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GTM Secondary Air Supply (SAS) V7-9 Block-off Kit

Took care of my evap & tip valve, and installed the SAS block-off kit today. If I can do it, anyone can. Was able to gut the tip valve (and successfully put it back together) and leave the fuel drain connected to the evap cannister. Found a great little low-profile rachet that worked great for installing the blocking plates. I know a lot of the guzzi purists hate the V9 tank, but it sure made it easy to get to everything I needed to without removing the tank. No need to move the spark plug wires either. Did both jobs in just a few hours. Thanks for all the how-to instructions and pics, they made it pretty easy to do the deal.

Put some short Agostini's on it last week, now just looking forward to my ECU flash tool arriving soon. Photos attached. Yeah, I know, it needs a wash.

0-6.webp 0-7.webp 0-8.webp 0-10.webp 0-9.webp
 
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Does anyone know what will happen if you don't install the the pump eliminator plug that comes with the kit?
I have it installed but believe its damaged (my fault). I'm getting a service icon and when i plug in the flash tool for a diagnostic it reads P1607 and I con not erase it.
 
Mike M said:
Does anyone know what will happen if you don't install the the pump eliminator plug that comes with the kit? I have it installed but believe its damaged (my fault). I'm getting a service icon and when i plug in the flash tool for a diagnostic it reads P1607 and I con not erase it.
Click to expand...
1607 is a memory file, and not an error. If you have a check engine, it is likely because of the resistor not being in place. To test it, plug the pump back in, and restart as a test.
 
pic.webp

I'm having trouble disconnecting the blue electrical plug from the SAS body. Squeeze sides/top? Just pull doesn't seem to be working?
 
vagrant said:
it looks like there is a lever just on top (above) of the two wires that needs to be pressed down.
hard to believe they can't just come up with one design to use on all quick disconnects.
Click to expand...
Yes! Thanks. Also it helped to put it back on the mount, then remove. Thanks again!

Here was my most handy tool for this job:

tool.webp

And my final tip; if you can't get the hose off of the tube on the cylinder head(s), just cut the tube off to make enough room to get at the allen bolts. I removed the rubber hose from the right side but ended up just cutting it on the left side.

Not a hard job, by any means, just go slow so you don't damage the tank, take a few breaks, and be patient with it.
 
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Installed the SAS elim kit on my wife's V7III today. All I can say is, if you are running aftermarket pipes and getting excessive popping/backfiring (regardless of ECU remap or not), just get this kit. Don't hesitate. IT IS THE SOLUTION.

With that said, I have one tip for getting those hose clamps off the OEM air injection ports. Many have said that angled pliers will work. I'm sure they will. I didn't have any on-hand. However, after fiddling around with it for a bit (tank lifted a bit, but not removed) I did find a solution that worked well for me. Using a screwdriver or similar device, get some leverage underneath the lower tab of the bastard clamp (the tab that is hardest to see or get access to), and simply pull up on it. If you have good purchase on the tab, and can apply enough force, the entire clamp will simply rotate around the hose, so that now the tabs are right in front of you and you can use your pliers of choice to squeeze both tabs together and yank that SOB off. It was actually fairly simply once I figured that out. Diagram below - hope it helps someone else.

clamp.webp

IMG_8796.webp

Cheers!

__Jason
 
In support of Todd’s work I thought I’d drop my experience. I just did the SAS delete, V7III with Agostini (no DB killer). I do not have Todd’s ECU map yet, when I got the exhaust from the dealer they loaded a competitor’s map which is running fine. Anyway, the SAS delete makes a world of difference. No popping, smoother running, feels faster but I’m pretty sure that’s just me being happy with the outcome haha. The install video was most helpful, I only wish Todd would make one for the EVAP delete since I haven’t done that yet. Awesome product well worth the money.
 
Why does Todd suggest this kit is for only 17+ models? I have a 2016 Bobber and appears to have SAS, is it somehow different to later models? I have Agostinis and want to do the remap, but want to do it properly with SAS delete. Also, whats the deal with the evap can delete.. is there a kit for this? I cant find it on the site. Should I do this too before I do the remap? Thanks to anyone that can help
 
Brett Richardson said:
Why does Todd suggest this kit is for only 17+ models? I have a 2016 Bobber and appears to have SAS, is it somehow different to later models? I have Agostinis and want to do the remap, but want to do it properly with SAS delete. Also, whats the deal with the evap can delete.. is there a kit for this? I cant find it on the site. Should I do this too before I do the remap? Thanks to anyone that can help
Click to expand...
Brett, the hemi-head motors (V7 & V9) did not arrive here until 2017. However, yes, it will fit on all V7 III & V9 models. I just looked and I do not have any years listed; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gt-motocycles-v7iii-v9-sas-air-block-off-kit
 
Brett Richardson said:
Why does Todd suggest this kit is for only 17+ models? I have a 2016 Bobber and appears to have SAS, is it somehow different to later models? I have Agostinis and want to do the remap, but want to do it properly with SAS delete. Also, whats the deal with the evap can delete.. is there a kit for this? I cant find it on the site. Should I do this too before I do the remap?
Click to expand...
There isn’t a kit for the evap/tip valve mod. Take a look at the thread titled “evap removal from V7III” for detailed instructions that will work for your Bobber.
 
