Evap removal from a new V7 II

[GTM®]

While often not an issue, it does push raw fuel vapors out when parked. Not a desired scenario in your enclosed garage, especially if any gas appliances with pilot lights are nearby.

All correct, so worthy of note, fumes are part of it... how it used to be for ~100 years prior.

 

[Motech]

All correct, so worthy of note, fumes are part of it... how it used to be for ~100 years prior.

Yeah, I liked the smell of raw fuel too... back when lead sweetened the funk.

 

[Joe Kletch]

I pulled the hose off the outer side of the valve and blew into it, towards the tank, and heard the moaning and groaning. I then pushed a small philips screwdriver through the valve to open it up, tried blowing into it again, and the sound went away. Nice. The other hose is plugged. My friend who is an engineer at the DNR plugged his ears while I was discussing my plans to do the canisterectomy. Funny.

 

[Wisconsin v7 Racer]

My orange/blue valve failed on this well engineered system which resulted in my tank sounding lt was vacuumed sealed, and with the expert advice of ^ I removed it. No regrets but if somebody ever does for some reason want to put it back in its in the giant pile of other expertly engineered stuff that I have removed to GuzziTech out my bike

 

[lorazepam]

I found the evap canister broken on my V7. It is under the tranny, behind the oil pan. The bike would not idle, and and would go from 0-6k rpm before it would die. I cut the line to the manifold, and stuck a bolt in it to stop the vacuum leak, and after letting it run for a bit it has smoothed out and is running like it should.
That is a stupid place to put a plastic can, as mine cracking and breaking has shown. Should I do anything else to the other hoses? I left them connected, since I was on the road and overjoyed to solve what seemed to be a major issue. If I should re route or disconnecy anything else, please let me know.

 

[TBro]

I found the evap canister broken on my V7. It is under the tranny, behind the oil pan. The bike would not idle, and and would go from 0-6k rpm before it would die. I cut the line to the manifold, and stuck a bolt in it to stop the vacuum leak, and after letting it run for a bit it has smoothed out and is running like it should.
That is a stupid place to put a plastic can, as mine cracking and breaking has shown. Should I do anything else to the other hoses? I left them connected, since I was on the road and overjoyed to solve what seemed to be a major issue. If I should re route or disconnecy anything else, please let me know.

Are you going to remove the Evap Canister or leave it there? You already have the first part of the surgery finished. The second part would be to unplug the other hose that runs from the canister to the tank at the canister end, remove the Orange/Blue tip over valve, and let the hose vent to open air.

 

[lorazepam]

Ok, I will get rid of the rest of that crap this afternoon. I rode many years without an evap canister on any bike, and the folks at CARB can kiss my fat white butt.

 

[TBro]

Ok, I will get rid of the rest of that crap this afternoon. I rode many years without an evap canister on any bike, and the folks at CARB can kiss my fat white butt.

I just did mine. Since all the new bikes are using Oetiker Ear Clamps, which are intended to be permanent connections, I just cut the hose from the canister to the Y Intake and put a bolt in the end to plug it. As you mentioned, you already did that. I cut the tank venting line at the Orange/Blue tip over valve and used the extra hose from the Canister removal and the brass hose barb connector to splice the two pieces of hose together with hose clamps. The hose connected to the tank is not long enough to run that venting line down through the frame after you cut it, and I wanted to vent the line to open air at the bottom of the bike so adding that leftover piece allowed me to get the length I needed. I had to unbolt the tank and carefully lift it up to get to the Orange/Blue tip over valve so I could cut the line. I did have to remove the left throttle body intake manifold hose to create enough clearance to remove the canister once I was able to loosen the clamps that hold it in place.

Not a difficult job, but I have large hands and it's pretty cramped in there. Just take your time and be patient.

 

[TBro]

I just did mine. Since all the new bikes are using Oetiker Ear Clamps, which are intended to be permanent connections, I just cut the hose from the canister to the Y Intake and put a bolt in the end to plug it. As you mentioned, you already did that. I cut the tank venting line at the Orange/Blue tip over valve and used the extra hose from the Canister removal and the brass hose barb connector to splice the two pieces of hose together with hose clamps. The hose connected to the tank is not long enough to run that venting line down through the frame after you cut it, and I wanted to vent the line to open air at the bottom of the bike so adding that leftover piece allowed me to get the length I needed. I had to unbolt the tank and carefully lift it up to get to the Orange/Blue tip over valve so I could cut the line. I did have to remove the left throttle body intake manifold hose to create enough clearance to remove the canister once I was able to loosen the clamps that hold it in place.

Not a difficult job, but I have large hands and it's pretty cramped in there. Just take your time and be patient.

Forgot to mention that I have a V7II so there might be some slight differences in your set-up

 

[James.Jasond]

I just did the removal on my V9 Bobber, with the ECU reflash using the tool from Todd - bike runs AMAZINGLY well. For those that are interested, the tube from the gas tank has the valve much lower, you an easily remove the cover that exposes the starter and access everything super easily on the left side of the bike. So, I just cut off the valve completely and extended the vent hose about 4 inches to be well below the engine. I cut the hose to the canister right about the same length as the vent hose and taped them together so they don't flap around, I had a bolt that I screwed into the manifold hose to plug it. I just left the canister on there below the bike disconnected. I put the cover back on and voila - you can"t see a thing and it runs freaking great! I also put Agostini pipes on it, sounds amazing (DB killers removed) and the bike flies down the road. Couldn't be happier.

