Red 1987 Moto Guzzi v75 issues and CR Proj

[eco]

Still have to change the air filter which looks like a hell of a job. seeing were the filter housing lies. Comments please

 

[Morizzi]

Hard to tell the number of valves by the rocker covers. They are definitely not the normal 2V cover but look sort of different to the Lario too from what I can see. V75's came in both 2 and 4 valve variants.

Rocker gaskets should be re-usable if you are careful. Remove holding bolts and with a rubber mallet give the cover a few gentle taps forward or to the rear. Don't try and lift the cover. Hopefully the gasket will survive. I glue them to the covers with gasket goo and grease the joining face so they come apart easily.

Info on older small blocks if you haven't found it already:

http://guzzista.wetpaint.com/page/Older+Small+Block+Issues?

Lots of stuff on 4 valve remedies at the end of the article.

Front forks is usually ATF if they have dampers fitted. Probably around the 120ml area if they are 38mm tubes.

 

[eco]

Cheers for feedback Morizzi! Great link. Fork are 100ml each by the manual but it has a pressure valve on one fork top end with a hose conecting to the other fork, do I have to pump air or some sort of gas and how much(as can be seen on one of the pics).
Guzzi is a 4 valve because orded service kit and gave my frame and engine number to buy the right service kit! Reconditioned my rear master cylinder(brembo ps15) but with no success because, I did not manage to bleed the brakes, pumped away in vein just would not suck the darn brake fluid, but it seemed ok before mouting. I was very sad(but I am patiente grrrrrrrrr good thing I have a R6 to cool me off) because I wanted to have all brakes working fine before even tried to go for a short slow spin! Got a bit of a hill where I have my Guzzi.
Don´t know what I am going to do, new one is too expensive. Used could happen the same
Going to move on to reconditioning carbs. in the mean time.

 

[Carl Allison]

Thanks for the advice and feedback Pete, i´m on it, going to search ebay for new valves and lighter valve springs. Ebay is my lifeline because I don´t Moto Guzzi techs nor garage on my island.

See if "iceblue" is on this forum or join the wildguzzi.com forum where he frequently posts. He has the best handle on the small block 4V fixes of anybody around.

 

[Morizzi]

The brakes are a bit of a trick.

I pressure bleed them. I found a jar lid that fitted on to the rear master cylinder and fitted a seal and an air nozzle on it. I use just a few psi to push the brake fluid through. Don't use too much pressure or it will give you a shower! :shock: Just a few psi.

If you don't have a compressor then a tyre style valve and bike pump will do the same.

Others use a large syringe and suck the fluid through via the nipples. Up to you, both work depending on what you have.

Valves, as has been mentioned are the big issue with this model. I've accumulated any information pertinent to the valves at the end of that article. If money is no object then I'd go to a race engine builder and get some hardened stainless valves made. If money is an issue then you have a few choices of valve sources and springs. Replacement heads are rare aand getting rarer. You really want to avoid a dropped valve but if you do a good engine reconditioner may be able to save it by building it up with weld then machining back. I do mean MAY rather than WILL.

Sorry the article section on te 4V's is such a meandering disjointed piece but it reflects the different ideas and methods. I still don't know anyone who has done serious miles on one of the listed fixes so who knows?

Cheers

 

[sign216]

Thanks for the advice and feedback Pete, i´m on it, going to search ebay for new valves and lighter valve springs. Ebay is my lifeline because I don´t Moto Guzzi techs nor garage on my island.

See if "iceblue" is on this forum or join the wildguzzi.com forum where he frequently posts. He has the best handle on the small block 4V fixes of anybody around.

I agree with Carl; Iceblue is really on top of the 4 valve engine. He even tried to get some custom repro orders done so that unobtainable parts would be available again. He sometimes shows up here, but is more frequently on WildGuzzi or the Yahoo group MG_750. I think he also haunts a few Euro sites.

 

[eco]

Hi and thanks for reciente feedback Guzzistas.

With the brakes I´ve tried using a large syringe and suck the fluid through via the nipples which did not work. If I disconect hose going to caliper shouldn´t something come out of master cylinder(see pic where I am pointing too)?

I´ve have already mounted the speedometer drive, but am in doubt to which goes first so have pics. Which goes first? I used speedometer pics2, in other words it is facing inwards.

Does anyone know the tunning of the two screws onthe carbs? Like after tightening how many turns, example 2 and half turns on small and 3 turns on big to start with becuase then you need a slight after I guess. Already got a photo of carbs.

Cheers Guzzistas what would my Guzzi be without yuur feedback B)

 

[eco]

Will talk to blueice when I get to the valves!
The Photos I used of the speedometer are not mine(ebay) and the speedmeter are not of my bike but the concept is the same.
Cheers

 

[Morizzi]

1. Brakes. Ensure both feed holes from reservoir into master cylinder are clear. Ensure piston is not stuck and is moving, not just the lever. If not give it a good tap to try and free it or you may need to use a pin punch through the end you are pointing at. DOT 3 fluid is more slippery if the piston is binding.

