• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oil in Airbox

PhilW

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Aby,Alford,Lincolnshire,UK
Hello all ,

When I purchased my 2014 V7 Stone a couple of years ago it had just been "serviced" by the PO ( not himself but a garage ) Apart from fuel lines not reconnected properly so left leg got covered in petrol the first time I rode it the bike was really good . It looked looked like new and was standard apart from rather nice Mivv silencers . However after a few rides I noticed a fair amount of oil in the airbox . Looking on this forum and elsewhere I checked the oil level and there was about 2 litres in the bike . I dropped the amount to 1.5 litres ( as low as I felt comfortable ) and the problem decreased but did not stop . I am a bit OCD and really did not like this . I removed the airbox out and took it apart to see how things were inside . I cleaned out the " sponge " bits in the crankcase breather area and came to the conclusion that the main problem was not the oil level in the engine but a basic design flaw . I think as the " sponge " oil collectors get saturated the incoming air from the rocker covers actually collects more oil than it deposits and " spits" this into the airbox . I pondered this for a while and came up with this . I replaced the 3 way pipe connector which leads to the sump with a 4 way connector and ran the "spare" pipe up and over the inlet manifold , then backwards under the tank . Here I added a small fuel filter ( later changed to a metal canister type which I removed the small paper filter inside and replaced this with wire wool to condense any oil ) A pipe was then run down to the bottom of the bike as per pictures . I plugged the outlet hole into the airbox with a plastic number plate screw . I put the oil capacity to 1.8 litres which equates to full mark on dipstick when screwed fully in .
After running the bike like this for a year I checked the new filter and virtually no oil inside and so obviously no oil dripping from pipe under the bike . If you put your finger over the pipe you can feel air coming out when the engine is running so the breather is working . I am guessing that either the original oil collection system is now working or the oil is condensing in the vertical pipe leading to the little filter and returning to the sump . Either way I am happy but would like to hear if anyone can see a problem with this set up :)

V7 Filter and Pipe Routing V7 Breather Connection 2
 
Hello. It seems that you have concocted a rather complex solution to a well know issue. However, there is no design flaw, but only operator error.

People who constantly chase the FULL mark (It’s actually the MAXIMUM mark, not the FULL mark - anyplace between the 2 marks is FINE), invariably end up having oil sucked up in the crankcase vent and blown into the airbox.

The very simple solution to this is to not chase the MAXIMUM mark. Ideally, the midpoint between the 2 marks is PERFECT.

If the setup that you have created pleases you, then I say be happy with your choice and enjoy your motorcycle. 😁👍
 
Hi , as I said in my first post the oil volume was 2 litres when I purchased the bike ( full mark on dipstick dip method ) but I reduced it to 1.5 litres ( the lowest I was happy with ) and the bike still puked oil into the airbox . After modification I run the bike with 1.8 litres of oil in which is the full mark with the dipstick screwed in ( half way between the marks using "dip method" ) I find it more consistent to check with the dipstick screwed in :)
 
Hi , as I said in my first post the oil volume was 2 litres when I purchased the bike ( full mark on dipstick dip method ) but I reduced it to 1.5 litres ( the lowest I was happy with ) and the bike still puked oil into the airbox . After modification I run the bike with 1.8 litres of oil in which is the full mark with the dipstick screwed in ( half way between the marks using "dip method" ) I find it more consistent to check with the dipstick screwed in :)

Yes, I understand and I did read your entire post, twice, before responding.

As I said, “If the setup that you have created pleases you, then I say be happy with your choice and enjoy your motorcycle. 😁👍”.

There is residual oil in the line when it gets sucked up in the first place and this can take a while to fully clear out if the lines are not removed at completely purged.

One thing of concern to be mindful of is that your design has significantly increased the back pressure to the crankcase. Although air is escaping, it is most likely at the expense at an increase in internal crankcase pressure. Over time, this can eventually affect the main seals on the crankshaft, causing a premature failure and corresponding oil leaking past the seal.

Just something to be mindful of.

Again, I’m happy that you have found your solution adequate for you, but I still believe that a properly setup motorcycle, doesn’t require such an elaborate system in order to function properly. YMMV.

As I have said many many times here, the engineers who designed your motorcycle, are not a collection of wine swigging country bumpkins. There are numerous, in fact the majority, of stock condition Moto Guzzi motorcycles, that run perfectly as designed.

Best wishes.

Scott
 
Scott , thanks for taking the time to post . I do have two comments . I don't think I have added significantly , if at all , to the back pressure in the crankcase . Taking into account the small diameter of the hole in the airbox all the lines and fittings are larger diameter and the filter is only loosely packed with wire wool so I hope the pressure is the same or a bit less . As for design it would be nice to think that all manufacturers produced the best possible product but production costs have to come into it and if the breather system was that good on the V7-1 why did they change it on later models :) I am , by nature , a cynic ;)
 
I can probably answer that instead of Scott or Todd... Because in this day and age of tree- huggers and
the Green Deal here in the U.S.A. and abroad, we have to keep adding shit to ICE to make them more
efficient in saving the planet, and costing consumers more in everything we purchase...Besides, it doesn't
matter anymore how much time and money is put into a vehicle to meet the regs, as everybody very soon should
have electrical means of transportation and ICE will be a thing of the past, so says the shepherd, so says the flock.
 
All comments I agree with . This is though not a new thing . I have a 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100 . Back when I first purchased it I spent a bit of time on the ZRXOA . There used to be a guy there who spent an amazing amount of time on rolling roads etc to optimise his bike . He came to the conclusion that the majority of the emissions work was done was done in the slow/idle jet portion of the carbs ( this is where most of the testing was done at the time ) and the main jet area was fine . Because the idle and off idle response was not very good ( weak mixture ) Kawasaki employed a Throttle Position Sensor (KTRIC) This adjusted the ignition timing at low throttle openings to overcome the problem . If the carbs were jetted " correctly " ie ignoring / overcoming emission regs the TPS could be removed / unplugged and the bike ran better than before . I did it and he was right . Complexity added by the manufacturer to appease , as has been said, the tree huggers :)
 
Back
Top