Power Commander User Guide and Install info

[GTM®]

Rev. 10/23
Updated for newer users since the PDF attached here was VERY old. Please visit PowerCommander.com to download the installation PDF aligned to your model and Power Commander version (if older). All PC6 use Power Core software - it is NOT backward compatible. In each model section (here on GT) is a how-to for installation. Unfortunately, some of the images have gone missing. Dynojet's PowerCommander.com has a PDF for each model that is very close (outside of the 1400 - which is only available at GTM).

To begin, if your bike is not properly PDI’ed new or recently serviced, it MUST be in top shape as to ALL service settings (valve lash to name one), throttle bodies balanced (as applicable), fuel injectors professionally cleaned/serviced if the bike has any age on it, or has sat for even a few months. Modern (ethanol based) fuels wreak havoc on injectors; Do not add fuel injector cleaner or pretend yours is fine. They likely aren't. Also, older bikes may have intake or exhaust leaks, be low on compression, or even the evap system has a leak. We've seen it all. Check EVERYTHING. The PC/AT isn’t a magic wand for running issues related to all of those. Often it will simply make things worse, and we are always to blame for your bike not running well to begin with.

As a general rule of thumb here, it is PARAMOUNT to ONLY use this on Guzzis that've had the ECU "flashed" by GTM's Flash Tool.
Once the installation is completely done, for both the flash and Power Comm, you can connect to the bike using your (Windows only) PC with the supplied cable. Start the bike. If it fires at it should, you will see the % throttle on screen with the bike running. If it doesn't fire, check your connections. The next and first step you MUST do is set the Min/Max range for the Throttle Position within the software. This is a critical step and is NOT the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) reset done by the GTM Flash Tool.
Allow the bike to warm up for 1.5~2 minutes to close the cold start procedure.
Once it is, make sure the PComm software shows it's as close to 0% at idle as can be -- You may see some bounce or fluctuation, which is OK. Out of the box, it might show as high as 5~7%. Setting the Throttle Position (TP) range within the software tells the Power Comm where closed throttle idle is, and where 100% throttle is, which aligns the actual PC map to your bikes throttle and RPM range. Do NOT IGNORE THIS STEP. You also need to verify that you see it climb when you twist the throttle. This process is ONLY done through the PComm software drop down Menu. If you are not 100% sure on this, either consult with a PC Tech via PowerComm.com or watch their online tutorials.
Also note: If it says 100% when you key on, you have the TP wire connected to constant voltage if on the TPS. If you did, it will meter at 5v, if on the fuel pump connector it will show ~12+ V (yes many people have mistakenly done this per posts below). Be sure you know what and where your TPS is located ON the throttle body.

Every PC purchase from us is sent with a map aligned to the mods of your bike (that you tell us) when you purchased it from us. Do verify you see the notes that confirm this on screen. If it is different, or you've made changes, email us. You may have to Navigate the menu selections to find it on the newer version software. You can always connect with Dynojet online via the HELP in the software, or call them for help via phone: 800.992.4993 -- As a note here, some of the units are NOT listed or shown on their website. Newer Techs there do not know of my history or the help I am given to fit these to newer models by the Head of R&D there. Also, do not allow your Tech to tell you that they cannot help you with basic questions like TP reset. You can tell them that Todd of GuzziTech is the one that sold it to you, per above.

Mapping and Trims: IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU NOT REVISE THE AFR TABLE OR ACCEPT THE TRIMS, NOR CHANGE THE MIN/MAX RANGE TO MORE THAN +/- 10% AS SENT. PLEASE JUST PULL AND SEND THE MAP AS IS TO US TO HAVE A LOOK FOR YOU. This is because it gives us the data we need to see to detect any issues, both in installation and running. This is a lifetime free service we offer when purchased from us, and we do so fairly promptly if in our time zone. We also STRONGLY recommend you send it to us (again, without accepting Trims) any time you have a running issue, or at EVERY Service or Seasonal changes (Summer vs Winter fuel blends for example). NOTE: The PC6 does NOT show you (the user) the base map we install. It only will show you the overlay and Trim correction tables. Just pull and send as is each time.
We cannot offer instruction or tell you why we don't want you to do this on your own; We often see maps that have had issues and the Trim accepts compounded the problem. Also, the unit is sent to not turn AutoTune on for 60 seconds -- Do not alter this. Nearly EVERY time we see a map where the bike is running poorly, it's because these were modified/accepted without emailing us. This system is an AMAZING tool when used properly, and quite the opposite when people don't or worse, think they do.
This is not open for discussion here. If you want to learn, pay the $3500 fee and attend class at Dynojet Vegas and learn for yourself, then add 30+ years of tuning in order to debate us here.

