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V100 Valve shims

Stella

Stella

Tuned and Synch'ed
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The valve shim size is 8.80mm diameter, same as Aprilia RSV4,just waiting to find out if the HotCams 8.90 shims will fit as they do in the Aprilia.
UPDATE : HotCams 8.90mm shims DO fit the V100
 
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Interested if you found out if the Hotcams kit fit the Mandello.
Thanks!
 
Just for a novice…what is the purpose of those thicker chims?
 
GTM® said:
revzilla.com/common-tread/why-do-bikes-use-shim-under-bucket-valve-adjusters
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Aha, not as strange as I was lead to think.
Thanks.
They just intentionally open the gap a tad to make it safer for the components when engine is pushed hard.
Oh well, I don’t know the available standard shim sizes but it’s essentially just a matter of intentional valve adjustment.
Sounds like these specific shims are in between standard dimensions.
 
If the Shims are too small, the gap is too big and the cam might wear in bad ways, and the bike won't run very well either. If the shim is too big, the valve might not close and then you will get a BURNT VALVE and it will require a new valve and a top end head job. Pricey fix. So this is really important and we need to make sure the valve clearances are within the specs for the correct valve. Intake on the tank side and exhaust away from the tank. The shop manual does cover it very well, but unlike some of the older air-cooled Guzzis, this is a tougher job and requires some special tools. Possible back yard mechanic job, but not an easy one.
 
Ziggy49 said:
Interested if you found out if the Hotcams kit fit the Mandello.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes, the HotCams 8.90mm shims fit the V100 but the kit only goes up to 2.60mm shims and my bikes shims are all in the 2.75-2.85 range so the HotCams kit is useless to me.check out my other post here to see how to swap shims WITHOUT removing the cams or front cover and not needing any special tools.
 
Thank you for that info. I also though cam removal was unnecessary after my first clearance check.
Do you have a link to your post on how to swap shims WITHOUT removing the cams or front cover and not needing any special tools?
Thanks!
 
Ziggy49 said:
Thank you for that info. I also though cam removal was unnecessary after my first clearance check.
Do you have a link to your post on how to swap shims WITHOUT removing the cams or front cover and not needing any special tools?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Hi, Ziggy,this is pretty straightforward, both spark plugs out, holes covered,transmission in 6th gear, position the piston at TDC on compression or just position the cam nose up away from the valve to be swapped, don’t be alarmed when you hear a “snap” when rotating the engine over, it’s just the cam peak going over centre on 2 of the valves because of cam chain slack with no oil pressure.Now the most important part, cut up some clean rags and all the frayed edges, pack EVERY cavity ,the cam chain galley and all around the valve spring retainer as if you’re doing open-heart surgery, (the forward intakes are by far the most challenging as you have to retrieve everything through a small hole in the top bridge )very carefully pop the E-clip off the end of the rocker shaft with a flat blade screwdriver and collect the flat shim washer behind the E-clip, if you’re not sure how to release the e-clip, find a YouTube video that shows the correct way to use a flat blade screwdriver to remove an e-clip, you don’t want to bend or damage the E-clips,now you can slide out the rocker shaft and remove the rocker arm, make sure the rocker arm goes back in its original position and not upside down, now you can retrieve the shim with a small head telescopic magnet.
I don’t advise installing the new shim with a magnet because it wants to stick to everything going back in and there’s a risk of dropping it, I use 60° tweezers and smear a thin layer of silicone or goop on the inside of the jaws to grip the shim, clean the new shim with brake clean, so it doesn’t slip out of the tweezers, install the new shim with the size markings down against the valve stem, once you get the new shim properly installed on top of the valve now you can just slide the rocker shaft back in through the rocker arm,shim washer and snap in the E-clip making sure it’s fully seated in the groove, when it’s correctly seated, you should be able to spin it around on the shaft.
Now, dab a little bit of fresh oil on the cam, lobe, rocker arm, and the shim, recheck your clearance and you’re good to go.
P.S.make sure you park the bike in 2nd gear or higher because once you stop the bike in first or neutral and shut it off, you won’t get it past first gear due to the automatic neutral finder feature
Cheers 🍻
 
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