I'm not near this right now, but anyone here know if this 6-prong assy is the nut that holds the input hub onto the trans? If yes, does a tool exist? We can make one if needed. Trying to replace the oil seal.
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Eldo input nut?
- Thread starter GTM®
- Start date
Apologies, Todd as I'm doing this from memory. It look the same set up as on the T3 I owned way back. It's the splines that go into the clutch plates? If so, yes, I believe that nut retains the splined shaft in your photo.
My tool is GU14912600 from old, I have a big nut welded to opposite side for torquing.
In the B11 or Norge book it says to use this for swingarm locknut, it is a different tool but almost the same(narrower lugs on old) MG cycle sells an alt or same tool. Good luck.
In the B11 or Norge book it says to use this for swingarm locknut, it is a different tool but almost the same(narrower lugs on old) MG cycle sells an alt or same tool. Good luck.
Yes, thanks, but it's a 6-prong castle nut as noted/shown. Ever seen that one before?
TBH, it's so long ago that I honestly can't recall.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
That's a four-speed transmission from a V700 or Ambassador. No nut on those - just circlips holding the clutch hub in position - one in front and one behind. The "nut" you're seeing is actually the input shaft. #59 are the circlips. I find it easiest to replace the front seal with the input shaft removed, which means almost completely disassembling the transmission. There are a few "tricks" one must know to reassemble them correctly. Done wrong you end up with a two-speed.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Also, that hub looks pretty notched, may be best to replace it. A hub with the deeper (4 mm) splines is available.
To make a 4 spd. leak proof takes a bit of work as well. Often the throw-out bearing bore is worn. Patrick Hayes can sleeve it in stainless steel, and also add an o-ring groove to the cover over the shift selector, so that an o-ring from a 5 spd. can be fitted. The clutch pushrod "seal" (just a tight fitting plastic tube) should be replaced with eiher the later "cone" seals (I had those leak though) or a stack of six unusually sized o-rings (I buy them in bulk and can send some to you).
To make a 4 spd. leak proof takes a bit of work as well. Often the throw-out bearing bore is worn. Patrick Hayes can sleeve it in stainless steel, and also add an o-ring groove to the cover over the shift selector, so that an o-ring from a 5 spd. can be fitted. The clutch pushrod "seal" (just a tight fitting plastic tube) should be replaced with eiher the later "cone" seals (I had those leak though) or a stack of six unusually sized o-rings (I buy them in bulk and can send some to you).
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Agreed. It’s pretty hammered. Check your email again.