Power Commander User Guide and Install info

[GTM®]

I have a question on the Autotune throttle calibration, Does the minimum value indicated on the PC when you do a calibration relate to the TPS value ? It appears that on my bike it does. My VDTS value is 4.8 after a reset and my minimum throttle position voltage on the Autotune calibration screen is .480. So my question is after doing a TPS reset via Axione/Navigator or VDTS should not a Throttle Position calibration be done also ? Am I all wet here or stumbled upon something everyone should know and be following ?

Dan, only the PC-V can be calibrated, so as not to confuse... the PC-V works off of the TPS voltage, so technically it would be good practice to do the PC-V TP reset when you reset the TPS, yes. However, the PC-V has a default to handle a slight variation, but this would be a good thing to document/verify. Thanks for the post on it.

 

[rguzz]

When configuring Autotune, do we tick "Require Engine Temp" box, if so, what "Minimum Temp" in box. Or is our package off Todd not have this function yet? :roll:

 

[GTM®]

When configuring Autotune, do we tick "Require Engine Temp" box, if so, what "Minimum Temp" in box. Or is our package off Todd not have this function yet? :roll:

There is no temp data being supplied to the PC-V, so *no*.

 

[draidt]

Ride Report

Just back from the VA Rally, It was the first time I had the Norge
on the Blue Ridge in the present configuration with the Hyperpro springs, PCV/AT A/B lid and new Pirelli Diablo tires. Awesome improvement, did not matter if I was at 500 ft or 4000 ft elevation, just keep it in a gear to keep the rev's at 4000 rpm and it pulled like a freight train, I am not the greatest canyon carver by all means but the combo of the springs and tires allowed me to traverse those curves at least 10-15 mph higher with very little mid turn corrections needed.

 

[Githianki]

Got all my goodies in the mail and installed it last night. Took it for a quick spin, reset the TPS in the ECU, and on the PCV. So all is well, I go for a 350 mile ride today, bike averages 41mpg right now. (Mistral Slip on stock airbox and filter), but I have a few issues.

Issue #1 The bike will sometimes idle like crap. It will surge between 900-1100 RPM, and the bike looks like a paint mixer just standing there. I did the stepper motor removal at the same time, so I'm wondering if I pinched a hose or something when I was doing the re-install of the airbox.

Issue #2 I get home and hook the laptop up to look at the values, and when I have the bike off, key on with the laptop hooked up, the AFR initially come us with 9.99, and after a few seconds will shoot up to 699.99. If I start the bike, the AFR will go to a steady number like 13%, I will then shut the bike off, and the number will start to rise, and end up with the 699.99 number after a few seconds to a minute.

Any thoughts?

 

[draidt]

Issue # 2 is not an issue with out the bike running, those crazy readings don't mean anything

Did you do a complete Stepper removal or the bypass kit ?

I had the same idle conditions initially, reload Todd's initial map back in and then access the Auto Tune map, zero out the target AFR at zero throttle position say up to 2000 rpm, do the same at 2% throttle position for the same RPM range. See how that works.

Opps forgot to add to re-balance the Throttle Bodies.

 

[Steak]

Todd,

Still haven't gotten this thing dialed in yet. I'm having nearly identical issues as Roper had on page 1 except for the fact that I have the reflashed ECU and O2 sensor installed. My problem is in the PC-V calibration of the TPS. The response on the PC-V software is somewhat flat, just as Pete had described. I've checked and rechecked all of the connections, and verified that all was installed as described in the instructions here at Guzzitech.

I find myself scratching my head with respect to the TPS wire tap (red wire on TPS plug) I have verified that I have a good spear into the tapped red wire, but no variation on the PC-V software when the throttle is opened (with or without the bike running.) Likewise, I am not getting any variation on my multimeter when I check voltage at the tap (grey wire removed.)

When the VDSTS is connected, the variations in TPS are plainly apparent.

Any ideas? The obvious answer is that I am not tapped into the correct TPS wire, neither does the wiring diagram nor the workshop manual differentiate between the Red, Yel/Blk, Wht/Blk wires in the TPS loom.

I installed all of this gadgetry a week before the national and the bike has run ok on what I assume is the reflashed ECU and possibly the initial PC-V map, but I don't think I am as of yet getting any real benefit from this system. The only real change I've noticed thusfar is a high idle that keeps creeping in after being reset (via Axone, not VDSTS.)

