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I read through the thread and research as much as I could, but alas couldn't find the answer to my question...
That being said with my V85 Centenario, I know it being 2021 there isn't a map or crack out for the re-flashing. I know I can run the block-off kit without a map. However, I did purchase arrow de-cat pipes (in-plans on keeping stock muffler) and will be installing them once I'm at my break-in period/1st service maintenance.
From reading the forum, I can use the air block off kit with the pipes to quell the decel popping (once I install the de-cat pipes). However, my main question was will the kit still fit a 2021? I didn't know if there was changed between Euro 4 & 5 which would prevent this kit not working on a 2021? Anyway, if the kit works for '21's I will go ahead and place my order later this afternoon.
Again, I've tried to research and pride myself on researching the forums; but wanted to ask to get a definitive answer. Hope all is well and thank you again for everything!
From reading the forum, I can use the air block off kit with the pipes to quell the decel popping (once I install the de-cat pipes). However, my main question was will the kit still fit a 2021? I didn't know if there was changed between Euro 4 & 5 which would prevent this kit not working on a 2021? Anyway, if the kit works for '21's I will go ahead and place my order later this afternoon.
I've had two people install the SAS on their '21s with no issues. Your bigger issue will be fueling/throttle response with the the exhaust parts without a fueling fix.
thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it. As far as this bigger issue, would it be enough of an issue for me to hold off and wait if/when a fueling map solution is available?
Or on the flip side if I do the exhaust and SAS will it make the ride abhorrent or still rideable? Reason I’m asking is I was curious on how the 2021’s rode with the SAS in place (stock or w/ exhaust) without tune.
thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it. As far as this bigger issue, would it be enough of an issue for me to hold off and wait if/when a fueling map solution is available?
Or on the flip side if I do the exhaust and SAS will it make the ride abhorrent or still rideable? Reason I’m asking is I was curious on how the 2021’s rode with the SAS in place (stock or w/ exhaust) without tune.
Thanks! I’m not in a hurry for performance right now anyway as I’m really happy with her the way she is. Reason I jumped on the pipes was I saw a lot of the Guzzi parts are in short supply, so I figured I’d order and sit on them if need be. I’m more than content on waiting to dive in once the mapping issues are cracked.
To all:
I received my SAS block-off kit yesterday and since I already had the fuel tank off of my 2021 E5 V85, I decided to jump right on in and install it. Along the way I would also remove the purge tank. Following all the great detailed examples / steps found above for both the purge tank removal and the SAS install in this thread, it appears that because my bike is a later model I've found that I should add to a few extra things that appear to be new on the E5 (2021) version of the V85. None of my findings are earth shattering nor difficult to deal with.
1)Tank removal is as described and once the tank is off you will notice this electronically controlled valve that I hadn't seen in any posts before. BYW this appears to open the passage (rubber tube) from the purge tank to a junction at the beginning of the Y split to each cylinder just aft of the throttle butterfly.
The red circle shows the valve. Ultimately I took the valve out, removing all tubes and the purge tank seen behind it with the green arrow touching the tank but I put the valve back in and connected to it's signal as the ECU might want to "see" this connection. Ironically, if you go to the right end of the green arrow you will notice that it ends on one of the purge hoses the valve controls. It is 100% kinked just above the end of the arrow. Any way, see more below.
Removing the valve is easy. Disconnect the electrical connector (orange banded part below) and the permanent hose clamps. It is not necessary to cut the hose clamps but easy to do so if you choose that method. The ends of the clamp actually grab each other so once disturbed enough, the ends release. I'm so used to the permanent type that you have to cut off, I used my diagonal cutters to remove these ones as well.
Below you can see the purge tank at the top of the left picture still in its refuge (the black square looking thing that is actually quite tall as seen below) which is only held in by a tie wrap which needs to be cut. I got to the tie wrap by removing all the electrical connectors and their enclosure on the left side of the bike. Note, there are two of these electrical connector junctions, one on each side of the bike at the "triangle" junction of the frame up by the front of the chassis kind of under the ignition key if that makes sense? I'm not at all sure you have to go the route I did but again, I was there already (getting access to the factory driving light connectors) I've included a small picture of the purge tank as it is longer than you might think!