Thanks to all those over the years that have purchased and enjoyed this technology. We have worked endlessly since 2001 to be able to push to have these available for most all Guzzi models.

 

[Penis Rotor]

Re: PC-V Pre-order *ONLY* - Limited Run NOW

OK, so I'm pretty thick and haven't used a PC of any sort before so perhaps Todd can clarify this for me.

Looking at the info that came off the disc and the written instructions for the Auto Tune model what I'm seeing is that I install the whole box and dice as shown in the instructions. Plug the laptop into the throgmorton box after I've warmed the bike up and hit the 'Are you feeling lucky punk' button and then it'll use the input from the O2 sensor to self-build a map which I can then 'Lock in' to the PCV?

It all looks very straightforward and simple. Am I missing something????

Pete

 

[Zapa]

The PCV will power up just with the USB current. No need to switch the key on or heat the bike just yet.

That should show you the map on your screen. The name of the map will be shown in the "Map 1 notes" part of the window.
That map is the base map on which the AutoTune will work. The closest it is to your wonder map, the better, as it'll take less runs for AutoTune to adjust the trims.

On the left you can select the AutoTune AFR map and it'll show in the middle window.

Now you can ride your bike and the base map will be reading the trim corrections AutoTune is making.

 

[Penis Rotor]

OK, do I have a problem? when I attempt to calibrate the TPS I'm getting Minimum Voltage of 1.065 and a max of 1.065 and a sensor value the same Recalibrating is achieving nothing. Am I perhaps connected to the wrong wire?

Pete

 

[Zapa]

If I recall correctly the procedure starts by pressing the RESET button first, then throttle up to 100% (key switch on, no engine), then accepting the results. However I think the voltage changed no matter what... Reset just prepares to read 0 to 100% values.

 

[GTM®]

OK, do I have a problem? when I attempt to calibrate the TPS I'm getting Minimum Voltage of 1.065 and a max of 1.065 and a sensor value the same Recalibrating is achieving nothing. Am I perhaps connected to the wrong wire?

Zapa is correct on above.
You should see a real time voltage read out in the center, and you should see it change when you twist the grip. The gray wire of the PC-V should be on the variable voltage wire of the TPS. It was red on the Stelvio I did, but verify. Assuming you pierced the wire sheath with the connector. If you think you have, try starting the bike and see if anything changes. A couple bikes I've done required it to be running whatever odd reason. 100% is just a quick stab to full throttle while running, and select OK. You should see a real time voltage read out in the center, and you should see it change when you twist the grip. Post again with your result.

 

[Penis Rotor]

OK, what is happening is I'm getting a voltage reading varying from what i said above 1.065 to 1.080 This reading is constant across max/min and what is being read. when I twist the throttle the reading goes up to about 4V but when it is fully open it returns to the 1.080V reading. Re-setting achieves nothing.

Also are the PC and Autotune supposed to have LED's that illuminate when the ignition is on? On mine what happens is that the power and staus lights flash as the dash is going through its cycle and then go out. No sign of life after that until I plug in the laptop when the 'Power' light comes on on the PCV but nothing happens to the autotune?

Is it a dud? Am I a dud? What's my name? where am I???

Pete

 

[Penis Rotor]

Oh and also on the main page of the PCV page the throttle percentage sits at 0% but intermittently flashes to 100% but shows no other changes regardless of throttle position. It all points towards a TPS problem but everything was sweet before the install and I dont see how unplugging and re-plugging the connector can of stuffed anything???

