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Norge 2013 1200 GT 8V Throttle Adjustment Question

Guzzi2Go

Guzzi2Go

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
May 8, 2023
Messages
46
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Hi to all, I have a, new to me, 2013 Norge 1200 8v GT that I would really like some help/info on concerning the throttle adjustment. I have no previous experience with fuel injection guzzis, or fuel injection in bikes in general, my other bikes being a 850T and a 1995 Harley. My new 2013 Norge throttle has quite a bit a play in the twist grip AND, at lower speeds there is no ability it make a smooth zero throttle to low acceleration. In traffic its just jerk, jerk, jerk when trying to drive slowly. If guzzis had a primary chain I would say it severally loose (I know, Guzzi don’t have primaries!).
1) Is there a way to smooth out zero to low throttle operation?
2) How much play should there be in the throttle and how do you adjust it?
3) What is the ideal idle speed? currrently its about 1200 rpm.

Thanks for your patience and your help
David
 
Try a few searches. All topics well covered here.
 
Very little slack, almost nill. Adjust on top cable coming out of throttle housing. Twist adjuster & locknut under a rubber cover on cable not far from housing.
1200 is fine for idle
It will be fine once you take up the slack.
 
V700Steve said:
Very little slack, almost nill. Adjust on top cable coming out of throttle housing. Twist adjuster & locknut under a rubber cover on cable not far from housing.
1200 is fine for idle
It will be fine once you take up the slack.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve will give it a try after finishing my coffee.
 
Only a warning. Don't try to trim the screws of throttle under tank manually. They are regulated from Guzzi plant (originally in Marelli plant) and are regulated for correct air flow and to avoid unsafe locking position. Use a diagnostic sw tool to reset the TPS position after checking that all engine is in good condition, thottle body and filter clean, spark plugs ok .etc. Follow the workshop procedure to balance cylinders.
Rpm 1150-1200 are ok.
Pay attention that a low slack on twist grip doesn't mean necessarly a good driveability. The electronic control unit reacts to request of driver but has to respect the exhaust emissions limit before. So ECU needs to read correctly all data in input to perform the best behaviour.
 
Thanks for the info. I’ve started to read up on reading and adjusting the TPS settings. A bit different than just replacing the plugs, checking timing and balancing the carbs on the 850T 🤨
 
Do not adjust the idle speed!! It is set on a flow-bench, never to be changed. The screw is on the aft end of the left throttle body.
We have written pages about this "sacred screw" over the years. Everything in this generation of F/I refers back to the left throttle opening. The stepper motor and the TPS are calibrated to match that setting. Tempting, but DON'T TOUCH THAT SCREW!
We have come a long way from your 850T :) . The 1200 idle speed works real well with the light flywheels on modern Guzzis.
 
Nordicnorm said:
Do not adjust the idle speed!! It is set on a flow-bench, never to be changed. The screw is on the aft end of the left throttle body.
We have written pages about this "sacred screw" over the years. Everything in this generation of F/I refers back to the left throttle opening. The stepper motor and the TPS are calibrated to match that setting. Tempting, but DON'T TOUCH THAT SCREW!
We have come a long way from your 850T :) . The 1200 idle speed works real well with the light flywheels on modern Guzzis.
Click to expand...
Good, got it. Don’t screw with the Screw. I’ve taken up a little of the throttle cable slack at the cable adjuster and that has helped somewhat. Guess I’ll get used to the higher idle. Do all modern Guzzi run at the higher idle speed?
 
Take out all the slack as in any more & it'll idle up. I move bars all the way to the right cause cable routing is on the left under tank by frame. The idle when cold is controlled by a stepper motor. All the CARC models idle at 1150-1200 and have a target rpm in the ECU.
Do some searches and find out more about it!!
 
V700Steve said:
Take out all the slack as in any more & it'll idle up. I move bars all the way to the right cause cable routing is on the left under tank by frame. The idle when cold is controlled by a stepper motor. All the CARC models idle at 1150-1200 and have a target rpm in the ECU.
Do some searches and find out more about it!!
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve, I've been doing some reading (alright a lot) over the last couple of days about the Norge, TPS operation and fuel injection systems in general. I did though adjust the slack at the tight point in the cable, ie all the way to the right. Thanks for the info.
 
Slight correction on Steve's notes above. Most CARC 8Vs are set to idle @ 1250~1350+ RPM. The higher the air temp, the higher the idle.
 
This may be totally academic at this point but it is illogical to think that you will obtain smooth enough throttle response at super low speed transitions without the need to feather the clutch in and out of the friction zone.

Throttle input is only half of the equation. Smooth engagement of the clutch and driveline is required as well.
 
You may find this very helpful and informative. I wrote it for the Stelvio but it is the same for the Norge.

www.guzzitech.com

Syncing Throttle Bodies- Stelvio 8V

thanks John. Maybe I can find someone with the equipment willing to help me do it here in Austin TX area. Ultimately I'll end up buying the gear. My bike has only 2800 miles so it go awhile just fine. Seems to vibrate like a Harley at idle, and remain a little rough until really smoothing...
www.guzzitech.com www.guzzitech.com
 
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