Above you will note that my finger is touching the bracket that held the Purge tank valve in place. To get the purge tank out I removed this bracket as well as the two coils seen in the picture (yellow dots) Each coil has two bolts that need to be loosened only. Once these bolts have been loosened, you can wiggle the coils out and over the chassis bar seen in this picture which gives you room to wiggle the purge tank out. I removed the electrical connectors from each coil but am not at all sure this is needed. There really does seem to be room to move the coils without removing any wires. You can see I left the high-tension leads on for example right?
Since I don't know anywhere near enough about how the ECU "sees" things in the circuit I chose to reinstall the purge valve controller which meant installing the bracket it mounts to after replacing the coils. As a way to keep everything in the valve clean, I took a piece of the purge systems hose and connected each end back onto the valve itself. You can see this pointed to by my finger in the left hand picture below. Not terribly pretty to look at but would keep everything in the valve clean as a just in case. Don't forget that since the purge tank was out, this valve is not in the way at all. In the future as we all learn, perhaps we can pull the valve and leave its electrical connection disconnected once we know enough but today, I'm covering my backside by keeping it in the "system" even if the valve no longer does anything! You can see the rubber support on the right hand side of the valve. You can see this rubber support in the right hand picture below. This support had no problem keeping the valve in place but now that the two hoses that were there before kept the valve in its place in the rubber support and now since they are no longer there the loss of support won't keep the valve in place if there is a lot of off-road herky-jerky so I took some tie wraps to attach the valve to the rubber support so bumps can't dislodge the valve from the support. Make sense?
And finally you need to cap of the port found at the Y air intake just after the throttle butterfly as seen below. This is as a result of removing the long rubber hose that came from the Purge Valve when you removed it. If you look close, the rubber hose seen at the top middle of the picture goes to the Purge valve (prior to removal of course). Note the red circle shows where the hose attaches to the Y just after the throttle butterfly. Once the hose is off, there is a copper colored port there that must be capped off. I did not have a cap so made one out of a piece of the very hose I pulled off!
SAS KIT: At last we are done with the purge tank and valve. Well, I'M done with them! Lets move on to the SAS kit which follows the installation instructions you can find in this thread. The only thing I wanted to throw out is this: No question each and every bike is slightly different due to manufacturing tolerances so my experience may not be yours but I've heard of issues some of you have had getting access to the front most bolt on the right hand cylinder. For added ease I pulled the RH spark plug HT lead from the plug and flopped it out of the way since it goes over the SAS valve on that side. Is it a must? NOPE but just made access that much easier. I'd heard some stories about what a PITA this was on this side but for some goof ball reason it was a breeze for me. I have a 4" long 4m ball-end wrench that fit that forward bolt almost dead straight as can be seen below. I'm not sure that it had to be a ball-end since it was that close. Needless to say this made the entire process a 5 minute affair to swap both sides out. The installed RH side block of is in the last picture.
OK folks, that is it. The left hand block off plate is dead easy to get to. Good luck in your installation.
I'm grateful to GTM for the parts, the quality construction and for me, the ease of installation. Remember, I'd rather be lucky than good!
I recently ordered a 2021 model (E5) and was reading about the SAS removal. Is it all the same on this new model?
Are there differences betweem US an EU models?
Blue Thunder, I've just completed an addendum above. My bike is a 2021 E5 model V85 too so this might be of some interest. Truth is the bikes are only slightly different (best I can tell) and the install was no problem at all along with the purge tank removal.
Folks, in an attempt to CMA (Cover My A_ _) I've eliminated the fuel tank vent check-valve that I'm told goes bad. On the V85 this vent hose was pretty short as it only had to make it to the purge tank (evap tank) but now that the tank is gone I didn't want the potential of fuel coming out of the now short hose and splashing onto any of the exhaust system so I ran a fuel line to the very back of the motorcycle eliminating any chance of fuel leaking out onto anything hot. Just my .02c for what that is worth. YMMV of course!
I thought I'd add my impressions to this helpful thread. I installed the block off kit this morning. It took me just over one hour but I'll say I have plenty of experience working in tight, often blind spaces, and, fortunately, I have all the tools.
