Norge Tupperwareand Tabs, helpful info:

[oca grassa]

Concur on the weirdness of the multiple different size/type screws to hold a panel on. I have several other bikes and none of them require as many different fasteners to do the same sort of job.

Like you, I’m planning to replace some fasteners to reduce the # of different sized wrenches/sockets I need to remove panels for routine maintenance access.

Don’t get me started on BMWs weirdness in their attempt to be different just to be. Based on my experience with an R1150GS, I’m staying far away from BMWs.

The only one I like is the R1100/1150/1200S anyway. Even then, only the styling.

 

[Guzzi2Go]

A quick update to this discussion with pics showing the use of Shoe Goo and fibreglass cloth to repair the cracked N8V site panel and JB Weld with aluminum backing support to repair broken tabs. The SG with cloth was great on the back of the panel not not suitable for sanding or painting. Hence a thin bead of JBW in the crack, applied from the back before the application of SG and cloth. All seem really firm now yet with a bit of flex that you would not have with fibreglass resin. or straight JBW.

 

[Guzzi2Go]

A quick update on the N8V Tupperware repair. After shoe goo and fibreglass cloth on the back, JB weld on the front to fill and smooth the break, I masked off the bottom of the panel, sanded and prepped the top. Primed and used GM black metallic and finally used spray Max 2k clear Glamour as a top coat. You can’t tell the difference from the Norge original black finish. I just have to buff out the match tape line. Makes me wish I had done the whole panel. The match line is along the bottom of the Norge badge.

 

[Raven]

Nice job. It looks great.