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Le Mans Mk3 specs, settings and manuals

J

jerryS

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 8, 2024
Messages
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Location
Auckland, Auckland,New Zealand
Hi there,
I've just bought a almost-running Le Mans Mk 3 and I'm trying to make it go.
My bike is pretty much original and still has an airbox & filter.
Can anyone tell me where can I get a Haynes (or similar) manual.. and/or a guzzi workshop manual.
I'm new to Guzzi. As I'm going through the usual suspects (fuel,spark etc) I'm finding it difficult to get a definitive answer to basic setup questions.
For example I read that the static advance should be 8deg BTDC.. but then I see another post that says that was in the 80's when we had leaded gas and I should retard it 2 deg for modern gas.
I still have original points. Can anyone recommend an electronic replacement?
My carbs are DellOrtos PHF36 (round choke) with the following:
Atomizer: AB 258
Pilot: 50
Main: 125
Idle: 70
Does this look normal? I've seen all sorts of variations in my research.

My RH cylinder is missing badly and the engine won't run.
I've stripped an cleaned the carbs and I'm pretty sure that the problem lies elsewhere.
Compression is around 155 & 160psi. The bike has done 55,000 km.
I'm now checking the static timing.. The crank timing marks are badly wrong.. I've made myself a timing wheel ...
I'd love to know what the best timing should be.

cheers
Jerry
 
OK, I put 50K mi on my 3, no issues w/timing etc. Factory only has a supplement on another manual to show you the differences to that model. So you need a 1000Sp/G5 manual & the Lemans3 supplement. Both are right here in downloads I'm pretty sure.
Timing is at 8*, bull about fuels just use high grade. I use 90 non ethanol.
If your marks are off & not in line w/motor timing someone may have put flywheel on wrong while changing clutch plates. Specially if you have deep splines. Those were prone to clutch hub wear when new, might last 15K mi. Deep splines came out in 93
I have a Dyna 3 in mine. Points are set L & R with the turning dist & moving sub point plate for other cylinder. Easy once you understand how it works.
What you have in carbs is stock EPA lean stuff, that depends on intake & exhaust you are going to use. There are better jetting combinations.
Start by setting valves at TDC on ea cylinder at .009" then time it. carbs is last thing.
 
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Thank you Steve. That's most helpful. I got the LeMans supplement and couldn't find the 850 manual.. that's cos I was looking for the wrong thing it seems. Mine's an '83. I'd still like to find a Haynes as well if I can cos I like pretty pictures ;)
I have stock exhausts and the original airbox .. so fairly restrictive I guess. I have no plans to change the intake or exhaust at this stage.
I understand how the points work. A bit fiddly but ok. I set them today after finding TDC by taking an equal measurement to the piston crown before and after TDC and halving the difference .. with a homemade timing wheel. Started her up and now at least it runs but now spitting on both pots and won't idle.. I think I'm on the right track. I'll redo it tomorrow and see if I get the same TDC using this method (I marked the flywheel) and double check my timing setting.
I must confess to not checking the valve clearances. Reason was that according to the last owner, it was running sweet then something 'happened' and it started misfiring so I'm looking at other stuff first.. but I do take your point (no pun intended)
I have mixture screw 1.5 turns out. Plugs are both a little sooty, but I don't think that means much until I get the basics right.
Another question.. sorry to carry on.. the float level. .I've seen 2 different measurements for this .. the supplement says 17.5 - 18.5 mm .. other sources say 24mm. Mine seems to be 22.3 (hard to measure). I'm reluctant to mess with it until I get a ruling on this.
Thanks in advance (definitely no pun intended)
Jerry
 
.. for anyone else reading this. .after a bit of searching, the manuals from thisoldtractor.com are free and high quality, readable pdfs.
A big thank you to Gregory Bender for the site. I tried on this site but don't have sufficient permission to download.
 
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YAY, got her running.. tickover nice and slow and even. what a joy to behold.. I made a bigger timing wheel with better accuracy (160mm) .. found a nice wheel here: blocklayer.com/degree-wheel and a bent bit of wire for a pointer.
I can confirm that the crank timing marks for TDC are 6.75deg off .. maybe a tooth or two? Set static timing to 8deg BTDC spotty wotty.
Reset the valve clearances.. they were all too tight. Set the plug gap, was too big.
Polished the rocker covers, they were way too dirty.
Whatever i did, it worked!
 
That sounds good. I have had to remark flywheels starting at absolute TDC with a grease pencil cause flywheel was put on wrong. Degree wheels come in handy.
 
Todd here has a pretty impressive manuals for download in the Download section on top right next to Forums.
You may need to donate. But still a very large selection and gets bigger all the time.
I am in the middle of resurrecting my 84 white from a crash in 07, Sport 1100 front end and rear wheel in a modified swingarm.
I ran out of cash for the project. I did sort out fairing mounts & headlight (LED w/a V in center). Too many bikes, gotta keep the running ones running.
 
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