• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Front Brake Hydraulics Issue

Meon2wheels

Loving Life
GT Contributor
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
23
Location
Cincinnati, OH USA
Searched - didn't find anything related:

Anybody else experience this?: riding along just fine on the curvy roads, brakes fine (firm & consistent), after many miles, I brake for a turn and the lever moves ~1 inch further than normal, but still firm. Second application and it's back to normal. Ride for many more miles then it happens again. Brake hydraulics are very firm when applied, terrain is relatively smooth, brake action is smooth (no chatter or pulsing), pads are only 10% worn, rotors are smooth and clean and tight tight, wheel axle is tight, fluid is <1 year old and clear, bike has 10k miles on it. Symptoms are very similar to when the brake pads get shoved back following a violent head shake. I don't use the rear brake much so can't comment on it, other than I do seem to have to bleed it one or twice a year to keep it firm. Any ideas? Jim
 
Last edited:
Hi.
Off the top of my head:
Water in the fluid? Have you ever topped it up and maybe used the wrong spec fluid? It may help to have it pressure bled by a specialist.
Good luck!
 
Symptoms are very similar to when the brake pads get shoved back following a violent head shake.
Can't relate to that either but I have experienced what you describe. I once refurbished front callipers on my 750 Virago including new seals. They turned out to be just a tad too big, which I should have realised by the effort required to get them in. End result was as you describe. The seals were pulling the pistons in away from the pads requiring a second pull on the lever to get them out again. Sounds like you haven't removed the seals though so all I can guess is the calliper needs a good clean or rebuild. I would try bleeding again first though.
 
Hi.
Off the top of my head:
Water in the fluid? Have you ever topped it up and maybe used the wrong spec fluid? It may help to have it pressure bled by a specialist.
Good luck!
Thanks Kenrover. Pretty confident the fluid is free of water. It's crystal clear and came from a new container of DOT 4. Although I have pretty good brake bleeders (Phoenix Systems and MityVac), I may have the shop give it a try. Jim
 
I have that issue on my Breva rear brake, its the vibration on the caliper, as it moves on its pin it pushes the pads in a very small amount. I regularly operate the pedal very lightly so that when I do need the brake its not a shock. Try it yourself, grab hold of the rear caliper and wiggle it back and forwards against the disc, then operate the pedal and you'll find it goes down further than expected, then operate it again and it'll be back to normal. I don't think there is anything wrong.
 
I have that issue on my Breva rear brake, its the vibration on the caliper, as it moves on its pin it pushes the pads in a very small amount. I regularly operate the pedal very lightly so that when I do need the brake its not a shock. Try it yourself, grab hold of the rear caliper and wiggle it back and forwards against the disc, then operate the pedal and you'll find it goes down further than expected, then operate it again and it'll be back to normal. I don't think there is anything wrong.
Thanks Kevin. I do see movement on the rear brake caliper. The front calipers are solid however (or appear that way), but I'll certainly give them another look. I also prevent surprises by operating the front brake lever a little before a spirited turn entry, but I shouldn't have to. Thanks for your input. Jim
 
Back
Top