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Griso 1100 rear shock bottom mounting

R

Rutger_B

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Gloucester, England
I seem to have lost the T bush (10) from the rear shock bottom mount (after dismantling it) on my Griso 1100. I can't understand how it's meant to work, either. If I tighten the nut it stops the swinging arm moving freely. The long head of the bolt (9) passes through the s/a boss and tightens against the pin (4), pushing it into the other side of the boss. Why is the T bush shown with the collar to the inside? Can anyone who is taking one apart give me a precise image of what it should look like? Thanks and I hope the diagram appears in the post ok. The image is confusing as it is as if sitting backwards on the bike: i.e. right is left.
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Just did a swing arm service on a Stelvio. The T bushing actually goes into the casting of the swing arm from the inside. The section of the T bushing goes into the casting and can fall out easily. The long Allen head (9) goes through the casting of the opposite side.. I agree the parts drawing could be better. The swing arm casting should be ghosted showing the 9 through 11 call outs attaching at the swing arm. Worrisome that the three point suspension piece that everything goes through isn't identified as well. I guess you get that when you order item 3.
 
Kevin.NZ said:

here is a photo of my Breva 1100 with the CARC removed,
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the replies, Kevin and John, I am embarrassed to say that I didn't mean the shock mounting, but the mounting on the swinging arm. In the diagram it's the mounting point nearest the bottom of the shock, but that's no excuse.

As far as I can work out the T bush is the wrong way round in the diagram. The hole in the swinging arm is machined to a bigger diameter on the outside, as if to accommodate the bush, and I can't see why you would have it facing the way it is in the diagram.

Anyway, thanks for any help.
 
Hi Rutger_B. I've just been out to the garage and dropped the CARC down to have a look and can categorically tell you the T bush (10) does go into the CARC in the way shown in the diagram. If you lay on the ground on the right hand side of the bike and look up at the Carc, the T bush pushes into the CARC FROM THE INSIDE (the hole on the exhaust side of the bike) and "the top hat" part of the bush abuts against the pin (4) . Hope that makes sense. I agree the drawing is confusing. Kev
 
Thanks Kevin. That does make sense, but I've just undone the nut and the hole is big (as in a few mill wider than 10 mm) on the outside, and I remember it as being only 10 mm on the inside, where the bush would go. I'll have to have it apart again.

I've ordered a new bush, but I'm still confused. I don't normally lose parts. Perhaps I'm losing my mind.

Thanks again. I'll reply again when I've had a good look again.

20 minutes later ...

I've had another 'thought'. perhaps the T bush has been in place all along and didn't become dislodged when I dismantled the CARC. So what I thought was a shouldered hole on the left of the CARC was in fact a hole the same dia as on the right but with bush inserted making it 10 mm dia on the inside. Does this make sense?

I'll still have to take it apart again to check.
 
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That was going to be my next suggestion that the bush is still in the CARC, mine is quite a snug fit. there is no "shouldered hole", both holes are the same internal diameter. I bet you find the bush in its correct place.
 
You're right and I feel really stupid. I even noticed before reassembly that there was a circle of polished-looking metal round the left-hand hole on the inner surface, which would be the T bush, and I assumed it was a machining artefact. Not too much thought is needed to see that this was a daft assumption.

But why isn't the bush longer?

Anyway, thanks for your help.
 
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The bush supports the bolt going through it and the shoulder provides a surface for the pin to press against. The bush can't be too long otherwise the nut would push it back. When the nut is tightened the head on the opposite end is pulled through the CARC and forced against the pin, holding it rock solid for the needle bearings to roll on. It pays to be like me and not think too much. And never assume as it makes an ASS out of U and ME
 
But it could be almost twice as long without touching the nut, I reckon.

My 1969 V7 Special didn't have all these fiddly bits. Why did I get rid of it? And I bought a BMtroubleyou instead. A deep vein of wrongheadedness.
 
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