Has anybody swapped forks on the Stelvio? Mine seems to have lost all compression dampening and from what I can tell the bushings are not available any longer so instead of spending a small fortune on Matris or Traxxion inserts just to find out I'll need new bushings or tubes, I thought about a Multistrada (12 to?) fork. Any thoughts and experiences greatly appreciated.
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Fork options for Stelvio
- Thread startergringo
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What year? Different tube diameters for different years .....
As asked above, there's a lot to making any swap work, it's not plug and play as you might guess. I have a set of low mile 2017 forks on my site for sale; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/2017-stelvio-fork-pair-used -- we're doing a HIGH $ upgrade on one.
That's a real can of worms unless you use the entire front end including wheel/calipers/disks, etc... and then you have to deal with the ignition switch. Not saying it can't be done, just at that point, swapping out the internals for the Matris S cartridge kit is worth it. The stock internals are non-rebuildable or adjustable.
I know Doc in the UK has fitted a set of Ducati ones to his ( much modified) Stelvio. Not sure if he comes on here but there is a Stelvio FB group he runs if you wanted to contact him.
Doc is here.
The cost for the swap would far outweigh the Matris cartridge kit. The bushings are available, which I can be of help with as needed. Ping me direct email; info @guzzitech.com -- My last post on this.
The cost for the swap would far outweigh the Matris cartridge kit. The bushings are available, which I can be of help with as needed. Ping me direct email; info @guzzitech.com -- My last post on this.
I think you have your answer here, as a cartridge kit can be fitted relatively easily with no yoke/steering tube/bearings/spacers/machining needed. And look at the quality of the Matris cartridges compared to the stock Ducati forks, likely Showa, unless you are going for the Ohlins. I bet that the Ducati swap comes to twice the cost of the Matris once you consider your time spent on all of the Ducati stuff. Good luck.
Todd has replacement forks with standard inserts or the Matris inserts with better quality internals and adjustments, and they are the same price. I would leap at the Matris.
Well, I got a slightly used set of stock inserts coming (75.-) I'm wondering if the lack of compression damping could be amplifying my brake issue, if it doesn't help, I'll have to get yet another set of rotors (3 in 14000 miles) got new calipers and MC on it, and I still have to figure out the fueling Issue. Todd's Map helped but it's still not like my 09 Stelvio. Got the TB's out for cleaning and waiting on the linkage Ball joint to see if it might cure the jerkiness, checked the TPS and it seems to be within specs. If that doesn't cure it, I might lose my patience with this bike
I suggest you contact Todd directly if your map needs to be adjusted.
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Not sure what your braking issue is. I seriously doubt that you are warping rotors. I ride very fast, and I am heavy, and I use a lot of deep, late braking, and have never warped a set on any of my Moto Guzzi motorcycles.
Not sure what your fueling issue is.
It is not normally necessary to remove the TB to clean them. In fact, removing them is not normally recommended.
The linkage rod between the throttle bodies is factory set and not normally supposed to be modified or moved. In any event, this would not cause "jerkiness".
If you are having jerkiness, you have something not set correctly. I have Todds full fueling setup including the Autotune with 2 wide band sensors, and it is as smooth as silk and has been for many years.
How did you "check" a TPS? It has no visible indicators and is completely sealed. You either reset it, and it takes the reset, or you don't.
Its whole function is to align the physical conditions of the throttlebodies to match the logical conditions within the ECU.
Are you sure you're not making your own gremlins here?
Way off topic, but I'll reply... It never will be. The '09 had the full-power A05 engine, which was shared with the Griso that year. All years after got "softer" midrange cams (A8, then A10). That said, fueling/throttle smoothness should still be good.