I saw no need to remove any of the spark plug bracketry I noticed when positioning the fuel tank to the left or right sides it seemed prudent to drape a thick towel over the appropriate valve cover. Depending on how much you've moved the tank also be aware of the handlebar switch gear banging into the sheet metal if you turn the bars.
The pinch clamps on the hoses are just a pain in the rear. Once you get the clamps slipped away from the "spigot" a little spritz of WD 40 will make the hoses slip off easily. If they don't cooperate a piece of 1/2" dowel and a few taps from a light mallet will persuade 'em.
I always suffer with trick electrical connections, they just annoy me, every time. I fussed for 10 minutes before I parted the connections but as usual, I don't really know what made it release. We all have our blind spots, eh?
As a previous respondent mentioned this task is easier to perform than explain. Just dig in, you'll git'er done.
I ended cutting the hoses to get the “pump” out and then removed the rest of the pipes on the cylinders.
I was probably over cautious with the tank removal on the First attempt, the wires for the heated grips helped wedge the tank in place, I felt based on past experience I didn’t think I should have to work that hard to move it up out of the way to get the Allen key in place.
I just installed mine today took about an hour and a half. Ended up cutting the SAS pump hoses off the breathers with a razor blade so I had much better access to the Allen screws. I'll say make sure your Allen key or socket is all the way in the screw. They're pretty soft and started to strip one before I noticed. Other than that after a quick ride the throttle isn't as grabby and noticeably less engine braking. I run agostinis with no baffles and there's noticeably less popping too. I will eventually get a tune but so far happy with this easy install. Will report back after a longer ride. Thanks GTM!
2021 850 Special - just ordered the SAS - Air Block-off Kit and added to future maintenance items
- OEM V7-850 E5 Windscreen - waiting to arrive.
- "OEM length" polished Agostini's - assuming that is even an option.
- Todd's near FUTURE ECU flash for this V7-850 model.
- EVAP assy mod.
2021 850 Special - just ordered the SAS - Air Block-off Kit and added to future maintenance items
- OEM V7-850 E5 Windscreen - waiting to arrive.
- "OEM length" polished Agostini's - assuming that is even an option.
- Todd's near FUTURE ECU flash for this V7-850 model.
- EVAP assy mod.
Lads, plz don't curse at me much if this was answered before, I'm struggling with that search function and it doesn't work for me as I'd like to.
So... I got my SAS block tabs in the mail for my 21' V7 E5. I am going to install them it without fuel mapping coz I'll be "emptying" that space under the tank shortly. Upmap with fuel map will come later when I finish welding my exhaust, and few people did it already without any changes or issues after. In SAS product description for V7 E5 it says "LEAVE THE STOCK SAS PUMP IN PLACE AND DISCONNECT OR REMOVE THE TUBING, USE ONLY THE BLOCK-OFF PLATES AND AIR BOX CAP.
So my question is, why??? I don't want it there hanging like a pair of... ehm.... LOL
Is it suggested so because the pump has to be electronically connected not to trigger engine light? Presuming that majority of owners won't start dissecting everything? Like that valve for Evap can delete, where it does nothing after Evap removal but will trigger engine light if disconnected.
Ah, looking at the part for your *newer* bike it does not include plug to terminate the circuit.
So for those bikes you need to keep the pump attached and hide it somewhere ??
OR you could hook up an oscilloscope / meter and figure out what it does ( circuit logic) and make your own plug to keep the ECU happy ;(
Hello,
Otherwise you can replace the coil with a resistor.
I did this for Lambda probes, with a small resistor of 600ohms was enough for the ECU not to consider the circuit open and not heating up.
To whoever is gonna install SAS block kit, it's wAAAy easier to do it with your tank off, just sain
As per video, just by lifting tank it's all good but I think it'd be faster and less swearing just to take off the tank and have all the access ya need. I was taking off my tank to make sm space there anyway, so, just my opinion on this, and I didn't have to cut any hoses as well
As SAS pump has to be plugged in and I didn't want it hanging there, I opened wiring tray and fished out pump's connector to the top. plugged the pump back in and ziptied in place:
After under wiring tray was cleared, I cut off unnecessary brackets left from SAS pump and crankcase breather hose (more info on that is on V7 850 Mods thread):
I haven't re-mapped my fueling yet, that's coming later. I'll ride for a bit as it is and will report later if there's any changes
YMMV of course!
