My Norge has been in storage for 12 months and when I rode it for the first time after storage the rear brake pedal kept going down with no braking happening and I got a little frightend as this was not how I remembered it. Has anyone got any clue to what has happened and what I can do to fix it.
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Norge rear brake pedal disapearing under your foot?
- Thread starterSquardy
- Start date
Sounds like you have air in the line. Need to check and bleed it.
My 2007 Norge did this repeatedly. As stated bleeding it normally cured it temporarily and was the cheapest cure. I had the master cylinder changed with no effect under warranty. Only after warranty when I changed the ABS unit did I finally fix the problem. Thankfully somebody sacrificed their Norge so I could buy a used unit. (Bought one from a salvage yard)
Motech
Just got it firing!
Well that's discouraging, as my 07 suffers similar, inexplicably random air intrusion that bleeds right out.
Is there a special bleeding procedure for this system?
No, I would just bleed it normal. It got to where I could do it on the side of the road. Even when I swapped the unit I just did the pump and bleed. The problem I was worried about was if the salvage unit had the same problem as it seems common.
My 2012 stays consistent but unfortunately it is consistently a long throw before I get a brake. I had to install an offset toe pedal on the lever so I could push it far enough down for it to work.
My 2012 stays consistent but unfortunately it is consistently a long throw before I get a brake. I had to install an offset toe pedal on the lever so I could push it far enough down for it to work.
Redcliffs
Just got it firing!
I just purchased a 2015 Norge and noticed that there is a lot of play until you hit brakes. I was wondering if that was normal
polkpr
Tuned and Synch'ed
My 2014 seems to have an unusual amount of play before the rear brakes start to kick in too.
I'm changing over to some lowered pegs and hoping that this will bring my foot down enough that the dead zone will seem less since I'm starting from a lower position.
Breva1200
Just got it firing!
Bleed the brakesystem once a year. Last week I did and the back as well as the front brakes were subsequently much better.
I'm still looking for a way to bleed the brakesystem inlcuding the ABS-system on my own.
Anyone?
I'm still looking for a way to bleed the brakesystem inlcuding the ABS-system on my own.
Anyone?
kiwi dave
GT Reference
I believe Speed Bleeders are the way to go. I intend to get some, but I'm confused about the number of sizes available. Anyone know which one fits what Guzzi model?
My Brembos came with bleeder screws already in place - I just attached a vacuum bleeder pump, kept the reservoir filled, and pumped it through... I'm not sure Speed Bleeders would make that much difference.
The speed bleeders are a bleeder with a built in one way valve. If you use a vacuum bleeder as you do (and I do) you won't likely see much of an advantage to the speed bleeder. But for those that do the old fashioned pump / hold/ release method the speed bleeder is an improvement.
I installed new Vesrah brake pads front and rear in my 2012 Norge this week. What a difference in the front brakes. Smooth and progressive. Plus I don't sound like a school bus when stopping.
While doing the rear I pumped the brake pedal to push the pistons out some controlling the travel of each piston with my thumb. I then pushed them back in. My thought was if the long travel was caused by a trapped air bubble in the master cylinder I could push it out. It worked. My pedal now travels much less. I had already bled the system normally but I have seen occasions in the past where there has been a trapped bubble in a master cylinder.
Here is my installed offset brake lever toe.
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