Isn’t the 8 or the F the heat range ?
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Spark Plug Thread Stripped on Removal
- Thread starter countryguz
- Start date
tris
Cruisin' Guzzisti
IIRC with NGK the -9 at the end is the factory set gap 0.9mm
I received the 4.5" Back-Tap and over about 2 days played with it doing a little bit ever so slightly. With this 4.5" long tool it takes longer since the top of the shaft to the bottom of the plug well is exactly 4.5". Sort of similar to busting your knuckles by trying to access the knurl and the nut. BTW: I ordered a 5-3/8" tool made by Snap-On as a back up. The longer the better for tool control in the case of this bike, I don't know of other Guzzi's.
I did rent a bore scope to look at the thread damage and it was all the way down towards the bottom. But, I just worked at expanding the backtap slightly more and more each time and when I hit the sweet spot it felt just right when pulling it out and I got the very small shavings left on the grease. I put in a "used" plug and it went in easily by hand and removed easily as well just like the other plugs/holes. I took measurements and it seats the same depth as the other center plug on the right side.
I have new plugs on the way and I need to now check the valve clearances; the reason for this event. I now have two tools.
I did rent a bore scope to look at the thread damage and it was all the way down towards the bottom. But, I just worked at expanding the backtap slightly more and more each time and when I hit the sweet spot it felt just right when pulling it out and I got the very small shavings left on the grease. I put in a "used" plug and it went in easily by hand and removed easily as well just like the other plugs/holes. I took measurements and it seats the same depth as the other center plug on the right side.
I have new plugs on the way and I need to now check the valve clearances; the reason for this event. I now have two tools.
Well done. 
Thank you for sharing this ordeal. Could be a great learning experience for others in the future.
I measured the gaps on the old plugs i removed and they were all roughly .89 to .9mm. I assume these were the OEM from factory. The replacement plug gaps are supposed to be .6 to .7mm. I set all the new ones to about .65ish.
I did the valve adjustments. The intake were measured to be .18, .20, .23mm roughly. The exhaust were .28 roughly. So, I made them spec. .15mm for intake and .20mm exhaust as per the specs under the seat. I think these were from factory is my guess??? Don’t know for sure. Anyway, once the new air filter comes in I can test ride. The filter was OEM from factory (date stamp June 2013).
Just an update: I have about 600 miles on the new plugs; valve adjustments; new air filter and it runs much smoother now. I have to wonder why the plugs and valves were so much out of spec unless someone before me made incorrect adjustments, if at all. I cannot imagine they came out of the factory that way, but who knows. I notice the smoother idle consistency around 1250 RPM plus/minus instead of a slightly higher RPM vibration. Might be my imagination but I think there is less heat off the exhaust pipes especially the left one. Anyway onward and upward as I passed 10000 miles after getting the bike a year ago with 2080 miles.