is a lot more hassle.
 
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