Read the error codes with the flash tool. Likely not a coil. The plug wires are friction fit into the coils. My bet is one or both aren’t fully seated.
Oh, right, ECU codes via the FT. Forgot I have that capability now. Duh. Great idea, thank you!
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Read the error codes with the flash tool. Likely not a coil. The plug wires are friction fit into the coils. My bet is one or both aren’t fully seated.
Yes, good... and not the issue. 130 & 136 are sensor heaters = deleted. Check what I suggested since you just replaced them.Ah ha, now we are getting somewhere. P0130 and P0136. Both error codes for the right side O2 sensor. I'll poke around the wiring and see if I see anything obvious. Looks like there's some voltage tests I can do as well per the manual. Will also swap them let to right to see if the problem follows the sensor. To be continued....
Oh, OK, so those two codes are now normal with the new flash tune? Why only codes for the right side sensor and not the left side?Yes, good... and not the issue. 130 & 136 are sensor heaters = deleted. Check what I suggested since you just replaced them.
Valves were adjusted about 500 miles ago but I'll check them again. Good idea.Check valve clearance again if you haven't already. Also look for air leaks in the intake track for the left side. Lean will run hotter.
I thought it did but I'm questioning that. I have Todd's ECU flash and Todd tells me the O2 sensors are ignored with the tune. One thing that is consistent is that it's worse when cold. I do recall that I rode the bike when cold and experienced the issue. Came home and unplugged the sensors, then took it right back out and noted improvement. So I'm wondering if what I actually experienced was just the bike misbehaving when cold and getting better when warmed up. I'll try swapping sensors left to right. I dont think I ever did that and I'm getting right side O2 sensor faults (P0130 and P0136) but Todd tells me that's normal with the ECU flash so I've been ignoring them. Will be interesting to see if they move to the left side.You unplugged your O2 sensors and the misfire disappeared. It will run rich without the O2 sensors connected, that is normal.
Replace that RH O2 sensor, or as you already suggested swap them over to see if the fault moves to the LHS.
I thought it did but I'm questioning that. I have Todd's ECU flash and Todd tells me the O2 sensors are ignored with the tune.
I have Todd's ECU reflash on a Cali 1400 that I purchased from Todd, and it has the O2 sensors replaced with wideband versions. This is used in conjunction with the Dynajet Power Commander and Autotune. If your reflash doesn't include the Dynajet additions, then yes the O2 sensors are ignored and can be removed.
Check valve clearance again if you haven't already. Also look for air leaks in the intake track for the left side. Lean will run hotter.
If this becomes inconclusive, I would try swapping the O2 sensors. I'm getting the feeling that they are still in service, otherwise why would they affect the misfire when disconnected? Something doesn't make sense.
Are you sure that anything is even wrong and your not just being paranoid?Well Gents, the mystery continues. I've done the following:
1) Removed the GTM flash and went back to stock.
2) Checked valve adjustment. Both sides, intake and exhaust, were spot on.
3) Compression test. Both cylinders at 205 Psi +/- a couple pounds.
I'm going to throw the stock exhaust back on and limp it up to an independent shop (my local dealer went bust). I'm out of ideas.
LOL, that's always a possibility! I've not yet been able to find any references to what exhaust temps at the header should be and what sort of differential between the two is considered OK. If someone can assure me that a 60 degree temperature differential between the cylinders is normal, then great!Are you sure that anything is even wrong and your not just being paranoid?
I had. Snowmobile with exhaust temp sensors on it and one side was always hotter then the other, it never bothered me. Are you hitting the rev limiter? My buddy road my bike and was a experienced rider he didn't realise he was hitting it. He had the same bike as me but I had Todd's 2 into 1 exhaust and maybe the louder sound through him off.LOL, that's always a possibility! I've not yet been able to find any references to what exhaust temps at the header should be and what sort of differential between the two is considered OK. If someone can assure me that a 60 degree temperature differential between the cylinders is normal, then great!
As for the misfire, well, that's not normal. I've put 6,500 miles on the bike and this all started about 200 miles ago. It's 100% not normal if we take the previous 6,300 miles I've ridden it as the baseline for what "normal" is.