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Stepper motor repaired. Triangle of death gone bye bye.

Scott,

Bike Developments Inc. UK I had to buy the 2 harness adapters to get the gaskets. No one sells the gaskets only. I looked everywhere on this earth. Oh yeh and the two adapters with rubber gaskets cost me $253.53US including shipping. Good times....


OMG Adam….

Scream at the top of your lungs, “Rape!!!”

I thought you found a “seal only” source which I have looked for too but my solution thus far is much better than that one. I think you will agree and I sincerely apologize for the indigestion and nausea that I’m about to inflict upon you Adam. Truly.)
-————

Well..

No need to search the Earth, just Molex. :)

Ask and ye shall receive! (Or more preferred: Send Scott a PHOTO!)

What you want can be had for $11.

It’s part of a Molex 64319-1218 automotive connector. (Yes, this is a 32 pin Molex vs 38 pin on our motorcycles but the seal is the same because the connector dimensions are the same for all 64319 type Molex connectors.)

1. Buy a new connector, slide lovely blue gasket ring off.

2. Slide newly acquired lovely blue gasket ring onto your ECU connector and reinstall back onto your ECU.

Sit back and smile, satisfied that you fixed it yourself cheap.

Then, send Scott money for a lovely tasty adult beverage!

tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=64319-1218&mfgShortname=MOL&utm=ga-shop1&channel=ppc&source=google&campaigns=tti-products&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4b2MBhD2ARIsAIrcB-RibPEe7OvaXVnYBQ3MCr65nLzr1TPucJ6dRbaHW4Al0KBZbKFaZ34aAt69EALw_wcB

C84EF34A-337F-4D48-86C7-AA9E04B8F251.webp

NOTE: [PROBABLY SHOULD BE A STICKY POST ON ITS OWN FOR THIS GASKET. ]
 
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I checked with bike no kiss before bang developments and they no longer sell the 5AW adapters. Oh did I tell you all that they sent a set of 20 Molex 18-24 AWG micro connectors with the mirelli adapters as well.....
 
And Kay Jay I have 5 words for you sir. Should of bought a Griso. Lol. Hang in there, once these bikes are setup, tuned, and sealed proper, they can become lifelong runners. I'm cracking 60,000 miles this year.
 
Just keeping it light Scott. We have all been there right? I'll tell you what though, I think I'm a much better mechanic after owning an 8v but without the forum and fellas like yourself bankruptcy could occur without a decent job. No way could I make anything work with a labor cost for repairs and maintenance on my machine. Particularly in the first 20,000 miles.
 
Hey Gu
Just keeping it light Scott. We have all been there right? I'll tell you what though, I think I'm a much better mechanic after owning an 8v but without the forum and fellas like yourself bankruptcy could occur without a decent job. No way could I make anything work with a labor cost for repairs and maintenance on my machine. Particularly in the first 20,000 miles.

Thanks so much guys!!

Adam, I read your message but for some reason there was no reply button at the bottom of the message so I'll reply here. THANKS SO MUCH for the offer and I'll let you know if I need anything else. I'll keep in touch. Since we are only a couple of hours apart we should meet somewhere and go for a nice long ride someday. Maybe around Lake "O" or something. I'll give you a shout next time I head out that way.

Scott, can't thank you enough for your help again! It's doubtful but I may find time to pull just the airbox tomorrow to gain access to the stepper. I'll yank the plug off the stepper and check continuity at the ecu again before pulling the tank. Also, with the stepper removed I can check the coils/windings. Correct me if I'm wrong but knowing a bit about electronics I should be able to find continuity through the coils but not from 1 coil to the other. I should find no continuity between either coil and the metal case correct?? I'll give the stepper another good shot of carb cleaner once removed (I did run an awful lot of the WD 40 brand carb cleaner through it wile the bike was running to no avail) along with a shot of compressed air to dry things out. All that said I really hope your hunch is correct. I can't wait to take the old girl out to the lake again. I'll send a pic of my favorite spot at one of the locks on the lake. Absolutely gorgeous at sunset and all kinds of wildlife. (especially gators!)
 
Port Mayaca lock and dam on the east side of Lake Okeechobee. As soon as the old girl is up and running this is where we are headed....
 

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Scott,

I forgot to add that I will bu using good old fashion Gumout...
I rode that looping lake road once and there were bikes everywhere. Often times groups taking a break at different points along the levee surrounding Lake O. As I remember the pace of many riders was unlike anything I've ever experienced outside of closed tracks and circuit racing. It was a really great ride for sure. Started loop at Moorhaven I believe. The best area for me if I recall correctly, was NE along the citrus farm roads. Fresh pavement, hilly, twisty, and great visibility along corners. Has all the ridability I have described changed much around the lake KayJay?
 
I rode that looping lake road once and there were bikes everywhere. Often times groups taking a break at different points along the levee surrounding Lake O. As I remember the pace of many riders was unlike anything I've ever experienced outside of closed tracks and circuit racing. It was a really great ride for sure. Started loop at Moorhaven I believe. The best area for me if I recall correctly, was NE along the citrus farm roads. Fresh pavement, hilly, twisty, and great visibility along corners. Has all the ridability I have described changed much around the lake KayJay?
Hi Adam,
Not much in the way of elevation changes but there are some nice curves. NE part of loop is real nice. Like going back 100 years. All the parks on the levee are great places to take a break. Road is starting to show some ware and has some dips. Only drawback is if you get behind a sugar cane truck bouncing around you will need to have your visor down or you'll end up with a mouth full of sugar cane!
You may also want to check google maps street view for Martin Highway (roue 714). 2 lane canopy road and one of the most scenic roads in the state...
 
