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Several questions on my 2012 Norge

abbienormal

abbienormal

High Miler
GT Famiglia
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
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Location
Edgewater, FL
1) I see on here many people go to the NGK SB05E plug cap. How does this work since the original has a 90 degree bend on the top?
2) When performing a cannisterectomy do you put a balance tube between the inlets or just plug the holes with a sealed bolt?
3) How many miles do the flat tappets last? I mainly ask in that the bike has 2,900 miles on it and I will probably put 6-7,000 miles on it this year. I prefer to do the larger jobs in the winter.
4) Should I go through the dealer or direct to MG to ask for Kit A to replace my tappets? I have not decided if I want to pay a dealer or do this myself.
5) What possessed me to buy yet another Guzzi? :inlove::banghead:
6) Does the centerstand on the 8V drag as bad as the one on the 4V?

Todd, I'll probably be ordering suspension once I get these other kinks ironed out. It's in many pieces in the garage as we speak. Far more than I planned when I started.
 
1. The plug wire just folds nicely over. Very little stress.
2. Run part of the line off the cann between to two fittings.
3. I've heard them go as quick as 5-6k, and some go well into the 30-40k range. I would address it sooner then later, as you know it will fail in time.
4, Give the dealer your VIN#, and have them do the work for you, perhaps even warranty on the parts.
5. It's an addiction. Call 1.800.GuzziAnon
6. If you weigh over 175 lbs in gear, definitely doesn't take much in any "spirited riding."

Happy to get you sorted with the suspension. Every year that ticks by, the offerings get better.
 
There is no good way to bleed down the cam chain adjusters. You can get some of the tension off, but not enough in my opinion. Unlike a BMW oil head, where you can remove the tensioner plunger completely, this is not possible on the Guzzi. You still have tension on the cam sprocket when you try to get it back on the new cam. Save yourself the aggravation and have a dealer do it. See this https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/just-did-my-first-rollerization.15808/
 
A new question. While installing my side fairing panels I have found several discrepancies. For a bike with only 2,900 miles on it I am suspecting it has had a fair amount of work on it. Maybe those supposed driveway tipover scratches were more than a tip over.
The large main panels on each side are held on by several screws and in the middle part of it is molded to fit over (?) a rubber grommet that is on a screw on one of the mounts. Hard to describe as I can't even find the rubber mount on the parts list. Using page 40 of the parts manual on AF1's site the panels are 11 and 12. The rubber is I think on 13 and 14. One of mine apparently just pushed against the rubber and the other was popped over the rubber. Of course the one that was popped over was also torn. The large flange on the bolt and the way the panel will not go over the rubber makes me believe it should just push against it. There is no way to reach the screw and install it after the panel is on. Anybody know which way is correct?
Then, while checking how to reach the bolt for the rear shock I tried to remove panel 16 on the drawing. This is the matte black panel by the passenger peg. One screw at the top then I looked and it appears to fit over the lug for the peg/bag mount. Now this plate is held on by one regular bolt and one break away bolt that is broken away. Therefore it would be a real pain to remove. Looking at it I saw the bottom of the panel mount was split open so it could be pulled off but after removal and looking at it the way it is split looks like somebody split the plastic rather than removing the bolt. Or maybe it just spread too far and split. Is it supposed to be split? The panel is only $10 so I may just get a new one if it is not split and go out and encourage the breakaway bolt to come out and install a regular bolt.
 
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Going back to the plug caps/wires I am trying something out that so far seems to work. It seems the mechanic pinched the plug wires under the covers while reinstalling. I gotta replace that mechanic (me). I went to the local parts store and they had some 7mm wire with the connectors on it that I installed and the bike was fine. Now I am thinking there has to be something better so I bought a 8mm Taylor motorcycle Sumax 8mm Pro Comp Wire Kit #8605 from Amazon. The plug boots are a bit long but cutting off the larger top plus about 1/8" below was easy. Just score around the outside to halfway to the plug wire so you don't hit the wire and it tears right off. I did put a bit of silicone at the junction but probably overkill as it still had a nice fit. I have not ridden with this setup but starts and runs fine so far. Fits great and has a nice seal. I even put some silicone grease on the boots so it would be easier to slide over the plugs. They come in colors but I went with black. As a bonus I have 2 pieces of an extra 14 or 15 inches of 8mm plug wire in my spare parts collection.
 
To continue my saga I will post this update on my Norge.

I purchased the NGK SB05E plug caps. I also bought the XD05F caps with the 90 degree bend but they are too short for the Guzzi. I then took the rubber seals off the bottom of the XD caps and put them on the SB caps so it would fit the plugs better. This I then removed and did the plug cap/wire update I posted above. While at it I installed CR8EIX Iridium spark plugs and a K&N air filter. I also was going to change the fuel filter to a Mahle KL-145 all steel unit but when I opened the tank up I found it already had one.

