Hi all, I've been fighting with a running issue on my 2007 Breva 1100. this is starting to become an annual occurrence, usually just before I have a big trip planned...
starting about two months ago my idle starting to get a bit erratic. starting with the idle going high, about 50% of the time it would go to 2000 rpm and sit there. 10% of the time it would idle super low and nearly die. pulling in the clutch and moving forward just slightly would almost always make it drop back down to the normal 1200 rpm. I pulled the intake apart and cleaned the stepper really well, flushing it while cycling it (key on/off). that helped and instances of high idle dropped to maybe 5%, which I was okay with.
then on a trip into the interior of BC I noticed high fuel consumption and a certain hesitation at steady, low throttle - like cruising at highway speeds. I poked around for a while - over the last few years I've replaced / adjusted almost everything on the bike that could cause this, but I double checked *most* of my work I eventually settled on dirty injectors, and had them cleaned - bike ran perfect, better than it ever had. great, problem solved.
except... last week the hesitation started again, teamed up with the idle problem, and got worse pretty rapidly.
-=- it usually starts immediately, about 5% of the time it takes an unusually long time
-=- maybe 50% of the time it idles very low, maybe 800 rpm. sometimes it will die completely
-=- about 10% of the time it idles high, 2000 rpm
-=- just off idle the motor bogs badly until about 1/8th throttle - after that it clears out and runs normally
It's pretty much unusable in this state and I'm panicking since I have a huge trip planned in two weeks.
I have checked:
-=- freshly rebuilt/cleaned injectors seem to be installed properly and sealing well
-=- reset TPS. verified TPS (new last year) operation with meter
-=- replaced air filter... just because I was in there, really
-=- removed intake/air box, verified all hoses are in place and nothing is leaking
-=- verified plug wires are seated properly and in good shape (these are all new as of two years ago)
-=- pulled the exhaust apart to check the O2 sensors - just visually
-=- mechanically the throttle body linkages seem fine... there's no excess play or anything I can see or feel
I haven't checked the valves yet, they're not due and frankly they've almost never required adjustment since the initial adjustment more than ten years ago.
I haven't balanced the throttle bodies, I just can't imagine they would rapidly cause this. Both these things are next, just because I was planning on doing them anyway before the trip.
I'm suspecting the O2 sensors, just because over the last two seasons I think I've replaced / checked / verified every other single part of the motorbike that could cause this.
I have the GTM full fueling kit, PC V, AT-300, full exhaust and intake plate. I bought a laptop and plugged it into the PC V but couldn't get it to give me AFR values or show a RPM. this is probably just a learning curve thing, I'm still figuring out the software. maybe I didn't let it run long enough, there's a parameter that specifies a delay time before the unit wakes up. I'll know more this evening.
the power commander / dynojet support guy I talked to was lovely. there's an O2 sensor test that the AT-300 unit can do, and it failed this. the O2 sensors are supposed to get warm and the unit blink to show what they are reading, and they do not warm up at all. he suggested this almost always means the O2 sensors are bad, but for both to go at the same time? maybe... he also sent me a file to 're-initialize' the AT-300 unit, on the chance it has become corrupted. he has suggested this is unlikely, and if the AT-300 was bad it wouldn't communicate with the power commander software at all. the power commander software does show it connected.
searches here have also led me to wonder about the cam phase sensor... will clean / check the connection later.
anyway I'm just rambling, will update this later this evening with some actual useful info.
wish me luck!
starting about two months ago my idle starting to get a bit erratic. starting with the idle going high, about 50% of the time it would go to 2000 rpm and sit there. 10% of the time it would idle super low and nearly die. pulling in the clutch and moving forward just slightly would almost always make it drop back down to the normal 1200 rpm. I pulled the intake apart and cleaned the stepper really well, flushing it while cycling it (key on/off). that helped and instances of high idle dropped to maybe 5%, which I was okay with.
then on a trip into the interior of BC I noticed high fuel consumption and a certain hesitation at steady, low throttle - like cruising at highway speeds. I poked around for a while - over the last few years I've replaced / adjusted almost everything on the bike that could cause this, but I double checked *most* of my work I eventually settled on dirty injectors, and had them cleaned - bike ran perfect, better than it ever had. great, problem solved.
except... last week the hesitation started again, teamed up with the idle problem, and got worse pretty rapidly.
-=- it usually starts immediately, about 5% of the time it takes an unusually long time
-=- maybe 50% of the time it idles very low, maybe 800 rpm. sometimes it will die completely
-=- about 10% of the time it idles high, 2000 rpm
-=- just off idle the motor bogs badly until about 1/8th throttle - after that it clears out and runs normally
It's pretty much unusable in this state and I'm panicking since I have a huge trip planned in two weeks.
I have checked:
-=- freshly rebuilt/cleaned injectors seem to be installed properly and sealing well
-=- reset TPS. verified TPS (new last year) operation with meter
-=- replaced air filter... just because I was in there, really
-=- removed intake/air box, verified all hoses are in place and nothing is leaking
-=- verified plug wires are seated properly and in good shape (these are all new as of two years ago)
-=- pulled the exhaust apart to check the O2 sensors - just visually
-=- mechanically the throttle body linkages seem fine... there's no excess play or anything I can see or feel
I haven't checked the valves yet, they're not due and frankly they've almost never required adjustment since the initial adjustment more than ten years ago.
I haven't balanced the throttle bodies, I just can't imagine they would rapidly cause this. Both these things are next, just because I was planning on doing them anyway before the trip.
I'm suspecting the O2 sensors, just because over the last two seasons I think I've replaced / checked / verified every other single part of the motorbike that could cause this.
I have the GTM full fueling kit, PC V, AT-300, full exhaust and intake plate. I bought a laptop and plugged it into the PC V but couldn't get it to give me AFR values or show a RPM. this is probably just a learning curve thing, I'm still figuring out the software. maybe I didn't let it run long enough, there's a parameter that specifies a delay time before the unit wakes up. I'll know more this evening.
the power commander / dynojet support guy I talked to was lovely. there's an O2 sensor test that the AT-300 unit can do, and it failed this. the O2 sensors are supposed to get warm and the unit blink to show what they are reading, and they do not warm up at all. he suggested this almost always means the O2 sensors are bad, but for both to go at the same time? maybe... he also sent me a file to 're-initialize' the AT-300 unit, on the chance it has become corrupted. he has suggested this is unlikely, and if the AT-300 was bad it wouldn't communicate with the power commander software at all. the power commander software does show it connected.
searches here have also led me to wonder about the cam phase sensor... will clean / check the connection later.
anyway I'm just rambling, will update this later this evening with some actual useful info.
wish me luck!