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Is this a main oil seal leak?

Wow, someone is watching and reading! Thanks so much for the follow up. That link was super helpful, definitely a step in the right direction.

Looks like my next step is figure out whether or not this is a DYI or dealer job. It sounds like even "competent" mechanics are having trouble fixing this leak. I just have real issues with dealership shops, unfortunately I've had some bad experiences.

I guess my next question would be does anyone have a success story having the rear main or flange seal repaired without leaks later on....OR is this part just a ticking time bomb (repaired or not)?

Any idea what a (reasonable) repair would cost in 2020?

Also, any suggestions as to where to find a step-by-step repair for the home mechanic?
 
The ones I fixed didn't leak later. I used Threebond and no gasket, you get a kit to fix it from the Importer. Shorter bolts, thicker oring. There was a Service bulletin on it. Labor will be over 10hrs. Motor has to come down, no crabbing CARC frames. The procedure is in the service manual cept for the bulletin.
 
V700Steve said:
The ones I fixed didn't leak later. I used Threebond and no gasket, you get a kit to fix it from the Importer. Shorter bolts, thicker oring. There was a Service bulletin on it. Labor will be over 10hrs. Motor has to come down, no crabbing CARC frames. The procedure is in the service manual cept for the bulletin.
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Thanks for your input (as always) Steve. We have this job down to a solid 5.5 hours at my shop in Orange.

There's no end-user how-to video that I am aware of. The Service manual covers it.
 
Appointment is a probably a week or two out. I can ride it, rides great but when I pull into the garage its like 15 drops on the floor....its no bueno. I put a baking pan under it, I'm a little worried about it getting on the back wheel while riding, but maybe I worry too much. I really like to wrench on my stuff, my internal debate is venture into it myself or let the dealer do it. I think I will wait to see how things unfold after they look at it.
 
Guess what path I’m headed down next? It’ll be either gearbox or rear main on my 08 Norge. Both jobs seem to be rough.
Sorry for reviving another old thread. At least I didn’t start a new one. Seems like these rear main seals and bolt length issues were either good or bad from the get go and not a 33k mile issue. Now that I’ve got pan/sump gaskets and oil sensor done it seems I’m working my way through the lube systems.

Edit: While standing in the shower I was thinking through my recent work. There was a long rubber hose that went nowhere. There was also a seemingly empty port on the top rear of the Airbox. I wiggled this lonely long hose onto the empty port thinking perhaps it should go there. NOW I’m thinking perhaps that was the purposely vacant vent tube from the gearbox that I may have plugged into a sealed hole on the Airbox. Guess I’ll wiggle the tank off x3/1week and remove that line. Rear drip didn’t start until after I did that.
IMG_4667.jpeg
 
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Gearbox Oil and Engine Oil will smell very different, with the former the more evil-smelling of the two.

I'm not familiar with the Blow-By system on the Norge(s), but I believe it's similar to the Stelvios.

A Hose from the Condensate Tank at the Headstock (where the Engine Breather Hoses go to) goes into the front of the Airbox, it feeds excess Oil Vapour into there to be burnt.
A second Hose is the one you can see in your photo, combined Flex/Solid Hose/Pipe, that takes condensed Oil back to the Sump.
Also on the front of the Airbox will be the Hose for the Idle Control Valve (Stepper).

The leak starting after you attached the Hose could be coincidence, but check it out.

This is the Blow-By System for 2006-2016, according to the Fowlers Website

1687247506616.webp

I've worked on a 2017 Norge 1200 GT, it had the same Breather System as the Stelvios, with a Breather Hose running to the Condenser Box from each Head.
 
Captincvmn said:
Guess what path I’m headed down next? It’ll be either gearbox or rear main on my 08 Norge. Both jobs seem to be rough.
Sorry for reviving another old thread. At least I didn’t start a new one. Seems like these rear main seals and bolt length issues were either good or bad from the get go and not a 33k mile issue. Now that I’ve got pan/sump gaskets and oil sensor done it seems I’m working my way through the lube systems.

Edit: While standing in the shower I was thinking through my recent work. There was a long rubber hose that went nowhere. There was also a seemingly empty port on the top rear of the Airbox. I wiggled this lonely long hose onto the empty port thinking perhaps it should go there. NOW I’m thinking perhaps that was the purposely vacant vent tube from the gearbox that I may have plugged into a sealed hole on the Airbox. Guess I’ll wiggle the tank off x3/1week and remove that line. Rear drip didn’t start until after I did that.
View attachment 30573
Click to expand...
The seal/gasket on my '08 Stelvio started to leak at about 40K miles and was dripping from that slot in the bell housing, when the shop disassembled it you could see the gasket had failed so even the dodgy ones could last a significant amount of time. Nearly 20K miles since the fix and no problems since.
 
i just ordered the blow by hoses for both sides $60 a piece. my hose started to dry rot where they hook into the separator box.
the mist was collecting on a air box tab. its filled completely with oil. then it drips on ground when on kickstand
harpers has them in stock
camphoto_342241519 (2).jpg
 
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