I placed a piece of hose between the inlets for a balance tube doing away with the canister and gaining a nice glovebox under the seat.

I pulled the starter motor, cleaned and coated all connections. I opened up the Bendix and cleaned the grease off of it then applied a light coat of oil. I know, applying oil is debated but I prefer it.

How many miles will the flat tappets last? All I can say is at 2,900 miles there was a worn clear section about 12mm round on one lifter on each side. The left side had some pitting. Dealers sung the song of months before they could do it so I did it myself. Not a terrible job but a bit time consuming and $1,020 for the “A” kit from AF1 Racing. (Thanks again for all the help Canuck1969.) I did run into a problem in that my kit was short the needed half-moons that go in the rocker arms for the new roller lifters. I’d take full responsibility for losing them if I thought I may have but I cleared off the bench, laid out a towel, opened the box, laid out everything in the box and proceeded to work saving all packaging in case I can get a warranty claim and need them for shipping. They were nowhere. AF1 got right on it and sent me replacements. Unfortunately it had to sit for 6 days while I waited for them to arrive.

A few dollars sent to Todd has netted me an Ohlins rear shock and (hopefully, still waiting) the Matris front fork drop in kit to improve the handling. The rear shock dropped the back of the bike 5/8” and I purchased 25mm handlebar risers so I could slide the forks up ½” in the clamps to match for those of us short of leg but having been riding it without sliding them up I am quite happy as is.

Another few dollars sent to Todd for a re-flash kit. I figure $100 a crack to the dealer for map upgrades of questionable fueling or $500 in one hit to Todd for a remapping that should make it run better and will allow me the option of putting the smoother collector pipe and a new muffler in the future. This go around was expensive enough running me over 50% of what I paid for the bike! As soon as it gets here I’ll post the results.

I installed the wiring kit from MPH to solve the starter relay problem. I know, I could have cut the wire as I did on my 2007 but I figure this way is cleaner and neater. Very easy to install and seems to work great.
I shortened the center stand stop to where the stand just barely clears the muffler for more cornering clearance. I did this mod to my 2007 when I had it. So far no earth to stand contact.

I installed the Aprilia seals #883246 for the saddlebag lids. My 2007 bags leaked till I did this and this 2012 had the same original seals so I just did it before I even checked. I have ridden a day in the rain with these and the inside of the bags were dry. Lids shut snug but a bit of silicone grease helps.

Other minor mods are Powerlet outlets in the fairing side panels. An SW Motech tankbag mount so I can swap my bag between the V-Strom and the Guzzi. This required an Agostini tank protector on the rear of the tank. A California Scientific windshield like was on my 2007. Saddlebag reflector decals off eBay and liners for the saddlebags to make it easy to load and unload.

Now I figure I should be trouble free for a while with a great riding/running Norge with some saddlebag scratches courtesy of the previous owners. I just need to put some miles on it before any major trips so I can wear out the OEM tires and put on fresh for a 4,000+ mile trip I have planned for this summer. I did get in 900 miles last weekend. All fine.
 
I realize many of you don't care about my Norge mods but in case somebody has one and is looking for ideas I figured I would continue this thread. I have now put about 3,000 miles on it (5,900 total) and a few more mods. The GT-Rx reflash kit has cured the surging. No loss of the already terrible fuel mileage I mentioned before so that is a bonus. It runs smoother and either due to the mileage or the smoother running but it shifts better. Much cleaner shifts than when I got it. I have some popping on deceleration but Todd is working on that.
The OEM brake pads were grabby in my opinion and they squealed like an old school bus when stopping. I put Vesrah front and rear and it is soooo much better. Smooth, progressive and quiet. This modification was done at the same time as a set of Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT tires were installed. While I thought the original Pirelli's were good these seem to be a step above. The bike leans into corners much better and they have a good feel. They also performed well on the 5 or so miles of freshly (they were still doing it) tar and graveled road I was on in northern PA while circling Kinzua lake. Road tar on the front of my swing arm seems to be the newest mod. I am liking the bike a lot more as I ride it more. I just wish I had the white one instead of black. I keep threatening to paint it yellow or something other than black this winter. Just a lot of body panels to paint so I can lower the resale value.
Seems to make a lot of heat around the foot peg area. I am thinking it is the converter. That may be another winter project. More $$$.
 
AbbieN,

Noooo, I for one enjoy reading about your mods! And, a lot of what you are modding is what I am considering. Just need the money. I would like to know more about the reflash Kit. My 2015 does the surging thing to some degree - just enough to be aware of it - despite having "reset" the factory mapping. My Ducatis did that as well, and reflashing solved it for them. I guess it's all a "lean for emissions, coming into the US" thing.

