• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 2022 stone oil leak leftisde airbox hose

tonystark77

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 8, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Romania
In February this year I bought my first motorcycle a moto guzzi v7 stone 2022 853cc model. At around 200km I kept experiencing engine oil leak. After further investigation I spotted the leak is coming from this hose which I think it's connected to the airbox component of the bike. I don't think this is normal. The service that I took it multiple times they weren't able to fix it. After the 1000km first service mark I am now at half of the level of oil indicated by the side glass. Bike has 3780km. This happens super randomly, sometimes it doesn't leak a dime sometimes it poors some drops if I start the bike and just put the finger at the tip of the hose.
By further reverse engineering this and by looking at this; parts-motoguzzi.com/moto-guzzi-motorcycles/850-MOTO-GUZZI-MOTORCYCLES/V7/2022/V7-Stone-850-Euro-5-ABS/ENGINE/AIR-BOX/1515/14/5402/3047 I think I'm missing one 15 and 16 part which is like a cork with a collier I think it's called to keep it there.

Much like how is the right one in the pic transparent one. If order something like this would it make the leak stop ? By looking at the picture even if I plug the hose. It's normal to leak this much oil?

Yes, I checked the airbox chamber by removing the filter and it's super clean no drops of oil so I don't think is an overfill.

Any thoughts? My dealer is 350,400km a way but I'm hesitant plus after some experience with the last closest authorized service I'm afraid I'll pay the truck and they'll not be able to fix it or IDK worse.
Plus on this new bike it is normal to not have paint on the frame? Cuz I have some places around some bolts which by looking at it either I'm missing the finish or paint. Look at the prime bolt under the finger for example.
Should I call them and ask for my money back ? Or should I order some missing parts like the cork and a collier and try to replace it?

1652189081197
 
Last edited:
Much like how is the right one in the pic transparent one. If order something like this would it make the leak stop ? By looking at the picture even if I plug the hose. It's normal to leak this much oil?
Yes, I checked the airbox chamber by removing the filter and it's super clean no drops of oil so I don't think is an overfill.
Question, do you understand how an engine crankcase MUST be allowed to "breathe" to rid of pressure? In doing do, it will emit oil vapors (vapours to you I suppose ;) ). This is absolutely normal/usual. Guzzi somewhat wisen'ed up and added a filtered chamber to the air box to port to, to house #4 as shown below. Yes, there should be a clear cap (AP8161054 - also shown below) and clamp connected that port on the air box. They owe you that.

If you've read at all here (which it sounds like you may have), run the oil towards the lower add mark. Never above halfway between the lines. The upper mark = overfilled!

This website is not supported (at all) by Piaggio/Guzzi, so please respect all those who reply here. Site donations appreciated.

V7E5 AirBoxDiag

1652193124385
 
Is your dealer based on the Moon at 350,400km,
It isn't that funny. I'm here crying my "oil" out.
If you've read at all here (which it sounds like you may have), run the oil towards the lower add mark. Never above halfway between the lines. The upper mark = overfilled!
So this means if I put the cap and the clam and have the desired oil level I shouldn't have any more problems. But what if I see oil in the transparent cap? Should I periodically remove the cap and let it drain and put it back again? Why isn't this procedure not even mentioned in the User+Maintenance book?
 
Calm yourself please.

1. All engine crankcases generate internal pressure from the pistons moving in and out of the cylinders. Just like pressure is built up in the cylinder head during the compression stroke, the exact opposite occurs in the engine case during the downstroke of the piston. This pressure must be allowed to escape. This is the purpose of the vent line.

2. The vent line is routed to the air box so that these oil and fuel saturated fumes, don’t just get dumped into the atmosphere. By routing the vent line to the air box, the fumes get pulled into the intake tract of the engine, and burned up during combustion.

3. The oil level in the engine is absolutely fine ANYWHERE between the MAXIMUM and MINIMUM marks on the dipstick.

4. By “chasing” the MAXIMUM mark, you increase exponentially, the odds that splashing will occur nearby the vent line inside of the crankcase, and oil will inadvertently get sucked up that line and deposited into the air box. This is where the little pools of oil come from.

5. This pool of oil is not a good thing. It gets into places and things it should not. We want to prevent this whenever possible.

6. By keeping your oil between the MINIMUM mark on your dipstick and no higher than halfway the distance between the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM marks, you will dramatically reduce or even eliminate any oil being sucked up in the vent line and being deposited in the air box. This is STEP 1 to reducing this issue.

7. The air box has the clear tubing cap and a retaining clip on it, for 2 reasons. FIRST, it prevents air/water/dirt/dust or anything else from being sucked into your air box. If you don’t have this on your air box, get it right away and replace it immediately. SECOND it is a clear cap so the mechanic can see if oil has been sucked into the air box as the oil will pool in the bottom of this clear plug.

8. The reason it is not in any documentation is because it’s not a procedure that the motorcycle owner/operator would need to be concerned with. The manufacturer always assumes that riders do not do their own repairs and maintenance and they promote going to the dealers so that dealers can make a living and stay in business. This is also why Service Manuals do not have “Step by step” instructions. They are written as a reference book only, designed for professional mechanics who know what they are doing. Their intended audience is not nor will it ever be, the “home mechanic”. No reason to get mad. This is the reality.