Well,
Looks like the old girl will have to wait until next week. Family comes first and I'll need to spend time with my folks. As soon as I get home and have some free time I'll get back to the stepper motor problem and post what I find.

Thanks again everyone!!
 
Hey KayJay!

I received that used stepper motor I told you about. I checked the continuity across the 4 pins to each other, and to the housing of the unit itself. Here is what I found which is what I expected given the wiring diagram.

For reference, the pins are in a straight line: * * * * Looking at them in the orientation in the photo below.

Let's call the leftmost pin 1, then 2, and 3, and 4. Therefore the 4 pins oriented like this * * * * becomes 1 2 3 4

IMG_6224.webp

The outer pins, 1 & 4 have continuity between themselves with about 50 Ohms resistance, but neither 1 or 4 have any continuity to 2 or 3 or the unit housing.

The inner pins, 2 & 3 have continuity between themselves with about 50 Ohms resistance, but neither 2 or 3 have any continuity to 1 or 4 or the unit housing.

When you remove the plug on your stepper motor on your motorcycle, your pins should read out the exact same.

Please let me know what you find and we can move forward from there.

Thanks!

Scott

P.S. Just for reference, here is a side view of the stepper motor.

IMG_6225.webp
 
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Hey KayJay!

I received that used stepper motor I told you about. I checked the continuity across the 4 pins to each other, and to the housing of the unit itself. Here is what I found which is what I expected given the wiring diagram.

For reference, the pins are in a straight line: * * * * Looking at them in the orientation in the photo below.

Let's call the leftmost pin 1, then 2, and 3, and 4. Therefore the 4 pins oriented like this * * * * becomes 1 2 3 4

View attachment 23604

The outer pins, 1 & 4 have continuity between themselves with about 50 Ohms resistance, but neither 1 or 4 have any continuity to 2 or 3 or the unit housing.

The inner pins, 2 & 3 have continuity between themselves with about 50 Ohms resistance, but neither 2 or 3 have any continuity to 1 or 4 or the unit housing.

When you remove the plug on your stepper motor on your motorcycle, your pins should read out the exact same.

Please let me know what you find and we can move forward from there.

Thanks!

Scott

P.S. Just for reference, here is a side view of the stepper motor.

View attachment 23605
God bless you Scott! That is exactly what I needed!!
One other question that just dawned on me; Will replacing the stepper interfere with the throttle setting? If so I will have to re-read the forums on setting/syncing the throttle bodies and get the necessary software/diagnostic tool. The only person around here that has the software and the know how to do it says they mess with the "sacred screw" when necessary and "it's just a throttle stop screw". Had problems getting it across to him that messing with that screw isn't necessary. Not a good sign...
 
God bless you Scott! That is exactly what I needed!!
One other question that just dawned on me; Will replacing the stepper interfere with the throttle setting? If so I will have to re-read the forums on setting/syncing the throttle bodies and get the necessary software/diagnostic tool. The only person around here that has the software and the know how to do it says they mess with the "sacred screw" when necessary and "it's just a throttle stop screw". Had problems getting it across to him that messing with that screw isn't necessary. Not a good sign...

Words to the wise. DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE WHO SAYS THAT TO COME WITHIN 10 FEET OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE.

PLEASE READ THIS EXPLANATION THAT I SPENT A GREAT DEAL OF TIME WRITING. YOU WILL THEN UNDERSTAND 100% WHY WHOEVER SAYS THAT, IS A COMPLETE IDIOT AND HAS NO IDEA WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT AND THAT THEIR IGNORANCE WILL MOST LIKELY RUIN YOUR MOTORCYCLE!

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/syncing-throttle-bodies-8v.9215/


If you end up having to swap the Stepper, you call me and I will guide you start to finish. We can even Skype so we can see and talk to each other.

You normally will not need to adjust anything as the whole basis of stepper motors is that they move precise and identical distances per unit of current.
 
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Yea!
I read it some time ago and I was aware of it before even talking to the guy. In fact, I was the one who brought it up when I inquired about his checking and assuring the throttle bodies were in sync. There may be room for argument on other issues but just about everyone who knows anything about CARC 8v bikes agrees, DON'T TOUCH THAT SCREW!

I'll take the time to go over all the forums on synchronizing the throttle bodies and setting the TPS. The diagnostic tool will go on the Christmas list and I'll do it myself. Anyway, I was up all night last night and should have gone straight to bed when I got home a while ago but had too much on my mind to sleep. I just now pulled the Stelvio's airbox and as expected there was an oily film on the bottom of the throttle bodies and at the very bottom of the airbox. I'm sure the same is in the stepper. The WD40 brand carb cleaner that I sprayed down the stepper (half a can with engine running) did nothing. Too tired to go any further tonight. If I get home at a reasonable hour tomorrow I'll pull the two T15 screws and yank the stepper motor. Thanks Scott!
 
Without going into technical talk…

WD40 carb cleaning products SUCK.

They use Acetone, Heptane, and Carbon Dioxide so as to be 50 State VOC compliant.

Heptane is a lousy solvent for carb cleaning.

Gumout, which I specifically stated, is made of Acetone, Toluene (a very powerful organic solvent) and Carbon Dioxide.

It’s the Toluene component that breaks down and removes oils, grease, grime, and silicon sprays.
 
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There may be room for argument on other issues but just about everyone who knows anything about CARC 8v bikes agrees, DON'T TOUCH THAT SCREW!

As a matter of principal, I will not offer assistance or advice to anyone here who messes with the welded up/painted shut, “sacred screw” on the throttle stop plate.

If someone wants to be supremely stupid, even after I have given complete information as to precisely why you don’t mess with it, then I don’t want any part of their madness.
 
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