 

[TBro]

I just did the removal on my V9 Bobber, with the ECU reflash using the tool from Todd - bike runs AMAZINGLY well. For those that are interested, the tube from the gas tank has the valve much lower, you an easily remove the cover that exposes the starter and access everything super easily on the left side of the bike. So, I just cut off the valve completely and extended the vent hose about 4 inches to be well below the engine. I cut the hose to the canister right about the same length as the vent hose and taped them together so they don't flap around, I had a bolt that I screwed into the manifold hose to plug it. I just left the canister on there below the bike disconnected. I put the cover back on and voila - you can"t see a thing and it runs freaking great! I also put Agostini pipes on it, sounds amazing (DB killers removed) and the bike flies down the road. Couldn't be happier.

Glad it turned out well for you. Nice choice on the Agostini's. I love mine and the all black finish really matches my Stone's color scheme for that blacked out look. Removing the DB Killers is a must although my neighbors might not agree with me.

 

[James.Jasond]

Glad it turned out well for you. Nice choice on the Agostini's. I love mine and the all black finish really matches my Stone's color scheme for that blacked out look. Removing the DB Killers is a must although my neighbors might not agree with me.

I agree that they're loud, but honestly not THAT loud. I've heard so many Harleys or Ducatis or just other bikes in general that are way more obnoxiously loud than a MG w/ Agostinis. I get more compliments than anything, plenty of head turning. MGs are just super cool, not very commonly seen, w/ the A pipes they have this low roar that in my opinion is just right.

 

[elkgrichard]

The vacuum line from the intake. Just plug that with a bolt or golf T.

 

[GTM®]

MGs are just super cool, not very commonly seen, w/ the A pipes they have this low roar that in my opinion is just right.

That they are, and you haven't heard my GP Megs yet then.

 

[Dave morillo ibz]

please, can anyone post some pictures of process? I want to remove my V7 II evap but I dont know how I can start!!

 

[V700Steve]

Look under your trans, bracket holds it. Cut hoses w/blade. Pic is on page 1

 

[Dave morillo ibz]

Look under your trans, bracket holds it. Cut hoses w/blade. Pic is on page 1

yes, I can see canister but I can't see mounted on my bike!

 

[GTM®]

'13-15 V7s it is under the gearbox. '16 they put it between the intake manifold, top of the motor. '17 it's back under the gearbox again.

 

[Clifton]

I'd appreciate some advice/assistance regarding my 2016 Stone with 600 miles which I recently purchased used from a dealer (not Guzzi dealer). They had changed engine oil and apparently trans and FD oil because there was a receipt showing Motex 10-50 and 75w-90. Here's order of my brief time with it.

First ride it was a little cold blooded but ran well after warmed up. I rode it 20 miles up the mountain and back around 75 mph. Upon return I found oil on the transmission under the airbox area. Airbox was practically bone dry so my thought it came from the trans vent after being over filled so just cleaned it up.

Next ride rode maybe 10 miles stopping at a gas station. Couldn't really see how much was in it so I filled the tank but it only took a couple quarts to top it off. Rode it back home and don't recall it running poorly then. No oil from transmission this time.

Third ride I noticed it running poorly when I started it and attributed it to not being warmed up but it continued running bad in fact getting worse, like a very lean condition miss from just off idle and with throttle. Came back pulled plugs (which were almost loose) and they looked fine so put them back.

Last ride same problem turned around after 3 miles, it was running so rough I was concerned it'd get me back but it stuttering all the way.

Thinking maybe the dealer (or I when I topped it up) could have over filled it which got into the evap canister then charcoal into fuel filter so I pulled the tank which is where I am now. I can't even find a canister so I guess the previous owner removed it. There are two hoses, the one at the front of the tank I assume is the overflow, the larger one has the little blue/orange valve and runs down under the bike and is not connected to anything. I can blow through both hoses, the one with the valve gives slight resistance and I can hear it. Thinking about getting a new length of hose to replace the line consisting of two pieces and just eliminate the valve. Is there any hose or something which should be blocked which would make it run way lean? But it ran fine before.....

I did pick up a new NAPA fuel filter but there's apparently no charcoal canister so it shouldn't be clogged at just 600 miles. Research has alerted me the stock plastic filter can be problematic so I plan to change it sometime, of course the tank's completely full now. Could my symptoms be caused by the fuel filter? Any other suggestions?

 

[SaulGuzzi]

It looks a bit different from the V7 III, but all i know is, that disc thing is supposed to be cut off.. Its supposed to be tubed to the fuel tank, and should be left to hang.

Secondly, you should take the tube going to the Y connector and take it off, then cap it with a vaccum cap (and secure it)

then remove the evap can completely.