• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Ducati Turn Signal/Running Light Mirrors

Saint Nut

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
31
Location
Tacoma WA
I scored a pair of almost new Ducati Multistrada 1000 mirrors for cheap. I decided to try these mirrors on my Norge. Turned into a more complicated project than I thought.

Mirrors.jpg



These mirrors are much wider than the OEM’s. I’m a big guy so having mirrors that are almost 3” wider than OEM is a treat. Unusual, the heads of these mirrors don’t move--only the glass moves. And there are front turn signals built into the mirror head with wiring snaked down the middle of the stem tubes. One challenge, like most Ducatis and Yamahas, the right mirror is reverse-thread (left-hand thread) while the left mirror is standard thread. How to mount that right mirror on a Norge that has standard 10mm perch mounts?

First off, instead of turn signals, I wanted to use the mirror lights as running lights for improved conspicuity. I suspected the housings weren’t designed to handle the heat from an “always on” incandescent bulb-- I needed some nice bright LED bulbs. Not easy, since the OEM bulbs are an unusual size (7507’s with offset pins), but I ended up with a nice pair of amber SMD bulbs from eBay for $23 shipped.

Here you can see the SMD bulb next to the OEM bulb, then another pic of each bulb installed in the housing. The SMD’s fit just fine--

Bulbcomparo1.jpg


Bulbcomparo2.jpg



Next, I hooked up both mirrors to a battery to see how the SMD compared in brightness to the incandescent--

Bulbcomparo3.jpg


That’s the SMD on the left. It’s actually brighter! The incandescent bulb has a more even glow, but the SMD is brighter in the center.

Before tackling the left-thread problem, I discovered another problem. Posts in a Multistrada forum complain about these stems breaking right at the threads where the tube wall is thinnest. Not much I could do about this, but I packed the bottoms of the stems with JB Weld anyway. Once hard, I drilled a hole up the middle of the JB Weld just big enough to snake the wires through. Basically, I’m hoping the JB Weld will reinforce the inner walls of the tubing even if only a little.

The bottoms of the stems look like this--

Stem.jpg


First the upper locknut threads onto the stem. Then snake the wires through the stem, out the bottom, and through the middle nut. Then screw the middle nut onto the stem and position the wiring exit where you want it. Then lock the stem into place with the upper locknut. The 10mm mounting stud protrudes from the bottom of the middle nut. The lower locknut goes on this stud, then you screw the stud into your mount, position the mirror, then tighten the lower locknut.

The left-thread problem was resolved with some sweet little mirror risers I got from a British website Bitzforbikes. I bought two risers, both fit standard 10mm right-hand mirror mounts, but one accepts a reverse-thread mirror while the other accepts a standard thread. Cool! $24 shipped, and arrived here in 5 days. (I’ll paint these risers black when I get around to it.) Hats off to Paul Smeeton!

Riser-converter1.jpg


Riser-converter2.jpg



Then I decided I’d like it if the mirrors could be running lights AND turn signals. Bought a Signal Dynamics little black box called the TriStarXP from Pashnit.com that let’s me use the turn signal power leads as triggers for blinking the mirror lights. Mounted the TriStarXP under the gas tank then connected all the wiring. No LED “fast blinking” issues because my OEM turn signals are still part of the circuit and nominal resistance is retained.

TriStarXP.jpg



Here’s the final result. Kinda hard to show old v. new but the first two pics give you an idea of how much taller and wider the new mirrors are than the OEM.

OldNewcomparo2.jpg


OldNewcomparo1.jpg


Front1.jpg


Front2.jpg


RightFront.jpg


TailCaseView.jpg


[youtube]9fG9IsjGy-4[/youtube]

(Sorry about this lousy video. You can't really see how bright they are. In daylight, they're visible. At night, they're REAL visible!)

The last question, then, has gotta be, “Yeah, but, how are they ON THE ROAD?”

Took them for a one hour shakedown today and my reply is absolutely fanfuckingtastic! With the OEM mirrors, the way they vibrate, a car is no more than a big blob. These mirrors were so steady, I could not only see the cars clearly, I could see the make and model. I kept looking and saying things like “there’s a Jeep” and “there’s a Subaru.” Changing lanes is so much easier! I have a metal plate in my neck so checking over my shoulder has never been easy. But on this ride I was changing lanes with complete confidence. Cool!

I like these mirrors so much I think I’m going to join a Multistrada forum just so I can cruise the “for sale” section for a back-up pair.
 
They look good but far more work than I would be willing to do to have good working mirrors. Most have replaced the crappy original mirrors with those from the 1200 sport. They bolt right on and give a very clear view of whats behind you. Best part is they are only about $50.00 new for both left and right. Best $50.00 I spent on the Norge. Thanks for posting pictures of how you did the switch and what was involved to do it.
 
Back
Top