Ken Miller
Just got it firing!
Need to adjust the play in my clutch lever (was getting hard to shift into neutral) and can't believe the owners manual does not give specifications. How much movement, measured where?
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Need specs for clutch lever adjustment on '14 V7 Stone
- Thread starter Ken Miller
- Start date
pokeyjoe
High Miler
2mm play - gap in the lever to where perch meets. You should be able to slip a nickel in there.
Sounds a little tight. I've always gone with 3-4mm. Also to the original poster, check the angle of the arm at the back of the gearbox. Lever should be close to 90 degrees with the clutch disengaged (clutch lever pulled in).
Brian UK
GT Reference
Yes, you must start at the gearbox end and check that lever first, otherwise the clutch will never work properly. That's 90 degrees to the clutch actuating rod, the line through the centre of the box.
sign216
High Miler
The irony is that I thought Pokeyjoe's "a nickel's width" sounded a little loose.
So the non-consensus is 1 - 4mm.
From the Nevada Manual
At the risk of contradicting what is in the owners manual, I also think that 3 - 4 mm is a bit loose. Here is my two cents worth (sorry, no nickel here).
The key at the lever is to have at least a little play. No play can mean that your clutch slips and / or wears out. The other key, as mentioned, is to have the lever at the gearbox at close to 90 degrees, not just 90 degrees to the clutch actuating rod but 90 degrees to the cable. I like to see it set up so that it starts on one side of 90 degrees and as the lever is pulled and the system moves it crosses 90 degrees and ends up just on the other side of 90 degrees. It is one of those things that is easier for me to say than type.
If the OP has an issue with getting the bike to go in or out of neutral he may be having a clutch drag issue. If that is the case less play at the lever combined with making sure the lever is at the right angle may help.
The key at the lever is to have at least a little play. No play can mean that your clutch slips and / or wears out. The other key, as mentioned, is to have the lever at the gearbox at close to 90 degrees, not just 90 degrees to the clutch actuating rod but 90 degrees to the cable. I like to see it set up so that it starts on one side of 90 degrees and as the lever is pulled and the system moves it crosses 90 degrees and ends up just on the other side of 90 degrees. It is one of those things that is easier for me to say than type.
If the OP has an issue with getting the bike to go in or out of neutral he may be having a clutch drag issue. If that is the case less play at the lever combined with making sure the lever is at the right angle may help.
pokeyjoe
High Miler
From the V7II manual (it was the same on my 2012):
Pokeyjoe, Thanks for providing the updated specification. I have no idea why it changed, but apparently it has.
sign216
High Miler
...and modern nickels seem thinner too.