Scott, I bow to your Maestro Guzzi status you have great insight and wisdom. And I agree with another post of yours to
not fix if it ain't broke, I would add to not fix unless really, really broke lest one disturb the Molto Gremlins
Brembo Oro 5mm disc installed around 35k right after I bought the bike, I figured the last owner dropped it or something since one rotor was clearly warped. Within about 2000 miles it started pulsing again. I cleaned bobbins ad nauseum (how a thin little spring washer could displace a 5mm disc is still not entirely obvious to me), scrubbed rotors clean and they were the same thickness all around 4.91mm +/-0.01. Runout on a machinist table is +1.2mm
Now with me and the missus and all our gear the bike showed about 1150 lbs or so on the truck scales and we ride lots of western mountain passes in the summer heat, so those poor binders get to work out a little! But a motociclismo named after a famed mountain pass should be able to handle that!!! Anyway, I found a Caliper rebuild kit in Jolly ol Britain and sprung for another set of the admittedly cheaper 4mm GTM rotors, well this lasted about another 3 or 4k miles and I'm back to the slight but VERY annoying 'judder' coming to a stop (it's tolerable solo but not two up)....so, I sprang for a new set of calipers and a matching radial master, and I installed the two discs that are straight. We'll have to wait and see as there's snow on the ground at the moment. I changed the fork cartridges to eliminate the fork causing some "bounce" by being worn out (45000 miles right now) if it seems to work I'll get a 'for sure straight' set of rotors and ride happily ever after, if it doesn't I might be Guzzi'd out......
One of the throttle linkage ball joint has some play in it and one since the TPS is on the end of all the linkage one can affect the idle by holding the L side TB and manipulating the slack (can't remember exactly but I think it changed the TPS readout by about 0.2.) I measured the resistance on pin A to C and it appears to be within spec open @ 1.5kOhms and closed 2.5kOhms so I assume the ECU gets the right signal barring any pinched wiring
From about 2 to 3200 rpm she's a little jerky at times, haven't found any vaccuum leaks or the like, might just be the way this motor is but I think it doesn't hurt to change the rod ends on the linkage just in case power pulses in the intake upset the TPS reading
not fix if it ain't broke, I would add to not fix unless really, really broke lest one disturb the Molto Gremlins
Brembo Oro 5mm disc installed around 35k right after I bought the bike, I figured the last owner dropped it or something since one rotor was clearly warped. Within about 2000 miles it started pulsing again. I cleaned bobbins ad nauseum (how a thin little spring washer could displace a 5mm disc is still not entirely obvious to me), scrubbed rotors clean and they were the same thickness all around 4.91mm +/-0.01. Runout on a machinist table is +1.2mm
Now with me and the missus and all our gear the bike showed about 1150 lbs or so on the truck scales and we ride lots of western mountain passes in the summer heat, so those poor binders get to work out a little! But a motociclismo named after a famed mountain pass should be able to handle that!!! Anyway, I found a Caliper rebuild kit in Jolly ol Britain and sprung for another set of the admittedly cheaper 4mm GTM rotors, well this lasted about another 3 or 4k miles and I'm back to the slight but VERY annoying 'judder' coming to a stop (it's tolerable solo but not two up)....so, I sprang for a new set of calipers and a matching radial master, and I installed the two discs that are straight. We'll have to wait and see as there's snow on the ground at the moment. I changed the fork cartridges to eliminate the fork causing some "bounce" by being worn out (45000 miles right now) if it seems to work I'll get a 'for sure straight' set of rotors and ride happily ever after, if it doesn't I might be Guzzi'd out......
One of the throttle linkage ball joint has some play in it and one since the TPS is on the end of all the linkage one can affect the idle by holding the L side TB and manipulating the slack (can't remember exactly but I think it changed the TPS readout by about 0.2.) I measured the resistance on pin A to C and it appears to be within spec open @ 1.5kOhms and closed 2.5kOhms so I assume the ECU gets the right signal barring any pinched wiring
From about 2 to 3200 rpm she's a little jerky at times, haven't found any vaccuum leaks or the like, might just be the way this motor is but I think it doesn't hurt to change the rod ends on the linkage just in case power pulses in the intake upset the TPS reading
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Thank You Very Much for your kind words.
Re: TPS
The setup and how it works on our Stelvios, is way different than say, on my Centauro.
You in fact set the Centauro TPS with a volt meter but not a Stelvio.
The ECU interface and expected data is different.
You may wish to read this as it may help you understand a little better the nature of the beast.