 

[GTM®]

OK, what is happening is I'm getting a voltage reading varying from what i said above 1.065 to 1.080 This reading is constant across max/min and what is being read. when I twist the throttle the reading goes up to about 4V but when it is fully open it returns to the 1.080V reading. Re-setting achieves nothing.

Are you selecting OK before you exit out to the main screen? If yes, try starting it, because...

Also are the PC and Autotune supposed to have LED's that illuminate when the ignition is on? On mine what happens is that the power and staus lights flash as the dash is going through its cycle and then go out. No sign of life after that until I plug in the laptop when the 'Power' light comes on on the PCV but nothing happens to the autotune?

It should stay a constant green on the PC-V, and Red on the AutoTune when running; It will flash when in warm up mode. Repetitive flashes when running is trying to tell you of an error.

 

[Penis Rotor]

I'm uploading some pics to Flickr but when the engine is running I'm getting what I presume is an accurate reading of Duty%, I've got accurate RPM but the % Throttle is flatlined at 100%.

It is also stating AFR is 999 but it's smelling as rich as buggery. There's definitely something very wrong.

Pete

 

[Penis Rotor]

It should stay a constant green on the PC-V, and Red on the AutoTune when running.

Autotune is flashing when the engine is running? I've double checked all connections and the AT must be getting a power feed otherwise it wouldn't flash at all. I'm assuming that one live feed from the number plate light switch is the only power feed to both the AT and the PCV? There doesn't apear to be any other feed and no mention of one in the instructions?

Pete

 

[Penis Rotor]

Light show with engine running but the AT light flashes constantly.

As you can see, with the engine runningThrottle % is sitting at 100%

With the engine off it's still showing 100% but periodically will show randome other amounts!

Service light is on all the time but I assume that's just 'cos the O2 sensor is no longer connected to the ECU? Permanent ECU error of )) which I am assuming is O2 sensor as it's the only thing that's out of kilter!

Pete

 

[GTM®]

I'm uploading some pics to Flickr but when the engine is running I'm getting what I presume is an accurate reading of Duty%, I've got accurate RPM but the % Throttle is flatlined at 100%.
It is also stating AFR is 999 but it's smelling as rich as buggery. There's definitely something very wrong.

The % Throttle must read 0% at closed throttle, else nothing will work. Did you verify it's connected to the varying voltage TPS wire (regardless of color)? The AutoTune's LED will flash and read 9.99 until it is at operating temp. Then you will see a real-time read out on the screen.
You do not (yet) have the ECU flash, so you have to leave the stock 02-sensor connected and reset everything (including TPS in the Axone or VDST), and do not touch the fuel cells in the map of the PC-V below 40% throttle.
The PC-V is powered from the injectors.

 

[Penis Rotor]

Aha! so that's it! I thought the new O2 sensor was part of the autotune package! sorry, as I said, I haven't played with a PC before. No worries. I'll stuff the old sensor back in tomorrow and see if that makes it behave a bit more sensibly!

Thanks.

Pete

 

[Penis Rotor]

OK, well since I've got this silly O2 sensor that doesnt have a function I suppose I'm obliged to buy the pox-ridden re-flash?

Now I know this probably grates with some but I actually LIKE the stepper motor and I LIKE, or at least understand why, there is a closed loop portion of the map.

While I can understand your sketicism having put the wretched thing on the Dyno I've actually found the Fat Duc to be a very usefull tool, it certainly seemed to address all the *issues*, albeit small, I was having with my bike in that area. What I'm interested in is comapring as many different systems and set-ups as possible. I wasn't planning on springing for the re-flash yet but my understanding of the whole sorry mess was obviously wrong so do whatever 'White Man Ju-Ju' you do to that other ECU and fling it in the mail and I'll PP you the cash.

It'll be interesting to see how the whole box and dice behaves with the PCV and autotune controlling the 40%+ and pressumably certain rev fuelling and the Fatso-Improbablo, (I too was deeply skeptical!) mucking around with the O2 sensor signal.

