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mbtech said:Hey gang! I have read this post with much intrest as I am replacing the clutch disc's on my 07 Norge. It has 68, 000 miles on it as of right now and when the clutch slipped on me while accelerating on the freeway I knew it was time.
One question I have is on the clutch release rod. One end is smooth and perfect while the other end has scoring and a divet burneshed in the end. Also the amount of travel in the clutch release piston area is only 2.5 to 3.0MM. Does that sound right? I think the rod has been worn down. As measured it is about 18.5cm long. Is there a spec on this rod or the amount the piston should extend out of the back of the transmission? Thanks for all the advice in advance.
P.S. the picture of Bronc-brevas bike looks just like mine. Removed the complete engine and trans together after removing the carc and suspension. I also found the bearings in the carc pivot were never lubed and have scored and fell apart when I touched them while cleaning the frame. I can post pics later if anyone would care to see.
afulldeck said:So what does everyone think? Is it easier to pull the transmission or the engine? I'm thinking its probably easier to pull the transmission so long as the rear of the bike is suspended from above.
Thoughts?
Matteo said:afulldeck said:So what does everyone think? Is it easier to pull the transmission or the engine? I'm thinking its probably easier to pull the transmission so long as the rear of the bike is suspended from above.
Thoughts?
I had to pull my engine for an oil pump failure that scorched a bearing. It wasn't very hard and gave good access to the clutch plates which I inspected while there. I left the transmission in place. Take care reattaching breather line, I cut the miniscule o-ring and had a nice gusher.
Regards
Matt
afulldeck said:Well it took me roughly 18 hours to dis-assemble, change the clutch plates and reassemble my Norge. Not the easiest job, I've ever done. But its done. Had the bike out and about and everything is working as it should. I'm now wondering what does it usually cost at a shop to replace the fiction plates?
afulldeck said:Well, I'm mid-way through the clutch replacement on the 2007 Norge, its been quite a job thus far. Some things I have learned:
1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.
2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.
3) The easiest part is the changing of the clutch fiction plates. That took less than 5 minutes. And yes, these fiction plates need to be replaced.
Wish me luck pulling it together tomorrow.
Matteo said:afulldeck said:Well, I'm mid-way through the clutch replacement on the 2007 Norge, its been quite a job thus far. Some things I have learned:
1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.
2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.
3) The easiest part is the changing of the clutch fiction plates. That took less than 5 minutes. And yes, these fiction plates need to be replaced.
Wish me luck pulling it together tomorrow.
Sorry to hear it, when me and Dave Pazar (Rodekyll) did mine we were able to simply drop the motor without removing tranny. Dont know why yours was different(did you remove the front mounts?). Same on the install just jacked up and bolted on. It took a little wiggling but we got it back together.
Matteo said:I realized today while doing some maintenance, before I dropped my motor out of the frame I removed the alternator and timing cover. Probably why I had the extra room.
Well we're not having the same luck as you. Got the timing cover off and started moving the motor forward splitting it from the trans, and found that it the right (forward) cylinder hits the the frame tube where the motor mount bracket connects. We wiggled and wiggled. Measured the remaining distance that the motor/trans studs had to go to clear and it was about an inch. We also pulled out the top trans bolt to pivot the front of the trans downward and still not enough room.I realized today while doing some maintenance, before I dropped my motor out of the frame I removed the alternator and timing cover. Probably why I had the extra room.
1) You cannot simply just drop the motor down and out with the rear of the bike supported. You need to able to move the engine forward from the swing arm by about 2" due to the long connecting bolts, but then the front of the frame gets in the way.
2) You need to remove both the transmission and the engine. And that is really a two man job minimum.
I'm starting a restoration project on my B11. Powder coating, re-painting and plating to remove the corrosion. When I pull in the clutch leaver I get a very noisy sound from the dry clutch. I know dry clutches make a racket but is there something that I should check when I get the engine/ gearbox out?
Also does anyone know of someone who hires out tools in the UK.
Many thanks
Nigel