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Ignition Switch Fail

S

Ste

Not firing
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
34
Reaction score
19
Location
Santa Fe, NM
Just thought I'd put this up in case anyone else runs into what seems to be a relatively non-common ignition switch problem.

I discovered it while trying to start the bike for my evening commute home after a completely uneventful ride into work.

Turned the key. Nothing. Figured something must have shorted. Checked the fuses. Got a jump. Still nothing. Wiggled the key out of frustration and got a slight blip from the headlamp. Encouraged, I pressed and held the key down forcefully while in the “run” position and got it to start. After stylishly securing the key pressed down with several frame loops of Ductape (Classic Gray) I got it home.

... but not before suffering the indignity and admonishment of my BMW 1200rt riding colleague parked next to me. He previously witnessed my nerve racking multi-day parking ramp diagnosis and repair of an hidden electrical short in the starter lead that kept blowing the main 30 amp fuse. I suppose I didn't help Guzzi’s reputation by leaving the bike disassembled 3 days in the middle of a row of 20-30k Beemers and HD CVOs. I’m sure I’ve supplied plenty of laughs for the full leathers/schuberth crowd at the BMW riders meeting. End rant.

Fortunately, there was an easy, if not cheap, fix. The Aprilia ignition lock/switch component on the Cali - and most other Piaggio Guzzis -- is made up of two distinct parts: a lock cylinder AND a switch. When the stupid plastic switch fails (as was the case with mine) you can pull out the ignition lock assembly and swap out just the switch without having to re-key the bike. If you’ve done Todd’s (totally-worth-it) fueling upgrade you’ll be able to avoid the potential hassle associated with a dealer screwing up the ECU when he/she reprograms the new key chips.

So anyway, if you’ve got a dead bike with a good battery and fuses, you might try to manipulate the key with some force to see if you can’t get it home. The only small hurdle to removing a bad switch is a trivial breakaway "security" fastener that can be twisted out with a vise grips -- or I suppose you could Dremel a slot for a big screwdriver.

Unfortunately, you can’t buy the switch separately from the ignition lockset. You can order the main ignition part (dealer only) alone for about 250 bucks or get the whole three-lock set for a couple dollars more. Two screws hold the switch to the lock cylinder. Swap it out with the switch from the new part.

Hope it doesn’t happen to you. Here are a couple of pictures.

IMG_0217.webp IMG_0216.webp
 
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Well it happened to me. Late summer afternoon, 95 ° in rush hour on a local hwy. I had a great ride going home. Stopped to take my jacket off, same problem, had the bike towed to the local dealer, luckily I was nearby.
They purchased a new lock, ($270) removed the plastic part and reassembled to my existing lockset, ($110). Total bill came to $423. Inconvenienced, ridiculed by my HD friends and total waist of money. Anyway I still like my Guzzi. pjf
 
Now I don't feel like a dick for shelling out on the extended warranty.
 
Mine failed too. The first time was two weeks ago about 350 miles from home. I turned the key and nothing. After several attempts the dash lit up and I road the rest of the way home without any issues. The bike sat in the garage all week on the trickle charger. I put my gear on today to go for a ride and the bike would not start. I could push on the key and get the dash to come alive but as soon as I let go it went dead. I have the switch out now and ordered a new one. Maybe I will get a second to throw in my top case...
 
The more I read about this kind of stuff, the more I start to think I should dump mine before I have to spend $$ on another thing that should not fail.
 
A bit of an update on my failed switch. I decided to open up the failed switch - so I could see how it failed if nothing else. There is a black cap on the back of the switch. There are three tabs holding in on. I popped it off using a couple of small screwdrivers. Next - I removed the switch plate (white). Again - three taps. One of the taps can be pried up with a small screwdriver and then the switch plate can be rotated out of the remaining two tabs. There is a rotating plate (that the key actually turns) that holds two copper contacts. They are spring loaded so the contacts stay in contact with the switch plate. One of these contacts was stuck "up". I freed it up just by pushing it back against the spring and letting it pop forward over and over. I put some dielectric grease on it and reassembled the switch. Works just fine now. I cancelled the order for the new switch.
 
RJI said:
A bit of an update on my failed switch. I decided to open up the failed switch ...
Click to expand...

I ran into a similar problem on my '96 Sport 1100. Dismantled the switch to check for continuity, cleaned up he contacts, applied a little dielectric grease to the contacts, and lightly greased the moving parts, re-assembled and re-installed the switch and haven't had the problem since. At the time I thought I may have caused the problem by engaging the steering lock which requires pushing down on the key. I no longer use the steering lock.

Good to know it's still fixable on the 1400's. Thanks.

I'm not, but should be, surprised MG is still using the same design 20 years later.
 
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Same thing happened to me also with the same stupid spring stuck in the up position preventing contact. In my case it led to a hot joint which melted the insulation on the ignition wires causing a short. I replaced the switch as described by Ste and in the downtime I considered a more reliable steed for my 140 mile daily commute but I couldn't find anything that came close as a replacement. In my search I also went to a wide range of forums for "other" more reliable makes and guess what, they have their problems too. So she's now fixed, running and in daily service once again. The only solution I could arrive at was to buy two Guzzis and hope the planets don't align.
 
Just alittle FYI on this problem: [if anyone is interested] Many years ago,I ran into this same problem on a couple of my bikes,which BTW,always set outside in the elements.So what I did to correct this problem,and continue to do to this day,is periodically spray alittle 556 lubricant into the cylinder thru the key insertion point,then insert the key and turn it on and off several times to get the lubricant to spread around inside,hence preventing any corrosion and or binding, from occurring.And it works.But being the dummy I am,you guys probably won't believe me anyways.But I thought I'd suggest it!! Carry on gentlemen!! Dave!!!
 
All my bikes live outside & I agree with Davetac 1
A liitle CRC or WD40 squirted here & there does wonders.
 
Trout said:
All my bikes live outside & I agree with Davetac 1
A liitle CRC or WD40 squirted here & there does wonders.
Click to expand...
Coming from an aviation (air force) background, CRC, WD40 et al were always known as aerosol glue. Absolutely NOT allowed on air force aircraft. They will always eventually dry out and gum up the works of whatever you're trying to fix. The product we used (and I still do) is Inox. inoxmx.com/inox/mx-3-lubricant/ The MX3 variety is the main one I use. Try it - you'll be impressed.
 
This is crazy. Just happened to me. I spent 5 hours debugging my electrical then noticed this ignition issue. I will try to take it apart tonight.

I took the switch apart. I had to shave a few clip tabs to get it apart. Don't think this was designed for repair. See the internal component below and repair.

Good -1.webp Good-2.webp Bad-1.webp Bad-2.webp Repired.webp
 
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