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Power Commander-V & AT-300 Install How-To for your California 1400

OK
So I got home last night and found my kit had been delivered, I wanted to start the install today but my wife reminded me that we have our daughters wedding today and I have to be there give her away......."Oh Yeah"
 
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Alright everything is in bike runs only thing I'm having problem with is getting a 0% at idle when I go to calibrate the TP, Per instructions I'm suppose to hit "reset" before blipping throttle but nothing on my screen ( see pic ) that says reset is active??
I have manage to get the idle position down to 3% ( was at 12% ) by using "auto set" as per Todd and bike seems to run fine though it does backfire now when decelerating but I'm getting ahead of myself as that can be fixed. My main concern ( if it is a concern ) is this Reset thing
Dyno screen.webp
 
EDITED: Your TPS provides a value between 0 millivolts and 5000 millivolts (or if you prefer the nomenclature, 5 volt) depending upon where the throttle is being held at.

The “blip” is to provide the ECU the full range of values from totally closed to totally open. I have usually seen it described as a full rotation open with a quick release so that the throttle snaps back to the starting position, rather than a blip.

This way the values at the lowest (closed) setting through the highest (open) settings are transmitted to the ECU & PC for calibration.
 
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Thanks Scott
I posted a pic of the screen to just make sure I have the right one and that I did not screw things up being I don't have a active reset button which ( I think ) should let me adjust the 3% reading I get at idle down to 0%?? Bike seems to run fine but instructions push for 0% at idle for things to work correctly. I emailed Dyno jet ( will call them later today ) but in the meantime I figured I'd also ask here.
 
TPS works on 5v. You can see the numbers in your photo below, and the red and green vertical lines are showing you the range. The white line (below right of green) is actively showing real time measurements.
The PC-V< > buttons are gone with the PC6 Power Core software (it’s a considerable learning curve for even me, and yes I’m annoyed the pic shows a PC-V). With the bike warm and running, checking the Auto Set box (below right) and a quick snap to full throttle should work. You can also try the Reset below the Min: box below and click OK to check, OR as mentioned direct email, you can manually raise or lower the millivolts circled below left to get 0%. The 1400 TPS bounces around (due to RBW), so be sure you see % movement on screen (once you return to the main screen) when you ever so slightly twist the grip. You should see 100% on screen at full throttle.

IMG_4916.jpeg
 
Do you have free play in your throttle cable? So many times I have seen guys who spin the adjusters on their throttle cables to try and take out any “slack” in the cable. That slack is supposed to be there.

FWIW: I do not ever remember seeing a physical zero value. That would indicate 0 millivolts which is unlikely.

The TPS reset sets the “logical” conditions with the “physical” conditions. The logical zero point will not be precisely 0 but rather the lowest indicated millivolts currently being read by the sensor.

TODD SEEMS TO HAVE YOU HELPED OUT. FOLLOW HIS DIRECTIONS PLEASE.
 
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Thanks Scott, I did direct email a few times as well, but he brought it here, which is fine.
 
GTM® said:
The PC-V< > buttons are gone with the PC6 Power Core software (it’s a considerable learning curve for even me...
Click to expand...
Hence my question(s) has been answered as far as the "Reset" goes! being I really thought that I loaded something wrong.
As mentioned Auto set brought the idle volt down to 3%, so ( last question here ) being I used the auto button can I still adjust volts to try and get it to 0% or it is what it is ( Yes I'm thick headed )
 
William H. said:
can I still adjust volts to try and get it to 0%
Click to expand...
Yes. Manually change the numbers right of the decimal and return to the Home screen with the gauge to see. Make VERY small changes each time. You can also try the Reset below the Min: box below and click OK to check. Revised wording above now as well.
 
I am having trouble downloading the Power Core tuning software. Do I need to log into DynoJet to get the tuning software? The link to download the Power Core C3 gets me to this point. I have a 2014 Custom.
 

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north2south said:
The link to download the Power Core C3 gets me to this point.
Click to expand...
You shouldn’t need to login to download. Try the link HERE
However, I do believe they make you create an account to use the software.
 
Will this run on windows 2008?
I can't seem to make any progress.
When I plug in the re-flash tool to my computer nothing happens. No ikon, just a sound. I cant figure out how to get anything onto the reflash tool. When I plug it into my bike and connect to the ECU it says file empty.
 
north2south said:
Will this run on windows 2008?
I can't seem to make any progress.
When I plug in the re-flash tool to my computer nothing happens. No ikon, just a sound. I cant figure out how to get anything onto the reflash tool. When I plug it into my bike and connect to the ECU it says file empty.
Click to expand...
Hard to catch these here, email is always best for purchased products. Did you get the email we sent you with a download link for the ECU flash tool program? Sounds like you might, but didn't read it, or click the link there. Emil only from here please; info @guzzitech.com
 
“Enjoy your new machine” indeed!

I installed a second-hand PC-V/AT-300 on my 2013 Custom, and man what a difference! The ECU I bought with the fueling setup was set for stock air and exhaust while my bike is more open with a K&N filter and Agostini slip-ons with the decibel killers in. Considering that the Fuel Evap system was still installed and the fueling was stock, the difference is amazing. I don’t have to hold my knees away from the intakes anymore even in the 100 degree heat.

I have the flash tool on order, so I’m looking forward to a better map for my hardware at that point.

This is the second fueling set-up I’ve bought from GTM (the first system was for a V7-850) and you really can’t overstate the improvement in the manners of the motorcycles after they’re fixed from the factory settings.
 
Scott Neves said:
I installed a second-hand PC-V/AT-300 on my 2013 Custom, and man what a difference! The ECU I bought with the fueling setup was set for stock air and exhaust while my bike is more open with a K&N filter and Agostini slip-ons with the decibel killers in. Considering that the Fuel Evap system was still installed and the fueling was stock, the difference is amazing. I don’t have to hold my knees away from the intakes anymore even in the 100 degree heat.
I have the flash tool on order, so I’m looking forward to a better map for my hardware at that point.
This is the second fueling set-up I’ve bought from GTM (the first system was for a V7-850) and you really can’t overstate the improvement in the manners of the motorcycles after they’re fixed from the factory settings.
Click to expand...
So worthy to note here, as many will read this, but you DID use the old ECU that was likely flashed, correct? You cannot install the PC/AT-300 without a GTM mod'ed ECU/Map. Also, not sure what map was on your PC, and/or did you set the TPS? Send me this info via email, not here please.
Appreciate your words on the last sentence. Not many do or will, and/or everyone loves to tell you why you don't need to do these mods, or you can get by with a sensor fooler.
 
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