Frustration has not set in yet, as I figure I'm just missing something obvious, but I could use another opinion/view.

- SD

 

[Steak]

As I suspected, I was missing something obvious. Instead of tapping into the variable voltage TPS wire, I had tapped into the power wire on the fuel pump loom. That doesn't exactly serve the correct purpose.

A phone call to Todd got me squared away and the GRiSO is running better than it ever has. I've done four Autotune map corrections which now has it pretty well zeroed in. It has improved the fast idle issue I've been experiencing (idle creeps up in warm ambient temp.) I am going to see if it's solved without resorting to a stepper bypass after another reset at MI.

Very happy with the outcome so far. Much smoother throttle response and power delivery. The butt dyno charts ain't bad either.

Thanks Todd.

 

[guzzi jon]

Due to my incompetance, I am not attempting to install the setup, Todd will be installing the full setup in my G11 shortly, look forward to posting the results....

 

[Githianki]

Also, be sure to only "Get/Send Map" and never "Get/Send Table" on your transmissions.

What happens if one does do that....I think I may have accidentally hit the send table button..... :unsure: :dry:

 

[Grisoguzzi]

Todd,
Finally got the PCV/AT installed and at this point well, I really do have difficulty believing the difference. Even the gear shift has become smooth!
After a map tweak by Todd - another revelation, even smoother across the board and pulling like a freight train.

Run for World President mate, you've got my vote!

Only one niggle tho'; at idle the bike runs at the expected 1100 rpm but, when warmed up it runs at 1400-1600 for about fifteen seconds before settling back to 1100. I had hoped that the trim would take care of this but no changes were given for the idle range by the trim. Is this a case of the stepper motor (still installed) screwing things up?
George
NB yes, I did check the tps via VSDTs (4.6) and PCV (0%)

 

[AllanK]

Hi Fellows (especially Todd),

Could you bear with my ignorance on a couple of questions regarding the PCV and Autotune. I have searched and read almost everything I have been able to find on the forum but can’t seem to find the answers for my queries.

Firstly I believe I have everything connected up right as the PCV shows the red light and the AT the green. I have fitted the ecu reflash, the airbox mod and highflow filter.

My VDSTS showed the TPS at 4.6 when I fitted all the gear. I then calibrated the PCV TPS and seemingly no problem doing that. I went for a fairly long “spin” and came back to check the trims etc. The trim table remained all zeros???? I then saw the earlier posts and realised that I too had made the mistake of leaving out the “jumper plug” from the top and put in the rubber plug instead. I changed that and went for another spin. The trim table now shows changes but only in the 80 and 100 percent ranges. All the rest still shows zero. When I start the bike to see any “real time” trim the indicators on the right hand side show the throttle percent at 100. Also the three small lights at bottom right (autotune, faults and connection, I think – I am not at my bike) are off except the connection light which is on. I then tried to recalibrate the PCV TPS but when it is warmed up, ignition on and twisting the throttle there are no changes on the min/max calibration screen and it remains zero for both. (If I do it with the ignition on and motor started the centre display [between the min and max] reads up to around 5 and then goes to zero. Everything then reads zero. So I can’t seem to be able to recalibrate the PCV TPS which I think when done will have the whole of the trim table getting numbers. Any ideas?

What exactly is the “fuel map”?

Thanks
Allan

 

[GTM®]

Allan, so (as I send the PC-V/AT), the connector cable (AT to PC-V) and end-resistor plug must be installed. Sounds like you got that resolved. The TPS wire reads millivolts, so if it's reading 100%, you likely have it connected to a power source. Several people have mistakenly connected it to the red of the 4-wire harness... this is the power supply to the fuel pump. Check it and report back. If it is correctly connected to the TPS wire (3-wire plug), then reset the throttle position range from the pulldown menu in the PC-V control software. Once the pop-up window is up, click reset, quickly twist/jab the throttle to full (engine must be running), and click OK. You should then see zero (0) on screen, and watch it slowly climb as you twist the throttle.
The Fuel map is the base correction map that resides in the PC-V. It is the baseline that AutoTune uses to correct from.

 

[Martin]

quickly twist/jab the throttle to full (engine must be running), and click OK.