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/syncing-throttle-bodies-stelvio-8v.9082/page-2#post-151363
Re: TPS
The setup and how it works on our Stelvios, is way different than say, on my Centauro.
You in fact set the Centauro TPS with a volt meter but not a Stelvio.
The ECU interface and expected data is different.
You may wish to read this as it may help you understand a little better the nature of the beast.
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/syncing-throttle-bodies-stelvio-8v.9082/page-2#post-151363
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2011
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- 6,504
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- 8,163
Re: Brakes
I now understand completely what is going on.
Based upon your own information, you are 10% OVER the MAXIMUM PERMISSIBLE WEIGHT OF 475kg (1047 lbs)
You are stressing out the brake system well past it’s maximum capacity, riding vigorously at that weight.
As one approaches the load limit of the system, stress on this system must be at a minimum and extremely smooth and gradual.
At those loads, the Stelvio is being asked to be a Goldwing but on a much smaller chassis and braking system.
At that weight load, I would be driving her like a fully loaded Winnebago motor home; straight line cruising with maximum engine deceleration way in advance of braking needs, which would be the gentlest brake usage I could muster. Every system is stressed to the MAX at that weight! Engine, transmission, frame, suspension, tires, and of course, braking!
You simply cannot hammer the brakes 2 up at 10% over max weight and not expect rotor warpage. Especially if you are flogging her through twisties!
Also, for me, although the front brakes contain 70% of the total stopping power, I would be maximizing use of the rear brake as well as the fronts, in order to keep demands on the front rotors down.
You simply cannot expect the system to perform 2 up fully loaded, like it does 1 up during sporting riding. Something has to give, and it has. Twice already.
I sincerely apologize. New riders to Moto Guzzi motorcycles often “notice” or “complain” about things that are actually normal for the marque, and we have to use discretion in answering some of those type posts.
I thought you were just being a bit fussy or overly sensitive to the brakes, but I can clearly see you have in fact, torched 2 sets of rotors and I know exactly why now.
I ride my Stelvio like a Supermotard all the time (although Ohio roads are a long long way from my lifelong stomping grounds on Mt. Palomar and Angeles Crest in Southern California) but I am POSITIVE that riding the Angeles Crest 2 up from Pasadena at that weight, would result in a totally warped set of rotors by the time I reached Wrightwood. No question about it.
I now understand completely what is going on.
Based upon your own information, you are 10% OVER the MAXIMUM PERMISSIBLE WEIGHT OF 475kg (1047 lbs)
You are stressing out the brake system well past it’s maximum capacity, riding vigorously at that weight.
As one approaches the load limit of the system, stress on this system must be at a minimum and extremely smooth and gradual.
At those loads, the Stelvio is being asked to be a Goldwing but on a much smaller chassis and braking system.
At that weight load, I would be driving her like a fully loaded Winnebago motor home; straight line cruising with maximum engine deceleration way in advance of braking needs, which would be the gentlest brake usage I could muster. Every system is stressed to the MAX at that weight! Engine, transmission, frame, suspension, tires, and of course, braking!
You simply cannot hammer the brakes 2 up at 10% over max weight and not expect rotor warpage. Especially if you are flogging her through twisties!
Also, for me, although the front brakes contain 70% of the total stopping power, I would be maximizing use of the rear brake as well as the fronts, in order to keep demands on the front rotors down.
You simply cannot expect the system to perform 2 up fully loaded, like it does 1 up during sporting riding. Something has to give, and it has. Twice already.
I sincerely apologize. New riders to Moto Guzzi motorcycles often “notice” or “complain” about things that are actually normal for the marque, and we have to use discretion in answering some of those type posts.
I thought you were just being a bit fussy or overly sensitive to the brakes, but I can clearly see you have in fact, torched 2 sets of rotors and I know exactly why now.
I ride my Stelvio like a Supermotard all the time (although Ohio roads are a long long way from my lifelong stomping grounds on Mt. Palomar and Angeles Crest in Southern California) but I am POSITIVE that riding the Angeles Crest 2 up from Pasadena at that weight, would result in a totally warped set of rotors by the time I reached Wrightwood. No question about it.
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