Norge Windscreen Button(s)

[seb]

As a respectable engineer and long time rider, I was dismayed by the placement of one of the two switches for operating the electric windscreen. Page 66 of the owner's manual even states that operating both at the same time will damage the machine. A trip around the web produced a nifty little switch that solved the problem. Part number 679-1420-ND from www.digikey.com cost $31.75 and is a momentary on-off-momentary on. Apparently this switch is used extensively on military aircraft. With some minor grinding inside the switch housing and a slight enlargement of the hole, the thing fit the Norge perfectly. I also used my bench grinder to make the securing nut round instead of the usual hex pattern. The whole job took 30 minutes. As to the wiring, the up and down switches each have a 12+ wire. I wired these together. For the other two wires, just remember which wire is up and which is down so the orientation of the switch is correct. On the other side of the handlebars, I have a rubber plug in the old hole for now until I figure out what I can put there.

 

[cmgies]

Brilliant! Keep us posted on how it works out.

Michael

 

[seb]

I took a 200 mile trip yesterday and a 200 mile trip today and I am here to report that using the windscreen is much easier now.
The new switch is metal and nearly indestructible compared to the "Plahsteek" switch(es) that I took out.

 

[erix2]

Looks good Seb !....wouldnt mind doing that mod, its awkward trying to operate the right hand button with your left hand...:silly:

Luigi`s designer colleague must have 6" thumbs....:unsure:

I have a m8 who works for CPC Farnells who is going to try to cross-reference the switch next Thursday after hols.

Eric B)

 

[erix2]

Mmm...struggling to get a switch for this job...:S

Cant get it cross-matched with anything near over here. The manufacturers, Apem components, have a depot over here but want an eye watering £41..US$67 to supply me with one. They price the switch at £31...US$51..alone...hmy:

When you consider the switch costs around US$31 in the States this is ridiculous.

I guess I`ll put up with it for now....grrrr

Eric B)

 

[Matteo]

Good job, this has always bugged me but I always forgot about it when off the bike. Thanks for the link.

 

[lti_57]

I like that
A small sealed toggle switch very cool
I am going to do this I don’t jack around too much with the wind shield mine is usually up but who knows come summer i might like it lower for more air flow
thanks

 

[ITSec]

I'm just getting around to doing this mod, since my wiring to the handlebar switches seems to have gotten lost somewhere - no power supply to either switch, so I'm running a new one. Unfortunately, the schematic for the windshield motor wiring is sketchy since it was an option on the European bikes, and I'm wrestling with figuring out which point on the relays the wires from the switches go to. Manual tracing is so time-consuming, so any help is appreciated...

 

[PP-1753]

There are a host of different suppliers out there who carry the same or very similar switch, you just need to get on the inter-webby-thingy and do some finger walking. if I need something at this end, either for work or home, I first try RS Components, then Element 14, if that draws a blank, there is DigiKey, Pasternack, Radiall, TE Connectivity, CK Switches and a host of others.

Talk to the manufacturer reps, visit their sites, send off emails. Sometimes (when the stars align nicely), some of the manufacturers will provide you with "sample stock" and at no charge to you - awesome, but you have to ask - you no ask, you no get!

Look on fleabay too, you would be surprised what can be had for little cost out there. Don't accept mediocrity,cos that's what you'll get. There are a lot of suppliers/retailers/wholesalers out there that are not interested in doing one-offs - find someone you can work with and let others know who to deal with.

 

[ITSec]

A bit more wire-tracing than I really wanted to do indicates the following:

• The relay pins that go to the windscreen motor are pin 3 or 30 (micro relays use 1-5, big relays use the old 30 and 8x numbering).
• The switches are fed by a common positive (wired separately, but from the same source) that uses green wires. The return wires from the switches to the relays are color coded.
• The factory wiring has a (very) weak design point where the source wires for positive and ground coming from the main harness are crimped in a one-into-four split, about 6 inches from the connector - the ground side had broken, and the positive was not in good shape. REPLACE THIS JOINT WITH A PROPER ONE!
• The entire windscreen sub-circuit is connected to the main harness by a single two-wire molex style connector at the head-stock, just below the ECU. Everything else is in a wrapped harness just for this system, including the two relays under the upper left cowling that provide the reversing current. Start any troubleshooting by checking for current at the connector, then at the relay pins, then at the handlebar switches. The weakest part is that 4-1 joint, followed by the relay and switches.
• Be careful handling the connections to the windscreen motor itself - these are not well designed or reinforced, and can easily be broken, leaving a functioning motor unusable.

My unit now uses the same style switch as described by Seb in the original post. Much improved...