Definitely NOT knocking the product Todd. Just showing off my ignorance, which is fine, we're all ignorant to start off with

Pete

 

[GTM®]

Aha! so that's it! I thought the new O2 sensor was part of the autotune package! sorry, as I said, I haven't played with a PC before. No worries. I'll stuff the old sensor back in tomorrow and see if that makes it behave a bit more sensibly!

Did you get the %Throttle to read properly in the software yet? Without the ECU flash, you'll need to add the second 02-bung (supplied with the AT kit) for the new wide-band sensor (in addition to the stock 02/lambda). I'll add your ECU to the huge stack I have here waiting for me to get to... and let you know when it's ready.

 

[rocketman]

"Without the ECU flash, you'll need to add the second 02-bung (supplied with the AT kit) for the new wide-band sensor (in addition to the stock 02/lambda)"

Todd,
I will be facing the same thing as Pete (No ECU flash). I misunderstood this. How about this approach, can I just install the PCV without the Autotune? Therefore eliminating the need for the second bung and wide band sensor? I would simply run your pre-installed PCV map.

Later when I get the ECU flashed I will install the Autotune and Wide band sensor.

 

[Penis Rotor]

Did you get the %Throttle to read properly in the software yet? Without the ECU flash, you'll need to add the second 02-bung (supplied with the AT kit) for the new wide-band sensor (in addition to the stock 02/lambda). I'll add your ECU to the huge stack I have here waiting for me to get to... and let you know when it's ready.

Nah, that's this morning's task.

OK so you need to add another bung for the WBO2 sensor< ican understand that. But if you do that, and leave the original in place? Won't you end up with the ecu taking a signal from the original and then tryingto correct anything done by the AT. And then the AT will try and compensate for what it sees as a lean condition etc. Ad-infinitum?

Also, if I'm replacing the original O2 sensor I take it I just remove or coil up and hide all the cabling from the *new* O2 sensor and tuckit up in bed somewhere? That being the case and the AT not getting info from the O2 sensor what is it going to be doing? Where will it get any information to allow it to tune in the +40% range? If it isn't going to auto-tune then effectively the PCV is simply a PCIII is it not?

As I said before I'm groping in the dark here. I am not entirely dim but I'm NOT au-fait with the system and am simply trying to get a better grasp of how it goes about achieving what it does.

Pete

 

[GTM®]

I will be facing the same thing as Pete (No ECU flash). I misunderstood this. How about this approach, can I just install the PCV without the Autotune? Therefore eliminating the need for the second bung and wide band sensor? I would simply run your pre-installed PCV map. Later when I get the ECU flashed I will install the Autotune and Wide band sensor.

You can install the PC-V without the AutoTune for now yes, provided I have a map/loaded... and you can add the AT when you get the ECU flash done.

 

[GTM®]

OK so you need to add another bung for the WBO2 sensor< i can understand that. But if you do that, and leave the original in place? Won't you end up with the ecu taking a signal from the original and then trying to correct anything done by the AT. And then the AT will try and compensate for what it sees as a lean condition etc. Ad-infinitum?

Stock ECU/lambda is good up to ~<40% throttle, where the AT wide-band lambda will take over, so no, the stock ECU/02 will not be looking to modify what the AT/02 wide-band is revising. I've preloaded your PC-V/AT unit to reflect only these areas for you already. Plug and play once you get the TPS sorted.

Also, if I'm replacing the original O2 sensor I take it I just remove or coil up and hide all the cabling from the *new* O2 sensor and tuckit up in bed somewhere? That being the case and the AT not getting info from the O2 sensor what is it going to be doing? Where will it get any information to allow it to tune in the +40% range? If it isn't going to auto-tune then effectively the PCV is simply a PCIII is it not?

Once you swap ECUs, yes you could tuck the stock 02-sensor if you'd like, but why not remove it/same with the new AT/WB 02 if not using it. If you install the AT/WB 02 with the stock ECU, see above. If you chose not to use the AT right now, then yes, it would be just like a PCIIIusb, correct.