+1 on the pilot road 4s. I've been running those on my Duc ST3s since the PR3 came out. Love the turn in and even handling! Way more than the Pirellis. My Angels on the Norge want to pull the bike in to a turn more at 3k miles than when new. Don't like that.

Cheers.
abbienormal said:
I realize many of you don't care about my Norge mods but in case somebody has one and is looking for ideas I figured I would continue this thread. I have now put about 3,000 miles on it (5,900 total) and a few more mods. The GT-Rx reflash kit has cured the surging. No loss of the already terrible fuel mileage I mentioned before so that is a bonus. It runs smoother and either due to the mileage or the smoother running but it shifts better. Much cleaner shifts than when I got it. I have some popping on deceleration but Todd is working on that.
The OEM brake pads were grabby in my opinion and they squealed like an old school bus when stopping. I put Vesrah front and rear and it is soooo much better. Smooth, progressive and quiet. This modification was done at the same time as a set of Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT tires were installed. While I thought the original Pirelli's were good these seem to be a step above. The bike leans into corners much better and they have a good feel... More $$$.
Click to expand...
 
I noticed the Angels pulling into a corner also but at the time I just thought it was the bike having bought it with 2,900 miles on it. Now that you mention it that is probably one of the changes I noticed with the PR4's. I had the PR2's on my 2007 and they were great. I only had 5,300 miles on the Pirellis but I plan some trips coming up so I figured it was time as there was not a safe trip left on them.
As for the reflash kit. I had mentioned before the dealer wanted $100 to flash the ECU so I figured it was a better bet to get the kit as I figure I'll probably do more mods and Todd will give me an adjusted map. It is fairly easy to do. My trepidation on doing it made it a lot longer the first time. The second and third went quick. You just load the software on a Windows laptop then go through the instructions. First you load the map into the unit. I think this matches the unit to your bike and it will not work on others. Then you send the map to Todd. He makes changes and sends it back for you to try. A lot like changing jets in a carb. No two bikes are alike but you don't smell like gas when you are done. To be honest Todd's first attempt made little difference. I contacted him and he sent another. This was better. The third one has the bike running much better but a bit of popping on decel under 4,000 rpm. I have contacted him on this and figure another map is coming. I already rechecked the valves and checked the tightness of all the exhaust fittings. When I put 325 miles on the bike Friday I did notice it was lessening. No popping till the engine got warm.
I don't know about yours but the surging on mine was horrible. I never had a bike that ran that poorly at a steady RPM. It was the worst around 3,000 to 4,500 rpm and that seemed to be where I spend a lot of time. On the freeway I was dropping to 5th and 4th gear to get rid of it as it drove me nuts. (Actually a short putt.)
The unit itself is a small touchscreen that you can use to reset the TPS, which you do each map change, and to check and clear codes.

https://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-5am-7sm-reflash-tool/
 
Thx AbbieN for the reply. I have a real buzzy vibration at 3800. I feel it in the grips. And, if I am keeping a steady rpm anywhere between 2500-4000, I feel the bike slightly surging. It's not horrible, but noticeable. Accelerating, it's fine. I've read that a remap even cures the vibration - right now, that bugs me the most. I like what I read about the reflash tool. And, the review that was posted there pretty much addressed the concerns I have - so, even more promising! Save my money, I guess.

Best regards...
 
You say you only have 3,000 miles on the bike. I found on my 2007 that at 5,000 miles it became noticeably smoother. At 10,000 it was even better. When I sold it with 26,000 miles on it the Guzzi was as smooth as my Honda PC800 Pacific Coast. I can already tell this 2012 has smoothed out in the time I have owned it. Possibly due to the reflash but might just be the mileage.
 
Thx AbN, I hope I am not giving a false impression - the bike is pretty nice aside from the 3800 rpm buzz and surgey steady throttle. Cruising (and acceleration, for a bike this size) are quite good. I'm generally enjoying the bike - it's nice for longer rides for sure (more comfortable than my Ducs). I'll see how things feel at 5k. Maybe I won't need a flash tool!? :mm:
 
I think the surging will require a flash. My 2007 was as smooth running as I could ask. I actually liked the power, delivery and smoothness of the 2007 better than the 2012. The rest of the bike I like the 2012 except the new seat.
 
Abbie - keep these cards and letter comings. Nice to read about your updates.

Side note on tires - I put 8,000 miles on my new Norge over the past year until the cords were showing on the rear OEM Pirelli Angel. I just replaced both with Conti Motions, and the difference in handling is amazing. Much lighter feeling, smoother, with great turn in. The only drawback is expected mileage - I've now gone through three sets of Motions on my Buell Thundebolt, and the best I've gotten out of the rear is about 6,500-7,000.