What's the difference between doing this with the engine running or not? In the PC-V user Guide PDF I read:

TPS CALIBRATION
It is important that the PCV software % Throttle
reads 0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle.
If it needs to be reset, make sure the bike is fully
warmed before resetting within the PCV software.
With engine off, key on, click on Reset, open throttle to
the stop, then release, then click OK. The PC-V software
should now show 0% at idle and 100% at full open.

 

[GTM®]

Martin, some bikes require the motor to be running, some don't. I fault on the side of error when recommending having the motor running. It's a quick read either way, and accept.

 

[bella]

Todd (or anyone who is technically competent);

Bought a PC-V, O2 Oxidizer and CNC airbox from you late last fall for my 08 Norge and installed them over the winter. Bella has a stock exhaust. Testing time has been limited (NE weather), and it seems to run great, but I've had no success with getting the Auto Tune mode to come up in the software that you sent. In looking through this topic, I notice a little box called an "Auto Tune" in several folks photos. Am I trying to follow a procedure I don't have the hardware to do? Is it simply a matter that I'm asking the software to do something that it can't complete for lack of hardware? The bike runs great, idles between 1100 & 1200, and seems to be running cooler and strongly across the tach. When the laptop is plugged in and the bike is running, it reads between 3 and 4% on the idle screen. All numbers on the laptop chart are 0's. I assume it came programmed with a map for the Norge. Do I actually have nothing to do, or am I missing something in an Auto Tune procedure that I don't need additional hardware for?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[GTM®]

Bought a PC-V, O2 Oxidizer and CNC airbox from you late last fall for my 08 Norge and installed them over the winter... I've had no success with getting the Auto Tune mode to come up in the software that you sent. In looking through this topic, I notice a little box called an "Auto Tune" in several folks photos. Do I actually have nothing to do, or am I missing something in an Auto Tune procedure that I don't need additional hardware for?

Hi Scott, you bought the 02-optimizer with the PC-V, not the AutoTune. The AT is indeed an additional box and wide band sensor that can mainly/only be used with my ECU re-flash. Your kit is install and go, with nothing to fiddle with outside of some switches in the 02-optimizer if you don't like the fueling at lower speed throttle. Hope that helps. Feel free to contact me direct e-mail if you have any other questions.

 

[kiwi dave]

The little black terminal in the back of autotune with no wires off it, i took it out n plugged it with the little black grommet didn't i, must be some sort of fused link?

I'd say you owe the wifey a nice dinner or whatever. Yes, the jumper and dioded "termination block" need to be in place on the AutoTune in order for it to work.... one of the biggest reasons it's often near impossible to diagnose things over the internet. Glad it was found.

My AutoTune (2008 1200 Sport with reflashed ECU) appears to have stopped working. Since I never had the original map released with the PC-V, I created a base map of zeros except a value of 13.2 for 750 rpm @ 0, 2, & 5% throttle settings, and 20 for all the cells above this in column 0% throttle, and 10 for the cells above this in column 2% throttle. Went for a spirited 20 km (16 mile) ride, and no trims are being produced. Yes, AutoTune is switched on in the configuration dropdown menu.

I removed the little black terminal on the autotune (it sits next to the connector that goes to the PC-V -right?) and connected an ohmmeter between the first and last terminals. It measured 118Ω in both directions, indicating that this is not behaving like a dioded termination block as suggested above.

Can anyone please confirm that I have the right termination block, and if you think my link is faulty, which way should the diode orientate? I may have to dissect.

 

[beetle]

I removed the little black terminal on the autotune (it sits next to the connector that goes to the PC-V -right?) and connected an ohmmeter between the first and last terminals. It measured 118Ω in both directions, indicating that this is not behaving like a dioded termination block as suggested above.

Can anyone please confirm that I have the right termination block, and if you think my link is faulty, which way should the diode orientate? I may have to dissect.

It's not a diode, but the CAN bus terminator. Normally it's 120 ohms. So yours is OK. Do not dissect.

 

[kiwi dave]

Thank you beetle, that solves that issue, but not why the AutoTune is not working.

All connections appear fine, the red LED is alight (with an occasional flicker which I assume shows it's active), so I think my next move might be to whip out the wideband lambda sensor and see whether it coked up. Any suggestions on how to clean it will be greatly appreciated.