Ok - I was working on the SAS kit last night and I COULD NOT get the tank high enough to get the plates changed.
So - I removed the tube to the airbox and plugged it with the supplied nib.
Disconnected the *pump* and attached the supplied pigtail.

Its effectively *disabled* - but not properly ( flame proof suit on )
Question.
Does the pump create a vacum pulling the unspent gasses from the cylinder pushing then into the Airbox.
( I can only imagine it working this way ?)
If yes there is no harm in running it as is until I get the tank Off and install the block off plates.
Si ?
 
DeadEye said:
Does the pump create a vacum pulling the unspent gasses from the cylinder pushing then into the Airbox. ( I can only imagine it working this way ?)
Click to expand...
From the first post of this thread " it has a air feed circuit to the exhaust port of the cylinder heads."
 
Its not a pump, it's a valve. If you can't remove the stock air intake plates, at least make sure they are plugged until you can get them swapped out with the blanking plates.

EDIT: and I believe it is a "normally open" valve, so leaving it ELECTRICALLY disconnected from the ECU, but leaving it in place without at least plugging its intake (the side connected to the airbox), would probably be a bad thing.

__Jason
 
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So it's pumping air Into the cylinder from the airbox ??? to assist with
jwtucker said:
Its not a pump, it's a valve. If you can't remove the stock air intake plates, at least make sure they are plugged until you can get them swapped out with the blanking plates.

EDIT: and I believe it is a "normally open" valve, so leaving it ELECTRICALLY disconnected from the ECU, but leaving it in place without at least plugging its intake (the side connected to the airbox), would probably be a bad thing.

__Jason
Click to expand...
i haven’t taken everything appart, but imagining if it’s pumping into the cylinders, it would need to apply a positive pressure forcing the reed valves open ( from what I’ve seen in the video)

Does the tank slip off backwards and up after the bolt is removed, to undo the hoses ?
Will need to get one of the small children I scared with the Honda exhaust to get in there with tiny hands to undo the hoses ?
( just kidding about the use of child labour :eek: )

Scott H. said:
I'm having trouble disconnecting the blue electrical plug from the SAS body. Squeeze sides/top? Just pull doesn't seem to be working?
Click to expand...

Yes that connector was a wee bit of a &#@$& to get off even after I had it clicking...
961E2819-5454-4649-865A-1E93771004A8.webp
You need to push down on the end of those little tabs
 
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It's just a valve. There are different types of SAS on different vehicles. The one used by Guzzi is the simpler pulse-driven option, relying on vacuum from the exhaust pulses to pull in fresh air (there are reed valves on the heads that facilitate this - these are where the GTM blanking plates go).

It may be easier to lift the tank if you remove the left side cover of the bike. The breather hoses from the tank can limit how far the tank can move. Once you remove that cover, it should be apparent which hose may be the culprit. I'm able to lift mine enough to get to SAS stuff without disconnecting any breather hoses, but it is a tight squeeze. The tank lifts straight up from the rear, and then can be pulled back to remove from the bike, but you don't need to remove, just lift.

__Jason
 
jwtucker said:
It's just a valve. There are different types of SAS on different vehicles. The one used by Guzzi is the simpler pulse-driven option, relying on vacuum from the exhaust pulses to pull in fresh air (there are reed valves on the heads that facilitate this - these are where the GTM blanking plates go).

It may be easier to lift the tank if you remove the left side cover of the bike. The breather hoses from the tank can limit how far the tank can move. Once you remove that cover, it should be apparent which hose may be the culprit. I'm able to lift mine enough to get to SAS stuff without disconnecting any breather hoses, but it is a tight squeeze. The tank lifts straight up from the rear, and then can be pulled back to remove from the bike, but you don't need to remove, just lift.

__Jason
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply - I'll poke around again this evening.
As in the video - I was able to get the tank up as high as a 2x4 ( not very high )
and I didn't want to continue pulling up too firmly, when I don't know what is preventing it from easily listing up any more.
 
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Thanks everyone. How necessary does everyone thing the evap can removal is for the reflash? I have no trouble with anything at this point other than some decel popping with the dB killers out on the Agostinis (which the SAS kit/reflash will take care of) So Id rather not have to remove it all for fear of doing the wrong thing.
 
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