I must be the only guy out there without surging problems. I did round out the kinks in the charcoal canister hoses with some long springs inside, but never did have the surging or idle problems. I still have the stock canister set up. Also, I have to blow out the drain tube hole under the gas cap every once in a while to clean out the gunk (soap from washing?) in the drain tube that ends up at the swing arm and is connected to the canister tubing.
 
i thought about Guzzidiag. I could take a chance and do it myself or throw the responsibility on Todd. I bought his reflash kit and it fixed the surging after a couple reflashes and as I stated it runs much better. Since I hope in the future to get rid of the catalytic converter which roasts my feet in the summer I'll probably need another adjustment. Doing more reading and discussions with Todd means the current thought on the popping on decel is probably the stepper motor. I'll hit that sometime but as I live in Ohio and we have decent weather right now, though a bit hot, I am riding it. I just received my fork kit but I think that will also be a winter project. Hope to put 1,400 miles on it next week.
 
abbienormal said:
i thought about Guzzidiag. I could take a chance and do it myself or throw the responsibility on Todd. I bought his reflash kit and it fixed the surging after a couple reflashes and as I stated it runs much better. Since I hope in the future to get rid of the catalytic converter which roasts my feet in the summer I'll probably need another adjustment. Doing more reading and discussions with Todd means the current thought on the popping on decel is probably the stepper motor. I'll hit that sometime but as I live in Ohio and we have decent weather right now, though a bit hot, I am riding it. I just received my fork kit but I think that will also be a winter project. Hope to put 1,400 miles on it next week.
Click to expand...

All depends on your comfort level. Todd provides a great service and resources, but at quite a premium IMO. (See; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/guzzidiag-notice.16329/ - Ed, Todd)
I havent noticed any extreme heat, but I'm coming off a Gen 1 FJR so......... lol I do want to get ride of the cat, and go for a Y pipe eventually. Though it was a 2014 with 1500 miles, my Norge was a bit of a basket case, had a terrible first service. Valves were way out of adjustment, TB's way off, etc. Trying to cure a situation with bogging underload above 6Krpm. I think it is a fuel supply issue, and have a service appt with my dealer. The fuel gauge sender is bad, so they will change out the whole fuel pump/filter/sender which may solve the issue. Bike is still under warranty, so no worries from me.
 
Yes I paid $500 for the reflash kit. With it I can reset the TPS. I have to with each map download. I have no idea about the CO trim. The stepper motor will probably be a non item come this winter or sooner. I have many feeler gauge sets, carb sticks and worked on Hondas from 1973-1993 and can do all of my work if I so desire. I did the rollerization. My garage is heated, well lit and has a motorcycle lift. I just do not want to play around guessing with how to write a new fuel map. It may be easy but I am older now, not really up on programming and don't want to play with it. Todd has already done the testing and I just have to download it from him then to the bike. Then I go ride. To those of you who want to play with the Guzzidiag go for it. I bought the Techno Research for my 1400 and considered it a PIA so I opted for the easy route.
 
Hello Todd, my name is Benjamin. I have a 2008 Motoguzzi Norge. It's a beautiful motorcycle. But I feel as though the people who I have trusted to keep her running wonderful have forsaken her as well as me. They profess that my bike is a leaker. But the person that I bought the motorcycle from is a mechanic and he has done a wonderful job and keeping her running tiptop. As I bought it in for scheduled maintenance the mechanic that I bought her into made me feel as though he did not do The work that I paid him for. So I found a specialist in San Francisco and I have been the victim of going back-and-forth and back-and-forth to resolve one issue after another after another. Now, my bike still will not start when it gets hot, Which can be just as me riding down the street to the local gas station to get gas. We're taking her out on Highway one and being afraid to pull over for gas for not being sure that she will start again. The last two times she stopped on me, the battery was drained and I needed to get her jumped in order to bring her home. And the previous time before that, my motorcycle actually shut off on me while I was on the freeway and I had to have it towed back to the specialist to fix a problem that he had said that he had fixed. At this point I am very hesitant as to who I can trust to work on my motorcycle now. The previous owner has offered to help me, but I feel as though I will be taking too much advantage of him. Is there anyway that you can help me resolve this?
 
You can contact Todd using Todd@Guzzitech.com for email. I see you live in CA. I don't know if you can out there but several people, myself included, with the 2V Norges had starting problems that were cured by removal of the evap canister and venting the fuel tank to the air. Mine was anytime I parked in the sun. Living in NE Ohio that only happened on certain summer days.
 
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