The reason there are not more Moto Guzzi dealers is because Moto Guzzi is a boutique brand, producing less than 10,000 units per year for the whole world! Then every owner thinks the dealer is somehow cheating them and they don’t support the dealer by servicing their motorcycles with them, and the dealer starves and closes their doors. When there are limited Moto Guzzi motorcycles running around, and everybody that has one, fancies themselves a mechanic simply because they can hold a screwdriver and watch YouIdiotTube videos, and they don’t buy professional service from their local dealer, the dealers fold and nobody is willing to invest in opening a new one. This is the cost of people not supporting their local Moto Guzzi dealer!

So, get the cap and clamp on your air box, replaced immediately. Get your oil level no higher than the midpoint between the level marks in the dipstick. Wipe any oil out of your air box and make sure it is clean inside. (Normal rubbing alcohol on a rag works great for this.).

Then just relax and enjoy your motorcycle.

I hope you appreciate the amount of time it took to type this into my phone with one finger! :D 👍 😀
 
Last edited:
As for the oil in the airbox drain tube, dispose of it properly. If it has accumulated there was too much oil in the crankcase.
 
Calm yourself please.

1. All engine crankcases generate internal pressure from the pistons moving in and out of the cylinders. Just like pressure is built up in the cylinder head during the compression stroke, the exact opposite occurs in the engine case during the downstroke of the piston. This pressure must be allowed to escape. This is the purpose of the vent line.

2. The vent line is routed to the air box so that these oil and fuel saturated fumes, don’t just get dumped into the atmosphere. By routing the vent line to the air box, the fumes get pulled into the intake tract of the engine, and burned up during combustion.

3. The oil level in the engine is absolutely fine ANYWHERE between the MAXIMUM and MINIMUM marks on the dipstick.

4. By “chasing” the MAXIMUM mark, you increase exponentially, the odds that splashing will occur nearby the vent line inside of the crankcase, and oil will inadvertently get sucked up that line and deposited into the air box. This is where the little pools of oil come from.

5. This pool of oil is not a good thing. It gets into places and things it should not. We want to prevent this whenever possible.

6. By keeping your oil between the MINIMUM mark on your dipstick and no higher than halfway the distance between the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM marks, you will dramatically reduce or even eliminate any oil being sucked up in the vent line and being deposited in the air box. This is STEP 1 to reducing this issue.

7. The air box has the clear tubing cap and a retaining clip on it, for 2 reasons. FIRST, it prevents air/water/dirt/dust or anything else from being sucked into your air box. If you don’t have this on your air box, get it right away and replace it immediately. SECOND it is a clear cap so the mechanic can see if oil has been sucked into the air box as the oil will pool in the bottom of this clear plug.

8. The reason it is not in any documentation is because it’s not a procedure that the motorcycle owner/operator would need to be concerned with. The manufacturer always assumes that riders do not do their own repairs and maintenance and they promote going to the dealers so that dealers can make a living and stay in business. This is also why Service Manuals do not have “Step by step” instructions. They are written as a reference book only, designed for professional mechanics who know what they are doing. Their intended audience is not nor will it ever be, the “home mechanic”. No reason to get mad. This is the reality.

The reason there are not more Moto Guzzi dealers is because Moto Guzzi is a boutique brand, producing less than 10,000 units per year for the whole world! Then every owner thinks the dealer is somehow cheating them and they don’t support the dealer by servicing their motorcycles with them, and the dealer starves and closes their doors. When there are limited Moto Guzzi motorcycles running around, and everybody that has one, fancies themselves a mechanic simply because they can hold a screwdriver and watch YouIdiotTube videos, and they don’t buy professional service from their local dealer, the dealers fold and nobody is willing to invest in opening a new one. This is the cost of people not supporting their local Moto Guzzi dealer!

So, get the cap and clamp on your air box, replaced immediately. Get your oil level no higher than the midpoint between the level marks in the dipstick. Wipe any oil out of your air box and make sure it is clean inside. (Normal rubbing alcohol on a rag works great for this.).

Then just relax and enjoy your motorcycle.

I hope you appreciate the amount of time it took to type this into my phone with one finger! :D 👍 😀
Thank you for all the well written explanation. I talked with the dealer and he's happy to add all the missing parts and all the further verifications. I really appreciate you time and effort for writing things. Bless you !
 
Before sending the bike to the dealer I went up to the gas station with it to fill up some gas. In the middle of traffic when I was in 1st gear and I pulled and released the clutch slowly for a couple of seconds it pointed out on the dash Alarm Oil Pressure and the engine stalled. I closed with the key and restarted my engine and everything seem to work fine. After the fillup I just went straight back to the garage. Should I be worried? It was on the dash for 2,3 seconds and then it disappeared.
 
Impossible to diagnose or tell.

The oil could be the incorrect viscosity and it gets hot an behaves like it’s a light weight oil. The oil filter could be a terrible cheap aftermarket. There could be a oil pump problem. It could be virtually anything or it could be a transitory error from some reason.

The best advice is to verify oil at the correct level, (no more than halfway between the minimum and maximum lines, and then ride it and monitor it closely.
 
Back
Top