2. Speedo drive. It will only work one way. There is a little tab on the rotating section on the inner side of it. That gets pushed around by one of the wheel spokes.

3. Carbs. Mixture screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out but that is just a starting point. Tune for best idle from there. In lean, out rich for the idle circuit. Idle screws should be where they need to be but balanced so each side is equal revs. Try pulling one plug lead at a time and see how each runs independantly.

If you are asking this question then you will also need to adjust the cables so they pull evenly.

Rod

 

[eco]

Have change engine oil, gear oil, rear drive oil, oil filter and new spark plugs.
Have to see how to change fork oil, do I have to unmount the hole thing?
Does anyone know if my choke is in the right place by seeing the pic?
I have already rebuild carbs but still have to mount then, but I want to change the air filter and have to see how to open the massive casing to change the filter.
Still haven´t got the rear master cylinder to work. :-(

Filipe

 

[gstallons]

Leave the integrated braking system alone.... You will get accustomed to it.

 

[eco]

Hi all.
Will be leaving the integrated braking system, Guzzista gstallons, for now, but it is still not working only the front right. Just have not got them to work but will recheck after suspension oil change. I´m am sure that I will have to buy a new or used rear master cylinder :-( next year. So I will not be going on my christmas morning test drive for sure :-(

Have unmouted the front suspension to fill 100ml each of the indicatored fork oil. I thinks its "here" as seen on pic1. Drained the old oil through hole as seen on pic2(or pic3) and after removed suspension turned them around to drain any left. I am not unmouting the suspension itself because hve not bought seals so maybe next time. After oil change and remounting on suspension will have to fill with air(pic4) 1kg/cm3 like the manual says. Hope all works out and don´t have to redo because of seals or other problem.

 

[Frederik]

Hi, have you managed to replace the airfilter yet?

I bought a V75 recently and need to do the procedure too!

 

[eco]

Hi there and congrats.
Looks better than mine! Finally a bike like mine! Good luck with her!
I haven´t changed the air filter yet, but after looking at the bike over the last months while working on it ,I think I will be able to take filter houseing through the back, by taking the seat, fuel tank, side fairing, carbs, rear mudguard, rear brake oil tank and tool box. I will let you know how it works out! Just have not had the time to do it!

Filipe

 

[Frederik]

If I get it done before you I'll post some instruction, with pictures!

Frederik

 

[eco]

Hope to hear from you Frederik. I don´t have Guzzi tec over here(Madeira Island-Portugal) nor have I seen any other Guzzi for years.
I did what I said and the housing is still conected to engine at the bottom and just don´t know how I will remove housing, there is even a wire (black/green) that goes in the air filter housing. I wish there was a better system than this one, it is to big, hard t access and complexed! :-(

Filipe
P.S. I´m dieing to go for a ride on my Guzzi(will I ever)

 

[eco]

Frederik have you ever change the integrated braking system oil yet and if so how did you procede and did you have any problems?

Filipe
P.S. Very sad because thought I was going to test drive on christmas morning. :mrgreen: Lets see if she´s ready be easter. :whistle:

 

[SED]

Frederik have you ever change the integrated braking system oil yet and if so how did you procede and did you have any problems?

Hello Filipe,

I did this a few days ago on my V50 with much neglected maintenance and it did exactly what you describe - when I opened the bleeder screw suddenly there was no pressure and the master cylinder seemed to have failed.

After messing with it a while in frustration I decided to try to pump up the fluid pressure by rapid and repeated pushing of the master cylinder piston with a large screw driver. The blade of the screw driver fits between the brake crank arm and the outside wall of the master cylinder. The blade should contact the end of the piston, not beside it. The screwdriver gives a longer and faster stroke than possible with the foot pedal linkage. The bleeder screws were closed and the brake system completely sealed. Plenty of fluid was in the reservoir.

Watching the fluid, it seemed like the master cylinder was drawing brake fluid very slowly and inconsistently from the reservoir. I would pump repeatedly for nothing, then suddenly the fluid level would decrease a little and there would be pressure. Once there was pressure, I could stop pumping, then pump again and the pressure was there on the first pump.

Once there was pressure I would open a bleeder screw and pump out fluid from one caliper or the other. Eventually I was able to bleed the system and get clear brake fluid through the bleeders. I also found that fluid draw was more consistent so pressure would return faster after doing this a while.

If you have removed hoses from the master cylinder you may find it takes more time, or you may have to bleed the master cylinder before reconnecting the hoses.

The brakes have been fine since bleeding this way (a week, though only about 20 miles riding) and there have not been fluid leaks. I am planning to rebuild the brake hydraulics, but at least I don't have to do it today.

I'm curious to know if this works for you. Good Luck.

 

[eco]

Thanks for feedback SED, will try and insist some more as soon as possible.
Thanks for the moral I´m feeling lucky Will let know of result.

This is turning too be a hell of a job but really want too safe her, seeing it is a rare bike and have not seen much CR of this version of Moto Guzzi, but I want to get it right!

 

[Frederik]

Filipe Have you got this picture?
It shows all the connections and hoses.